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Old 10-01-2009   #1 (permalink)
MrGiggles
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Default Bayou 220 Ring Replace/Teardown.

My Bayou has been consuming oil pretty bad and has gotten to the point where oil was coming out of the tail pipe, meaning I had to do something. I was originally just going to change the head gasket, but have decided to change the rings too. I have torn it down, and taken pics of the process. I'm waiting on the rings to get here now.

Something was up.


Before


A half hour later


Pics of the Cylinder/Head






I did pull the jug off, and everything looked good. No scoring or broken rings.
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Old 10-02-2009   #2 (permalink)
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i see yoo finally tore into it huh.....if it were me id have the jug checked by a machine shop to make sure its not tapered or out of round.if that is ok then have it measured to make sure your jug is not allready been boreed out so you get the correct rings.

and if its not over sized etc id still have the jug honed so the new rings will seat properly.also make sure you index theh rings correctly and (end gap them) so they have the correct gap for expansion and contraction.

if you happen to take it to a machine shop and they say it needs bored say 10 over then youll have to cancel the ring order and order a wiseco piston kit that comes with new rist pin and clips piston and piston rings.

are you doing the valves seat and guides also?if so make sure you relap the valves when you pull em out ,this will save you alot of headaches down the road.as my dad allways says if its worth doin it worth doin it right the first time to save you heart aches down the road.plus you get the satisfaction of knowin that you will not ahve any problms for like 5 - 10 years if you take care of it and not red line it alot

keep us posted with pics mr gigles on the rebuild good luck and if you have any questions we will be here to lean on lol-corey-
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Old 10-02-2009   #3 (permalink)
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i see yoo finally tore into it huh.....if it were me id have the jug checked by a machine shop to make sure its not tapered or out of round.if that is ok then have it measured to make sure your jug is not allready been boreed out so you get the correct rings.

and if its not over sized etc id still have the jug honed so the new rings will seat properly.also make sure you index theh rings correctly and (end gap them) so they have the correct gap for expansion and contraction.

if you happen to take it to a machine shop and they say it needs bored say 10 over then youll have to cancel the ring order and order a wiseco piston kit that comes with new rist pin and clips piston and piston rings.

are you doing the valves seat and guides also?if so make sure you relap the valves when you pull em out ,this will save you alot of headaches down the road.as my dad allways says if its worth doin it worth doin it right the first time to save you heart aches down the road.plus you get the satisfaction of knowin that you will not ahve any problms for like 5 - 10 years if you take care of it and not red line it alot

keep us posted with pics mr gigles on the rebuild good luck and if you have any questions we will be here to lean on lol-corey-
I don't have any machine shop near me so unfortunately so I have to do everything myself lol. I have a hone and plan on using it.

Just the seals, I don't have the parts nor money to replace them. How hard are the valves to take out? Can a get by with a screwdriver like a Briggs engine?
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Old 10-02-2009   #4 (permalink)
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iv used vise grips to push the outer ring down to remove the keepers.

what kinda hone do you have a ball hone or a flat stone?i rec the ball hone style for this operation.but that will not help if that cylinder is out of round or tapered.if you have a dial indicator with a rollore on the end of it and its mounted to a rod you can check that your self.but its best left to a shop.

i just worry you put your new rings and gaskets on it and it will all be for nothin.cause it will not seal up.then your back to square 1 and out more $$$$$$$ cause youll have to then do this way.i know money tight brother i have a mojave that needs a new piston and rings now.and it is waitin for me to get all the parts.i bye piece by piece then when i have em all it goes back together right.
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Old 10-03-2009   #5 (permalink)
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iv used vise grips to push the outer ring down to remove the keepers.

what kinda hone do you have a ball hone or a flat stone?i rec the ball hone style for this operation.but that will not help if that cylinder is out of round or tapered.if you have a dial indicator with a rollore on the end of it and its mounted to a rod you can check that your self.but its best left to a shop.

i just worry you put your new rings and gaskets on it and it will all be for nothin.cause it will not seal up.then your back to square 1 and out more $$$$$$$ cause youll have to then do this way.i know money tight brother i have a mojave that needs a new piston and rings now.and it is waitin for me to get all the parts.i bye piece by piece then when i have em all it goes back together right.
I will give that a shot.

It has flat stones. There is a local Amish guy who repairs small engines, I will bring it to him and see if he can help me out.

