Update, now she won't fire up easily and runs on two with a bit of a push.
I was hoping it was an easy fault that someone else had but I see it's a bit of a problem on these bikes with different solutions to each, (GPz 1000A RX)but I'll take it to the beginning and let you all know what turns out to be the problem.
I was a mechanic years ago but interests are way beyond that these days. I'd hoped I'd bought this machine knowing it has been rebuilt and only covered 200 miles in four years, with over £2000 spent on her, (after me going through the parts receipts properly today), and would ride like new. (Just my luck!!)
She has also had the icing of the carbs cured with an adation unit made by the previous owner to ferry heat from the engine to stop cold air hitting the carbs. A brilliant and simple invention. because of this, even tho' I was in cold weather last night taking her home, I knew it was not the carbs icing up that caused her to start missing and coughing.
I will do it all in this order till I cure the problem, but all will be done to make sure.
1. All spark plugs sparking, correct blue and no weak or orange spark. No leaking HT leads. Plugs not fouled or lean mixture etc. Both coils primary windings and secondary windings resistance readings - any difference or deviation from manufature spec then I will by new ones.
2. Pulsar coils next, ohms x 100 scale test on black/white and blue wire terminals. if your reading this and you have black/yellow wires do the same test. if I find a low resistance this will tell me a short circuit is in the wires and again a high resistance will tell me the same, as in an open circuit, where the wires will be trapped or damaged. if resistance is not within Man Spec. then I will replace with a new set and set the pulser coil air gap, to man Spec's.
3. lastly on the ignition side I will check the entire IC Ignitor unit which takes some time but has to be done to eliminate any problems. waiting on Kawasaki sending me the (K ohms) values for the IC unless someone has a haynes manual for the 1000A engine model and can post me the diagram and readings. (If they are in the manual).
Only after all this is done can I go near the carbs and possible problems of mis-firing and eratic running. Some might just do the carbs and find the fault was there but you need all ignition to be 100% before you can check and set the carbs.
I will take a day or two to do the above so will post back as i work through the problem.
The only thing not on the receipts are new HT leads, coils or pulsar's so i will be pleased if this is all that she done to me to peev me off.
The entire engine and gearbox has been rebuilt and all I can say is that in the few hours I had her on the motorway taking her home before she broke down was without swearing very scary!! (Incase any police are reading this I was on a private streach of road when i did this next power test, so leave me alone).
5200 rpm at 100 mph in 6th gear, took her to 6000 revs and from 6-9000 she had gone up to 150 mph, and remember, This girl has no fairing and straight bars!! That was enough for me. Back to public motorway and came home till she broke down at 70 mph at 3700/4000 rpm in top gear.
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