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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #1 (permalink)
guimond47
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Default 07 brute force, front and rear diff oil problems , help ASAP! PLZ

i have a brute 650i that i just bought, i decided to check the oils in the diffs and they looked milky , soo i changed them both . now i came back from my ride and i still does look like it , this is the third time i change the oil in the diff. the front diff oil looks like light green olivy color , and the back looks grey. the vent hoses are fine, the bike has only 1800km on it. and the level in the front diff wen i fill it up to the threads and ill go for a ride then check it again , it wont be up to the threads anymore. what is goin on. im starting to thing i need new diff seals? am i right?

i even took a sample of the oils from the diff and put them in a freezer to see if they would freeze as of because there is water in the oil, and both oils did not freeze soo i am confused to see if theres water in the oil.......
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #2 (permalink)
99prairie400
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If it's not clear, there is water in it. It's beaten into the oil well enough to not freeze solid.

You need to take a good washing to the front end. You'll wash away the mud and crud around all three shaft seals. Once you have them clean, you need to take a ride without getting totally covered in mud. Something just trail riding...dust is good, mud is bad... Once you have taken the ride you should have an oil slick on one or more of the output shafts.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #3 (permalink)
guimond47
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thanks for the info but i did that for the back diff and i dint see no leaks or seeps or signs of oil on the seals.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #4 (permalink)
99prairie400
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When you say "i came back from my ride", what type of ride? If I took it down to mudpit at the ATV park and came back with it a little milk I'd consider myself lucky... If I took it on a trail ride and it was milky, I'd be a little worried.

The process I take whenever I return with a little water in the lube is; drain for a day, kerosene to the top and a few rides up and down the driveway, drain and refill with kerosene, drain and refill with regular 80W-90 gear oil, ride if for an afternoon around the yard just to mix it up really, well. Then I drain it overnight once more and refill with wet brake oil for the last time.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #5 (permalink)
guimond47
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by ride i mean hit a couple of holes of mud, be there not deep , my dads brute went through it all with no water in oil wats soo ever, and wat is kerosene?
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #6 (permalink)
99prairie400
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kerosene... as in kerosene lamps, or kerosene heaters.... It's akin to diesel fuel but it doesn't stink like crap and doesn't leave a paraffin film on anything.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #7 (permalink)
guimond47
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may i ask wat is the need of that?
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #8 (permalink)
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It's light enough to rinse the globs of milky lube out of the top where it doesn't drain out from the rear end but not nasty enough to ruin seals. Gasoline will ruin seals and more gear oil won't necessarily rinse the nasty stuff out of the diff
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #9 (permalink)
V2K Ed
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Are you sure that there is water in the diff? Some times the oil will foam giving it a milky look . Try letting it set overnite then inspect. Just my 2 cents. Good luck...
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #10 (permalink)
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done did it , and how do can i tell which seal on the diff went bad? or which one is sucking up the oil?
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #11 (permalink)
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Usually if there is some damage to a seal it was done during a shaft change, it's obvious (a bent or torn seal), and it's repairable with a single part (just replace the seal and you're ready to go)

If there is no dark area around one of the seals you aren't leaking gear oil, you're adding water to it and you need to check and re-check your vent line to make sure it hasn't been pinched and cut somewhere up it's length.

If your entire rear-end is covered in dark spots, you don't have an obviously damaged seal, AND you're absolutely sure your vent line is intact, it doesn't matter which seal is leaking because you're going to need to purchase a complete rebuild kit and tear into it. A rebuild kit from all-balls or moose will have replacement bearings and seals.
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