2002 gas Mule 3010 grinds going into gear

[boxerwalker]

I just bought a used 2002 Mule 3010 and it's grinding going into gear. It grinds worst going into High and not as bad going into Low and Reverse. I have read a couple of different threads on here that sayed to turn the idle srew down. I turned it down and it will idle low and go into gear without much grinding but then after I drive it the idle goes back high and it grinds. The other problem is when the idle was down low it wouldn't start the best and would stall, if I didn't give it gas. I've read that sometimes the shift linkage needs adjusted. How do you adjust the linkage and how do you know if it needs adjusted? My Mule has 245 hours on it. Any help is greatly appreciated!

[boxerwalker]

I spoke with the former owner of my 2002 Mule and he said to put it into gear fast not slow. He said if you put it in gear slow it will grind. Is this right? Thanks!

[RCW]

Some light gear clash on engagement is the nature of the beast. If it sets there and rattles like a picket fence and fights going into gear, then you have a problem with clutch adjustment, belt wear, or the idle.

These do not have typical engagement gears like a car, but use dog teeth like antique farm equipment. So, the square shouldered dogs are always turning and will rattle very lightly a click or two as they find their engagement slots. Excessive rattling knocks the corners off the dogs and then they will kick out of gear.

Take a look at the parts diagrams on Kawasaki.com and you will get an idea of the construction of the engagement dogs.

If need be, do turn down the idle. But, because Kawasaki uses carburetor jetting that is extraordinarily lean on the low end, it may be necessary to increase the pilot jets a size to allow easy starting and smooth idle.

If I have a good cold idle and then a warm idle speeding up, I tear the carb down and clean out the pilot fuel passages. They should not change idle speed appreciably once the choke is off, warm or cold. When they do, it means the passages are partially clogged and that as the fuel warms it flows easier, hence the speeding up.

[okieduc104]

Originally Posted by RCW

Some light gear clash on engagement is the nature of the beast. If it sets there and rattles like a picket fence and fights going into gear, then you have a problem with clutch adjustment, belt wear, or the idle.

These do not have typical engagement gears like a car, but use dog teeth like antique farm equipment. So, the square shouldered dogs are always turning and will rattle very lightly a click or two as they find their engagement slots. Excessive rattling knocks the corners off the dogs and then they will kick out of gear.

Take a look at the parts diagrams on Kawasaki.com and you will get an idea of the construction of the engagement dogs.

If need be, do turn down the idle. But, because Kawasaki uses carburetor jetting that is extraordinarily lean on the low end, it may be necessary to increase the pilot jets a size to allow easy starting and smooth idle.

If I have a good cold idle and then a warm idle speeding up, I tear the carb down and clean out the pilot fuel passages. They should not change idle speed appreciably once the choke is off, warm or cold. When they do, it means the passages are partially clogged and that as the fuel warms it flows easier, hence the speeding up.

I don't understand the Kawasaki carb design near as well as I do those of Rochester, Briggs and Tecumpsy other American made carbs. I don't understand the Kaw choke operation and agree that the Kaw has a really lean idle and it works quite well. I found that always fully choke before hitting the starter and use about 1/2 accelerator then hit start and it roars to life. I then move the choke to 1/2 choke for 10 or 15 seconds and the beast is ready to idle and roll.

[Roze]

I had a similar problem with my Mule 2500. Turns out the shift arm positioning bolt had worked itself loose. Once this bolt was tightened the problem went away. On the 2500 this bolt is located on the rear of the gear box, near the neutral safety switch. Don't know if your mule even has one, but it would be worth a check to see if it is loose or missing. It looks like a bolt screwed into the gear box case for no apparent reason, but it is really holding the forward, neutral, reverse shift arm in the proper position.

[robertwhite]

Originally Posted by RCW

But, because Kawasaki uses carburetor jetting that is extraordinarily lean on the low end, it may be necessary to increase the pilot jets a size to allow easy starting and smooth idle.

Just thought I would chime in and say that I tried to find new (larger) pilot jets for my 3010 and none could be found. This Mikuni is kind of a one off design in many ways. Wound up drilling out the brass plugs and adjusting the air/fuel screws. Runs perfect now.

[boxerwalker]

Thanks for all the great replies!

How easy is it to clean the carb and jets. Is drilling out the brass plugs and adjusting the air/fuel screwsa an easy job, or a job left up to a professional?

Where is the gear box, so I can check for a loose/missing screw?

Thanks for the help!

[robertwhite]

Originally Posted by boxerwalker

Thanks for all the great replies!

How easy is it to clean the carb and jets. Is drilling out the brass plugs and adjusting the air/fuel screwsa an easy job, or a job left up to a professional?

If you have basic knowledge of carbs, taking apart the Mikuni is super easy. Do not drill out the plugs without trying everything else first. It is a simple job, but I went thru a laundry list of other attempts first.

I would also order all the carb gaskets from Kawi before starting. If you happen to rip one, then you are stuck. Besides, they are only a few bucks and you can (and probably will) take it apart several times and new gaskets will hold up.

[boxerwalker]

The grinding now happens, when I move the gear shifter from nuetral low to nuetral high. When I go from Low to nuetral and move the shifter to the left it started grinding in nuetral only when sliding the shifter. Does this indicate amother type of problem. Any more help is very much appreciated.

[RCW]

From your first post I thought you had a problem with high idle and idle stability, which is the carburetor. If that is not the problem, and it is grinding away when the idle is properly set, check your linkage and torque converter system.

If you have not corrected the idle problem, you are whizzing in the wind and will never get it to shift properly.

Once step at a time to solve problems with shifting.

Take a look at your service manual and check the alignment of the shift linkage levers and cables. They are relatively easy to adjust and align as the shafts have reference marks that align with the levers. Loose or rusted cables can be a real nightmare, so check both ends for any problem.

Check the clutch alignment and condition in the torque converter, and belt tolerances.

At normal idle, it should snap right into gear from setting still quite easily and not be grinding much belyond a quick snap if you are moving the lever firmly.

If you are winging this without the manual, stop before you break something or hurt yourself and get a service manual.

[boxerwalker]

Thanks, RCW. I did buy a service manual.

I adjusted the idle and it shifts a lot better but keeping it running in sanother story. The other problem of it grinding in nuetral moving the shifter back and forth started today. On the service manual it states adjusting the cable according to the grinding position in nuetral and high. I wasn't sure if this was normal or a common problem as it seems.

I am going to check the shift linkage and if it is misaligned, I hope to ba able to align the cable and turn the idle up a little.

I appreciate the help!

[RCW]

I set them up by feel once the idle and the levers and shafts are properly aligned. If you shift crisply they should just pop right into gear from a stop.

They should never be shifted on the fly. Even though Kawasaki says you can shift into four wheel drive on the fly under certain conditions, I do not recommend doing so. Sooner or later one of those dogs or a shift fork will snap it they are stressed incorrectly during the shifting process.

The neutral to high or low should never be shifted on the fly under any circumstance. that guarantees trashing the transmission.