Needing Carburetor Settings Please

[klf300c4x4]

The problem is that the mule starts well but when i try to increase power the cab chokes it's self Can anyone help,, I have an old klf300c 4x4 (1991) and have stripped the cab down and cleaned it and its all in good condition etc,, but i don't know the setting for ALL the jets, float hight etc,, can someone give me it in simple terms, ie one quarter, three quaters etc for settings.

Regards Gordon

[RCW]

Which model is the Mule?

The jets on the 300 are not adjustable, the air bleed for the pilot circuit is adjustable and should be set at around 1.5-2.5 turns from lightly bottomed. That is the screw on the very bottom of the carburetor, just ahead of the float bowl. Once you set it you will need to start the engine and reset it to the best idle.

There is an external idle adjustment with the big wheel on the cable that is bent around the carb for access. No easy answer for that one, as it should be set so the idle is between 750 and 1,000 rpm, and you have to do that by trial and error. The idle speed is dependent on altitude, and is set slow enough that the clutch easily disengages when at idle.

As you adjust the running idle with the air bleed the idle will speed up as it finds the best mixture, so then you will need to back down the idle speed screw (the big wheel) until you get it slow enough that it comfortably releases the clutch and still runs good where you live.

The only other screw that looks like it may be an adjustment is the float bowl drain screw, and that should be set to just snug enough that it will not back out from vibration.

As for the float, it should not be necessary to reset it unless you bent the float lever. If you did, it is set with a gauge that only comes with a new float and float valve kit, or by using a transparent fuel tube attached to the drain on the bottom of the carb float bowl and holding it up so the fuel level is a good solid two mm below the bottom of the union of the float bowl to the carburetor body. This latter method is a trial and error approach and takes several times to disassemble the bowl to reset the lever.

[JB1956]

Originally Posted by klf300c4x4

The problem is that the mule starts well but when i try to increase power the cab chokes it's self Can anyone help,, I have an old klf300c 4x4 (1991) and have stripped the cab down and cleaned it and its all in good condition etc,, but i don't know the setting for ALL the jets, float hight etc,, can someone give me it in simple terms, ie one quarter, three quaters etc for settings.

Regards Gordon

Hi I have the same problem on my 1991 300 bayou it starts and idies like a dream but give it gas and chokes and backfires and dies I don't think it is the carb because I have cleaned and rebuilt it and I have seen this problem posted many times but I have not seen a remedy I sure hope someone who has figured this out will share answer.Maybe electical? John

[zeek123]

hey guys there is a guy on the canadien web site that has the carb broke down point by point telling you how to clean and set the carb hope thats a help

[JB1956]

Thanks for the tip,but I am not familiar with the canadian site. can you direct me to it? thanks again John

[86klf300guy]

i found on my 86 bayou 300 same issues etc found the rubber intake boot and oring that is part of the intake were junk.replace it and life is good.no issues so far xcept the routine cleanin of that darn kiehin.i have the carb boiled everytime by my machine shop and reset everything back up.

hint use carb cleaner to find vacuum leak on the intake system.also may want to check the gas filter in the tank and the fuel valve for crud build up .
take the 2 bigger screw off the fuel valve at the tank and remove the valve.there youll find a cylinder type filter and i bet its plugged up a little bit,then take the 2 tiny screws off the valve and open it up and ther be crud built up there also.what good is a carb clean if you dont clean the source?my dad allways says lol.....hope this be sum help guys -corey-

[JB1956]

Thanks Cory I have cleaned and rebuilt petcock and carb,but have not checked the boot will try in morning and see if that is the problem. I me hope that does it because this is driving crazy.I'll let you know. John

[JB1956]

OK I have removed the carb and inspected the intake boot it looks good no holes,tears,ect o-rings look ok also cleaned everything and re-installed.It fired right up and idles strong but give it gas and it backfires through carb so hard that it almost blows the air box lid off.Any ideas? John

[86klf300guy]

have you tries to spray carb cleaner around the intake while running to see if the rpms change at all.mine did the same thing and it had a air leak at the carb and choke plundger oring.

also to lean on fuel will cause this try taking the air screw out 1/4 turn at a time and see if thatll help out-corey- oh yeah have you put a new ngk plug in your machine yet and if so is it gapped correctly and givin a good blue spark?

[JB1956]

I should have mentioned that I sprayed carb cleaner with no change also choke plunger is new and so is the o-ring I have the air screw at 2 turns but have tried from 1.5 to 2.5 The old plug has a lot of carbon on it I put a new ngk but am not sure what the gap is I ordered a book but its not here yet.still scratching my head John

[86klf300guy]

do you have the air box and air filter attached?0.35 th on the plug down to 0.27.and i assuming valve lash is correct. you said the plug had carbon on it makes me wonder if your vlaves are carboned up and not seating properly.

get your bike warmed up and use carb cleaner through the carb while runnin and hold the rpms up so it doesnt stall out.this will knock off the carbon on the vlaves and piston and may stop that popin etc.give that a try and keep us posted -corey-

[JB1956]

I put the new plug in and cleaned all electric connections with contact spray.It did not backfire but choked when given gas then slowly but surely it kept getting better until it ran strong.Must have carbon built up I just test drove it and ran GREAT thanks for all the advise I hope it stays this way JOHN

[86klf300guy]

cool glad to hear you got her back up and running .get sum seafoam and follow the instructions for adding it to you fuel tank to help you out in removeing them carbon deposits on the vavles etc .keep us posted on how its goin -corey-

[JB1956]

Hi Corey I spoke to soon I think it ran good because of the new plug.I am starting to lean toward electric prob the spark just is not a good blue one. more of a orange and alittle blue. I checked the coil and is in specs.it is mind blowing, Thanks for your help got any ideas pass them along i am willing to try anything at this point. I was just going through some of your previous post seems like this is kinda common and hard to solve. Contiuing to scratch my head John

[86klf300guy]

could be the spark plug wire is breakkin down.what year is your machine again im sorry.the older the bike gets the spark plug wire does also corbon track on the elements etc.see if your wire is replace able and try that.


is the bike not runnin good nemore ?-corey-

[JB1956]

Hi now that it fowled another plug its back to running bad again it is a1991 but has few hours on it I checked the compresion and it is 150 I will check plug wire and look over the other wireing as well thanks for the tips will let you know what happens John

[86klf300guy]

comp is ok but hows the air fuel mix by the sounds of it you may be runnin a taste to rich in fuel if its foulin it out quickly.may want to check the air screw 1-1/2 to 2 turns out from seat is a good starting point.also make sure your choke plundger is operateing correctly and not hangin up in the bore etc- -corey-

[JB1956]

I just wanted to let you know it is a bad CDI thanks for all the advise John

[86klf300guy]

oh man darn cdi ! did you replace the cdi yet?if so does it make a big improvement on the fouling of the spark plug?

[JB1956]

I have not replaced it yet it will be about a week i will let you know John