If my rings come today then I will try and get pics of the piston and rings on it.
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Old 10-03-2009   #6 (permalink)
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Is there some song or dance that I can do to get that darn cam gear off?
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Old 10-03-2009   #7 (permalink)
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just unbolt it and give it a little tap with a rubber hammer
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Old 10-03-2009   #8 (permalink)
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just unbolt it and give it a little tap with a rubber hammer
I'm trying to figure out a good way to hold the sprocket while I get the bolt out. A screwdriver didn't work.
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Old 10-03-2009   #9 (permalink)
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impact gun
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Old 10-03-2009   #10 (permalink)
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put a small rope or something in were the pistion is and let the pistion bind up on it and than give the bolt a good snap with a impact gun
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Old 10-03-2009   #11 (permalink)
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put a small rope or something in were the pistion is and let the pistion bind up on it and than give the bolt a good snap with a impact gun
The head's already off the engine, as is the cylinder. I don't really want to put it back together again.
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Old 10-03-2009   #12 (permalink)
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ummm try holding it with a pair of visegrips but dont put them on to tight and than try taking the bolt off
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Old 10-03-2009   #13 (permalink)
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I will give that a shot.

It has flat stones. There is a local Amish guy who repairs small engines, I will bring it to him and see if he can help me out.

If my rings come today then I will try and get pics of the piston and rings on it.
that would be a good thing he can guide you through it and check it over for you
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Old 10-03-2009   #14 (permalink)
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for tat cam bolt use an impact gun and if it will not budge still get a propane torch out and heat that bolt up just a little to free up the loc tite and then just hold the gear with a wedge of wood and use the impact gun to free it and i think that bolt is a lefty not a right,so righty lossy lefty tighty.not righty tighty lefty lossy lol-corey- d-_-b
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Old 10-04-2009   #15 (permalink)
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for tat cam bolt use an impact gun and if it will not budge still get a propane torch out and heat that bolt up just a little to free up the loc tite and then just hold the gear with a wedge of wood and use the impact gun to free it and i think that bolt is a lefty not a right,so righty lossy lefty tighty.not righty tighty lefty lossy lol-corey- d-_-b
I'm just going to leave the head the way it is. I really don't want to spend the extra money on a special tool and risk breaking something. I can deal with a little smoke at startup with a bad valve seal.

I did notice on the head that there are two jagged holes on each side behind the cam gear. I'm guess they're there for oil to run back down to the engine, but they are not smooth and stock-looking. Am I correct?
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Old 10-06-2009   #16 (permalink)
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Yesterday I was able to get the cylinder honed and the new rings installed. Between then and now I have gotten it put back together. It has good compression, doesn't smoke anymore, and runs great.

Does anyone know what the break-in procedure is for the new rings? I ran it for 10 minutes lightly without issue today.
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Old 10-07-2009   #17 (permalink)
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Bump
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Old 10-07-2009   #18 (permalink)
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break in take afew hrs at low rpms and never rev it out and or hold a rpm to long.change up the rpms while rideing.do not open the throotle all the way for at least hrs of break in.after 8 hrs of break in change the oil and filter and have fun.-corey-
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Old 10-07-2009   #19 (permalink)
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i just bought my buds 250 mojave that needs a total top end i will post pics of the rebuild as i go ....as soon as i get to it ne how lol...its goin to cost me 348.. to rebuild it no includeing the machine shop charge to bore it out.imma makin it a 280ccwith 11.5 comp and haveing the cams done up to match.new timin chain, guides,intakes and exhaust valves,springs,guides and sealsmight have the head milled down if i got the clearence.or just cut some eyebrows in the piston to give me some room for valves to clear.its goin to fast i hope to beet my buds 300 ex and my other buds 350 warrior.good times goooood times await lol-corey-
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Old 10-07-2009   #20 (permalink)
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break in take afew hrs at low rpms and never rev it out and or hold a rpm to long.change up the rpms while rideing.do not open the throotle all the way for at least hrs of break in.after 8 hrs of break in change the oil and filter and have fun.-corey-
Quote:
Originally Posted by 86klf300guy View Post
i just bought my buds 250 mojave that needs a total top end i will post pics of the rebuild as i go ....as soon as i get to it ne how lol...its goin to cost me 348.. to rebuild it no includeing the machine shop charge to bore it out.imma makin it a 280ccwith 11.5 comp and haveing the cams done up to match.new timin chain, guides,intakes and exhaust valves,springs,guides and sealsmight have the head milled down if i got the clearence.or just cut some eyebrows in the piston to give me some room for valves to clear.its goin to fast i hope to beet my buds 300 ex and my other buds 350 warrior.good times goooood times await lol-corey-
I have just been running it easy until it fully breaks in. Compression is already better than it was, I can just imagine when the rings seat fully.

That sounds like a good time. Unfortunately I've never really rode a fast quad. Just utilities.

I have another question. Recently it started making a new noise. As soon as you shut it off, there is a whirring noise followed by a clunk. It sounds like something is spinning but is stopped abruptly. At the same time this started I also notice the clutch is slipping, but only when the engine is braking the wheels. You ride down a hill at idle, then the clutch seems to disengage and the quad free-wheels down the hill. It will kick back in if you rev the motor. Any ideas?
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