Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums - View Single Post - Anyone else running a magnetic drain plug?

FBRR · 09-13-2008

"LOL You're kidding me!!! Never heard of that one! Gotta agree with you there, can't see that being of much benefit!"
Actually a neo magnet stuck anywhere on the filter will catch metal. The semi-circle design of the $35 dollar filter is better ( more area ) but even a small magnet ( neo ) is strong enough to remove metal.

Several things to consider.
Depending on the filter and it's " ability" to filter a certain size particle( 10 micron vs 30 micron ) and the "PERCENTAGE" of said size! That is all filters are rated, as an example 75% of a 30 micron particle and 50% of a 10 micron particle. Some filters are up in the range of 98% for 30 micron and 90% for the 10 micron.
It is very important for engine durablity to KNOW what any given filter is rated. ( Not all filters are rated equal )

Secondly, and what many folks do not pay attention to, is those "holes" that the oil uses to flow into the filter!! When the engine is shut off, those holes have the potential to "backflow" into the sump!! Again not all filters have the same design in the SEAL of those intake holes. Several filters are much better than others in regards to both material and design of the seal.
The point of this sealing effect is at shutdown, any material, both metal and/or non-ferious debris will backflush into the sump. It then has the potential to be injested into rings and bearing at start up BEFORE returning to the filter.

My point is also twoflod. A drain magnet ( being the lowest point int the sump. An assumption not true of every design, but close enough ) can and does have the first shot at garthering in the ferious metal before the engine is started! The second part of this fact is, YOU SHOULD pay far more attention to WHICH filter you use, even BEFORE worring about the magnets.
Many filters that "ADVERTISE" heavily are really junk. It is very easy to search several different forums to find the best. Both the Ducati, Sport Touring, and ZG/GTR forums have had folks that are very knowledgable cut apart and also gather manufacturers specs on different filters.

If you want the "cliff notes" version. The Purolator PURE ONE ( PURE ONE is a specific filter not a gerenric Purolator filter ) the the Mobil 1 filter ( and the Mobil 1 filter is made by a manufacturer that makes it for several other "brands", none of which I can remember right now!!I'm an old coote)
Both have the best material and design to prevent flowback on engine shut down. Both also have the best filter material and very importantly the best FILTER bonding material at the endcap of the filter. The only difference between the Mobil 1 and Pure ONE is the AMOUNT of filter material volume present. While that may seem like a larger issue, unless you are saturating the filter element, the amount of material is a lesser design criteria. The reason I say that is, if you are changing your filter every 3 to 5,000 miles you will never be close to the saturation point of the volume.

I am in engine design but I am not an oil or filter emgineer ( I just play one on TV). But as an engine engineer I am acutely aware of how important removing all material from the oil film can be to durablity.

Again, I now this is a long rant, but changing your oil early and often will extend engine life. My typical oil change interval is at 90miles after the initial break-in ( rolling on and off the throttle and varying load for the first 90 miles), then again at 600 miles ( to clean the rest of the build material and break in wear material) and again at 1200/1500 miles to get the rest of the break-in wear materail out. I then change at 3000 miles and every 3000 thereafter. Those first oil changes meana great deal to engine life.
Sorry for the long rant and threadJACK.

09-13-2008	#26 (permalink)
FBRR Still On The Kickstand BTK Beginner Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 44	"LOL You're kidding me!!! Never heard of that one! Gotta agree with you there, can't see that being of much benefit!" Actually a neo magnet stuck anywhere on the filter will catch metal. The semi-circle design of the $35 dollar filter is better ( more area ) but even a small magnet ( neo ) is strong enough to remove metal. Several things to consider. Depending on the filter and it's " ability" to filter a certain size particle( 10 micron vs 30 micron ) and the "PERCENTAGE" of said size! That is all filters are rated, as an example 75% of a 30 micron particle and 50% of a 10 micron particle. Some filters are up in the range of 98% for 30 micron and 90% for the 10 micron. It is very important for engine durablity to KNOW what any given filter is rated. ( Not all filters are rated equal ) Secondly, and what many folks do not pay attention to, is those "holes" that the oil uses to flow into the filter!! When the engine is shut off, those holes have the potential to "backflow" into the sump!! Again not all filters have the same design in the SEAL of those intake holes. Several filters are much better than others in regards to both material and design of the seal. The point of this sealing effect is at shutdown, any material, both metal and/or non-ferious debris will backflush into the sump. It then has the potential to be injested into rings and bearing at start up BEFORE returning to the filter. My point is also twoflod. A drain magnet ( being the lowest point int the sump. An assumption not true of every design, but close enough ) can and does have the first shot at garthering in the ferious metal before the engine is started! The second part of this fact is, YOU SHOULD pay far more attention to WHICH filter you use, even BEFORE worring about the magnets. Many filters that "ADVERTISE" heavily are really junk. It is very easy to search several different forums to find the best. Both the Ducati, Sport Touring, and ZG/GTR forums have had folks that are very knowledgable cut apart and also gather manufacturers specs on different filters. If you want the "cliff notes" version. The Purolator PURE ONE ( PURE ONE is a specific filter not a gerenric Purolator filter ) the the Mobil 1 filter ( and the Mobil 1 filter is made by a manufacturer that makes it for several other "brands", none of which I can remember right now!!I'm an old coote) Both have the best material and design to prevent flowback on engine shut down. Both also have the best filter material and very importantly the best FILTER bonding material at the endcap of the filter. The only difference between the Mobil 1 and Pure ONE is the AMOUNT of filter material volume present. While that may seem like a larger issue, unless you are saturating the filter element, the amount of material is a lesser design criteria. The reason I say that is, if you are changing your filter every 3 to 5,000 miles you will never be close to the saturation point of the volume. I am in engine design but I am not an oil or filter emgineer ( I just play one on TV). But as an engine engineer I am acutely aware of how important removing all material from the oil film can be to durablity. Again, I now this is a long rant, but changing your oil early and often will extend engine life. My typical oil change interval is at 90miles after the initial break-in ( rolling on and off the throttle and varying load for the first 90 miles), then again at 600 miles ( to clean the rest of the build material and break in wear material) and again at 1200/1500 miles to get the rest of the break-in wear materail out. I then change at 3000 miles and every 3000 thereafter. Those first oil changes meana great deal to engine life. Sorry for the long rant and threadJACK.