Kawasakie Mule 4010 diesel 4x4

[jamiejo74]

I am working on a mule that is a diesel enigne. The people who had it before put gas in the tank and there was water as well. It sat like this for month. I have drained the tank and replaced the fuel filter. I'm trying to find out how to time this engine. I noticed the big gear in the middle, but i dont see any timing marks. I'm trying to pull the fuel injection pump off to clean it out. Also does anyone have a diagram of how the injection pump is put together?

[jamiejo74]

Just so that you know i am not able to go down and purchase anything and etc. I am deployed in Afghanistan right now. My main job here is a generator mechanic, but to get around I was given this Mule. I just need to fix it. Any and all help with this will be great.

[TheMitch]

I am speaking on behalf of the B&S 953, but I believe it to be pretty much the same. First thing would be to mark a line between the IP and the gear case. This will allow you to set the pump back to the original place it was with regards to the cover. The IP drive gear is keyed. Next, between the crank, idler, cam, and IP drive gear, there should be letters. There will be an A, an AA, a B, a BB, and finally a C and a CC. I believe this will get you going.

Also, rereading your comment, I see that you are looking at the Harmonic drive pulley. That will have to be taken off with a puller then the outer half of the gear case can come off to access the bolt on the IP drive gear.

[TheMitch]

Just for future reference, the marks that you see on the pulley are for the gas version of this engine to set the distributor.

specifications

[Thumperacres]

Can you use the transfer pump to purge the system w/o doing the R&R on the pump? This would include the lines to the injectors. Then run it on clean fuel with a additive package if you can get it there to complete the gasoline and water removal? MAybe even a jury rigged system set up like in IV drip hung up high if it doesn't have a hand purge pump on it. Max

[RCW]

The advice regarding the B&S engine is spot on. They are the same identical engine with only difference being the crankshaft from the turbocharged version is used in the Mule.

If you are a military generator mechanic you fully understand the dangers of opening the pressurized fuel lines on the injection pump when purging. And, you already know how to prime one. So, that being the case, I would not remove the pump, but would use diesel and purge the thing by loosening the output lines at the fuel distributor, and let the starter spin the pump and purge the gasoline.

Keep a water hose handy so you can spray the gasoline vapors with water as they blow in the air. They will be very explosive. A good CO2 extinguisher will be handy to have on hand just in case.

If the fuel mix evacuates from the pump, then you will not need to rebuild the pump. If it does not, these pumps are really not worth the cost of the parts to do a field fix. They are a distributor style and are best just replaced with one that has been benched and tested after rebuild. 99.9% of the field rebuilds on these pumps fail! 100% of the swaps for a rebuilt bench tested pump are successful.

If you have water in the system, the damage will be in the injectors and unlikely in the pump. You can disassemble the injectors and clean them, but the pattern will be garbage and power will be next to nothing. If the water never got past the filter, do not worry about it.

[jamiejo74]

to RCW.. well they people that put gas in it actually drove it a few feet before it died on them. so the water and fuel were in the injection pump. I let the fuel lines air out and then soaked them in diesel. i did the same with the injectors. Being a generator mechanic i see this issue a lot. I get generators in that people but gas in instead of fuel. Most often I can drain the tank and clean it. Then after putting clean fuel in, pop off the fuel lines and purge it until i get good clean fuel. Then hook the lines back up to the pump, disconnect the lines coming out of the injection and let it crank over until I get good clean fuel coming out of the injection pump. Then reconnect the fuel lines and start it up. I tried this exact thing but it failed. Another mechanic tried working on it before I was told I had to work on it. They took the back plate off the pump so now i am assuming that the injection pump is just waisted. To TheMitch.. thanks for that advice. Like RCW said and from what i see on the mule i have they sound the same. That is going to come in handy since it sounds like i'm going to have pull that injection pump off and try to find another one!

[RCW]

That is a shame the pump was opened up. Usually a small amount of water in gasoline will not cause a problem unless air is allowed in the pump. Once air is introduced you get phase separation, acid formation, and immediate rust that ruins the pump.

[Jenny]

Kawasaki Mule 4010 diesel 4x4 is hard to access the location in safety & comfort. Mule 4010 is diesel's liquid cooled also 953cc 3-cylinder engine.

[rattrapbr]

I am speaking on behalf of the B&S 953, but I believe it to be pretty much the same. First thing would be to mark a line between the IP and the gear case. This will allow you to set the pump back to the original place it was with regards to the cover. The IP drive gear is keyed. Next, between the crank, idler, cam, and IP drive gear, there should be letters. There will be an A, an AA, a B, a BB, and finally a C and a CC. I believe this will get you going.

Also, rereading your comment, I see that you are looking at the Harmonic drive pulley. That will have to be taken off with a puller then the outer half of the gear case can come off to access the bolt on the IP drive gear.

Thanks for the advice, I don;t have access to a repair manual, but i was wondering if you could tell me the gap spacing for this vehicle. we rebuilt a ceased engine, it runs... but it sounds like we have too much of a gap now

[TheMitch]

With a cold engine, both intake and exhaust should be set to .20 mm or .008 inches.