My "new to me" 2005 Prairie 360 4x4

[Derwood]

This is my first post ever on this site! I am doing so because as the title says, I got my first bike, and it's a Kawasaki Prairie. I had gotten some good recommendations from other shops in my area, but actually spent a few hours reviewing a lot of the comments on here about them. It sounds like I found a decent "first quad" for myself and I'm excited.

After buying it, I was instantly a little frustrated with how cold blooded it was. After reading on here that many had that problem with this particular unit, I took it in to have the valves adjusted and the fluids changed and a handful of other little things looked at and adjusted. They said the exhaust clearance (I think that's what they said) was at zero and that's not a good thing.

Anyway, it runs really good now and I am pleased.

Derwood

[RCW]

The cold blooded nature is because this is an EPA carb. Here is something I posted about these way back when:

The dealer can be fined big time for tinkering. Some will do it and not say anything about the magic they worked; but with all the slobbering tree huggers lurking behind every bush with a dozen lawyers, most will not.

Go to Dynojet and pick up their stage 1 kit for the carburetor. By the way, doing your own modifications is legal in most states, unless you have it licensed for highway travel.

What the Dynojet kit does is change the main jet needle profile with a slightly thinner and faster taper, reduces the size of the main jet, and then you lightly bottom and then back out the pilot air screw 2 turns from bottom for an initial low speed fueling rate.

The kit comes with excellent instructions. Just do not get a counterfeit kit off E-Bay, get a genuine Dynojet and get the real deal! The ones I have seen come off E-Bay have been knock-off's in a box labeled as Dynojet, the instructions reconverted Chinglish that is a best guess as to what it says, they do not have the same needle profile as a real Dynojet kit, and you will gain nothing but a headache trying to tune it.

Once you are properly jetted according to Dynojet's instructions, go one step further. Set the pilot screw according to the Dynojet instructions, and treat that as a starting point.

Then start and completely warm the engine to full operating temperature. It has to be fully hot and ready to go!

Once the ATV is warmed to operating temperature, bring it up to a fast idle of about 1800 rpm. The best way to get a fast idle and keep it is with the idle adjustment screw - the one with the handle on the cable that sticks down past the carburetor.

Make sure the choke is off before doing this.

While holding a steady, high idle, use the adjustment tool (short screwdriver that will fit in the space under the carb) to slowly screw the fuel mixture screw clockwise. Tighten the screw until the engine rpm drops (and nearly dies), then slowly turn the screw back out, counterclockwise. You will hear the engine rpm begin to speed up and the exhaust note will become crisper - you will definitely hear the crispness and will know it when you hear it.

Stop turning the fuel mixture screw out at the exact moment when the engine hits peak rpm at the fast idle setting you locked in earlier. Peak rpm is when the engine runs the crispest, cleanest and fastest at the fast idle speed.

When you reach that perfect point, the idle won't become faster the more you back the fuel mixture screw out. If you keep turning the screw, the rpm will stay up but the exhaust note will become dull and lumpy - which means it sounds like the choke is on and it is running rich.

Once the Pilot fuel screw is properly set, slow the idle back down with the idle adjustment - the knob with the long cable beside the carb - only to where it would normally idle.

Keep the small screwdriver handy, as when the air temperature warms up come Spring, you will want to adjust Pilot fuel mixture screw for the best performance, and you will definitely feel the difference. Better yet, your fuel economy can be increased rather dramatically by keeping this properly adjusted.

Dynojet will give you instructions on how to drill out the seal that covers the pilot fuel screw, but you are still stuck with the dinky pilot screw. For about $22 you can get a pilot screw that sticks out of the well in the bottom of the carburetor, and then you can set it with your fingers. That is what I do, and it sure beats trying to work upside down with a dinky screwdriver when you cannot see what is happening. The screw is available from JD Jetting.

Installing the kit will solve your starting problems in cold weather, hot weather, and really increase power and fuel economy. If you are like most, you will not believe the difference in power once these wake up.

The other recommendation is to pick up a repair manual and save the trips to the dealer shop.

[Derwood]

Thanks RCW. I'm not much of a wrench, but perhaps I can figure some of that out on my own with the manual. The fella at the shop who was talking to me while loading it into my truck said they could jet it two sizes bigger than what the manual called for (again, not exactly sure what he said ). He said that would solve all of my starting issues and that I would almost never need to choke it again... Sounds like the Dynosolves my problem and gives me a few more ponies?