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#1 (permalink) |
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Still On The Kickstand
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 32
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Has anyone tested a CDI unit as per the manual please? I have done this. It didn't give me the readings that the factory manual states it should. So presuming it was faulty, I exchanged it for a new one. The new one gives the same readings as he old one! Arggh!
But neither match the figures in the manual, well some do, some don't The good news is the new one seems to start the bike so hopefully that was the original problem but I'm still confused by the test in the manual. The manual does state that I should use the special Kawasaki tool to check resistance as results may vary but surely this is only a multimeter, right? My readings are in the mega ohm range whereas the manual says "set the range to x1ohms". Can anyone help please? Last edited by stu#71 : 10-08-2009 at 10:16 PM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Way Too Much Free Time
BTK Expert
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Oregon, Chile, Alberta, Texas
Posts: 1,482
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No, multimeters are not all the same. When you test either the CDI igniter or the rectifier/regulator you want to use a very high impedance digital multimeter.
Analog units will not work, nor will the ultra low cost versions of the digital meters now available. You are fortunate you did not blow one of the gates in the igniter if you meter is a generic type.
__________________
2008 3010 Trans4X4 Diesel Mule 2008 JD XUV 850 Diesel 1979 XS650 Yamaha New DR-Z400S |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Still On The Kickstand
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 32
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Thanks RCW - interesting. So how do I check if my multimeter is suitable for this check please? What "impedance" am I looking for? Will it state this on the meter itself?
It's an expensive Fluke digital model which should have high impedance anyway, right? Not sure what series until I get back home. Why would the Kawasaki special multi meter (even if it is a different impedance) show such huge differences in resistance ie 0-1 ohms when mine reads the test in meg ohms figures? Any help understanding what's going on here much appreciated. Last edited by stu#71 : 10-08-2009 at 10:28 PM. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Way Too Much Free Time
BTK Expert
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Oregon, Chile, Alberta, Texas
Posts: 1,482
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Talk to the electronics shop where you bought the meter, not all specifications packaged with the meter are adequate. I use a Fluke for most of my work, but also have a low dollar - about $70 - unit from Brighton that works almost as well.
What I look for is an accurate input impedance at 10 Ohm's of .01 VDC or less. I also want a resistance resolution of 1 ohm and accuracy of +-1%.
__________________
2008 3010 Trans4X4 Diesel Mule 2008 JD XUV 850 Diesel 1979 XS650 Yamaha New DR-Z400S |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Still On The Kickstand
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 32
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Thx RCW. Based on that I think my meter is suitable then. Cheers.
So the question still remains: why am I getting such huge differences in my results compared to what the manual says it should be? I'm pretty sure I'm doing the test correctly: it's only + on this wire, - on that etc and around all the colours checking the resistance as we go. The differences mainly seem to be on the blue wire checked against all the other colours. This blue wire comes from the pick up coil and tells the CDI when the engine is in the correct position (or near to) for a spark to occur. Could the manual be wrong? ![]() |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Way Too Much Free Time
BTK Expert
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Oregon, Chile, Alberta, Texas
Posts: 1,482
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Igniters will sometimes continue to function when that have partially failed. I would take it back and have the dealer check it, and get it replaced before you are stranded.
__________________
2008 3010 Trans4X4 Diesel Mule 2008 JD XUV 850 Diesel 1979 XS650 Yamaha New DR-Z400S |
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