KLF 300C almost seized?

[6Fidy]

Hi all,

I picked up my KLF 300C from a guy who lives down the road from me, it had been sitting semi covered for a couple of years until I got hold of it.

I have since cleaned out the carb, brakes, replaced the battery, oil and oil filter.

I have had success in running it and was having a lot of fun with the only the occasional carb issue due to some gunk in the fuel tank until it just seems to have sort of seized up.

Not the motor, you can start it but when it's put into gear it's as if the brakes are on and it really struggles.

I thought it may be a rear diff issue so I picked up the bike and pushed it from the rear only to find the front is also locked up.

Could it be a clutch issue? even if the machine is in neutral this still happens, it's like something in the gearbox is not letting the wheels or motor turn without a lot of resistance.

All feedback appreciated.

[RCW]

You need to go through a process of elimination to find the problem that is making the ATV hard to roll in neutral.

What I would immediately suspect is that the brake fluid has not been changed and the wheel cylinders are frozen with the brakes partially locked. That is easy to check by inspection of each brake assembly and trying to roll the individual hubs by hand with the machine in neutral, two wheel drive, and all four wheels off the ground. If this is the problem it is easily corrected by replacing all the wheel cylinders and flushing the brake system.

If someone was dumb enough to use automotive oil, the clutch could be a problem, but it is doubtful it is the problem. When the transmission is shifted to neutral the clutch is not involved, and it should roll easily.

If the transmission will not shift into neutral and allow it to rev up without pulling itself, then you have a combination problem. The centrifugal clutch is likely full of gunk and the transmission shift linkage is either not properly adjusted or a shift fork is broken.

If it has the wrong size tires, such as larger or smaller than OEM on one end without the proper size adjustment for the other end, and is in four wheel drive, the drive train will bind.

Of course, there is always the possibility that the differentials were not properly lubed and have seized the bearings, but no one would ride one without first checking the oil quality and levels in the differential, so that is doubtful. If the differentials are seized, you would be money ahead to just junk it and buy a different one.

Lastly, these have a form of limited slip in the front differential. If the front differential oil has not been serviced the clutches will freeze to the differential spider gears and then the front axle fights itself, especially on turns. Another easy fix, take it apart, clean and inspect the parts, replace any that are pitted, and use the correct lube.

[6Fidy]

Originally Posted by RCW

You need to go through a process of elimination to find the problem that is making the ATV hard to roll in neutral.

What I would immediately suspect is that the brake fluid has not been changed and the wheel cylinders are frozen with the brakes partially locked. That is easy to check by inspection of each brake assembly and trying to roll the individual hubs by hand with the machine in neutral, two wheel drive, and all four wheels off the ground. If this is the problem it is easily corrected by replacing all the wheel cylinders and flushing the brake system.

Nope. rear brakes work fine, I haven't sorted out the front yet. Have really only just got it going, total run time would be about 40 minutes.


If someone was dumb enough to use automotive oil, the clutch could be a problem, but it is doubtful it is the problem. When the transmission is shifted to neutral the clutch is not involved, and it should roll easily.

Nope. Unless Honda GN4 is auto. Unfortunately the Honda oil is the only oil my local bike shop carries. I have to drive 1.5 hr there and back to my nearest large town to get anything different. My local specialise in rural farm bikes anyway.

If the transmission will not shift into neutral and allow it to rev up without pulling itself, then you have a combination problem. The centrifugal clutch is likely full of gunk and the transmission shift linkage is either not properly adjusted or a shift fork is broken.

Nope. Goes into gear OK, just really labouring when trying to ride off.

If it has the wrong size tires, such as larger or smaller than OEM on one end without the proper size adjustment for the other end, and is in four wheel drive, the drive train will bind.

I will have to check but I don't think so. I was fortunate enough to get two bikes, one with engine trouble (maybe I just found it) and the other has a busted frame from a crash so I've got a spare motor, diff's etc. and the wheels on both bikes look the same

Of course, there is always the possibility that the differentials were not properly lubed and have seized the bearings, but no one would ride one without first checking the oil quality and levels in the differential, so that is doubtful. If the differentials are seized, you would be money ahead to just junk it and buy a different one.

Hmmm. One wouldn't, would they....

Lastly, these have a form of limited slip in the front differential. If the front differential oil has not been serviced the clutches will freeze to the differential spider gears and then the front axle fights itself, especially on turns. Another easy fix, take it apart, clean and inspect the parts, replace any that are pitted, and use the correct lube.

I think I'll have to try a few different things. I have put it up on blocks, the front wheels rotate ok but the rear just seem to fight any applied force. The rear was making a funny noise that caught my attention but as I'm unfamiliar with the bike I really don't know what is a standard noise for this bike.

If it is a rear diff issue, what is the normal problem with these bikes when they develope a diff problem?

[RCW]

There is no expected problem with the rear diff on the Bayou 300.

What I would do once I traced the difficulty to the rear drive system, is first remove both rear brake assemblies so there was absolutely nothing dragging on the differential.

Then I would check again and see if the dragging problem went away.

If not, then I would pull the CV joint that connects the rear drive to the transmission. Then try the differential again.

Then check the rear wheel bearings and make sure they are not seized.

If that is not it, you will need to disassemble the rear differential and go through and inspect the parts. It could be as simple as a bearing, which are inexpensive.

[99prairie400]

Something you may also want to look into is the chain inside of the final drive case. If it was hanging above the oil level for an extended period of time it could be rusted too.

[RCW]

I am unaware of any of the C series having chain drive.