Need Help Problem Solving Shifting Problems for a 1992 Bayou 300 2WD

[gooseman80]

Hey guys, I'm new to here and could use a little advice. I just recently purchased a 1992 Bayou 300 that I have been fixing up. Once I got the bike running I discovered that the bike has shifting problems. Basically, I'm having a hard time getting it to shift into first from neutral. I can get the bike into reverse without any problems, but forward gears are giving me problems. Two things I've discovered on this: When I adjust the clutch improperly, basically too much CW on the screw thereby giving the shift pedal to much play which is also adding too much tension on the secondary clutch, I can get the bike to shift into the forward gears. This is not an option however because the shift pedal when the clutch is not properly adjusted doesn't return to center. The other thing I noticed while trying to solve this problem is that if I loosen the secondary clutch springs. I can shift into the first without any problems by popping the shift lever up with my finger. Wouldn't this mean that the gear shift drum is rotating and I might be having a problem with the secondary clutch? I'm just dredging the news that I might have a bent shift fork here. I should also say that I have been able to drive this bike through all the gears when the clutch was not properly adjusted, but it does not shift correctly and I stopped on account of doing damage to the bike. I should also say that I tried replacing the shift level spring #92144 and change drum lever spring #92081 which didn't help at all. I have looked over all the clutch release components short of pulling out the lever shift shaft. I have not pull off any of the clutches as well in that I've been doing a lot of my inspections with a mirror or feel. The only thing I have found which didn't turn out to be the problem was a slightly loose crank case pin (the one the is in center of the shift lever) which I have tightened. What's throwing be off here is that when I loosen the secondary clutch springs, the shift lever will click up easily thereby turning the star looking cam change drum. I just would hate having to split the crank case open and not find anything wrong so I'm hoping to exhaust all my other options before going to the trouble. From what i can see, I don't notice any wear from the components that I can access and the shift cam shaft seems to rotate the shift lever true and straight. I'm just at my wits end here and could really use some advice or thoughts. Thanks

[RCW]

I am going to send you down a slightly different path.

You have two adjustment bolts on the clutch actuation. One that centers the release cam, and the second that adjusts the throw for the release bearing. Be absolutely certain that the release cam bolt is adjusted so the release cam is centered so there is equal lift for both the reverse and forward shift actions. Then adjust the release bolt so the prescribed free play is present.

There are two other areas to check. Make sure your engine idle is properly set so the centrifugal clutch is not engaged and dragging the main clutch. Then for the dirty part. Remove the side cover and open the clutch with the friction disks and clean them if the clutch is not properly functioning once it is adjusted and the idle properly set.

If automotive oil that contains friction modifiers is used in these engines it gums the clutch plates and that will result in a dragging clutch.

[gooseman80]

No, only one adjustment bolt, not two. I thought the two bolt adjustments were only on the 4x4. This is not, it is only a 2WD. You are talking about the screw with locknut behind the small clutch cover held with three bolts, correct? Only one which is the release bolt. Already played with the idle. I also tried spraying down the clutches with cleaner, but haven't removed them yet in that my air compressor in inop at the moment to run my impact wrench. I looked at it again the other night, it would almost seem to me that there is a sweet spot where the lever shift mechanism on the shaft will shift easily. When I opened the cover again, I could easily shift with my finder and that was without loosening the secondary clutch springs. Messing around with it and turning the wheels and clutch somewhat, there was a point where I could not shift with my finger even when I loosened up the secondary clutch springs. It's sounding like more to me that it could in fact be a bent shift fork. With a bent shift fork, would it represent a situation where sometimes it will shift and sometimes it will not? Or would it be on the terms of either / or?

[RCW]

There are two adjustments on the 2 WD 300. Go to Kawasaki.com and follow the owner info tab to the parts diagrams for the 1992 Bayou 300 that you have.

When you get there go to the clutch diagram. You want to center part #13119A, and then adjust the throw via part #92009.

As you work on these you will find the parts diagrams that Kawasaki provides for reference to be your best source of identification of relationships between the parts.

Do not screw with the internal clutch springs. They are not adjustable. To clean the frictions and steels in the main clutch it will be necessary to disassemble it and use cleaner on the individual disks. They usually will clean right up with something on the order of Brake Cleaner and a good scrubbing with a paint brush. Then let the paper coated frictions dry in the sun before you reassemble. If the steels are blue or brown streaked, or have evidence of heat distortion; or if the papers on the frictions are chipped or cracked, replace them all as a set.

Be real sure you watch how the clutch comes apart so you put it back together correctly. You do not want to reverse the very first disk, part #13187 or the clutch will essentially become inoperable.

I would not even go near the clutch drum or shifting forks until the clutch is properly adjusted. Then would tear into the transmission only if the adjustment did not solve the problem. The problem with tearing into a 1992 is that it really is not cost effective to replace what parts you will find are worn and dependent on each other for proper function. For instance, you do not want new forks on an old drum or running in the collars of the old dog gears, or they will be a pain to get to ever shift properly. Once you get into one, everything with evidence of wear has to be replaced or you just waste a lot of time and money.

[gooseman80]

Good point on the wear of all related parts. I'm still not following you on the center adjustment of the Cam-Release part 13119A. There is not adjustment in that it slides onto the lever-com-change-shaft. As far as the clutch release screw part 92009, that was the clutch adjustment I was talking about in my original post. Too much play, the 4 wheel will shift into gear but pedal will not come to center. Little or no play, 4 wheeler will not shift into forward gears but will shift into reverse. If the secondary clutch plate do need cleaning, would this explain why shifting into reverse and going works fine but shifting into forward gear does not? I should mention that once into forward gears, the bike flies down the road without any slippage. Thanks for your advice and help on this by the way.

[RCW]

When you inspect the bolt on that component, you will see it has an offset cam that fits in the slot of the cam release. When you loosen the nut on that bolt, you twist the bolt until the cam release is centered so it has an equal amount of lift when the balls ramp up in either direction.

You may want to remove the side case and inspect that full assembly that includes the cam release to be sure the balls freely roll up the ramps. Once in a great while, I think I have seen two in many years, these will crack and no longer raise correctly in one direction. Most often it is simply a situation that someone twisted the slotted adjustment bolt thinking they were adjusting the clutch release and ended up with it off center.

The old original dealer set up and service manual says to twist the bolt both directions, mark the extremes, then set the bolt so it centered with respect to the reference marks. This same process is pretty much true for all the manufacturers with ATV's and Motorcycles that have shift actuated clutch releases. The procedure can be a real bear if the bolt has been twisted enough that the assembly is loose inside and you can no longer feel when the pressure reaches its max on the clutch linkage.

If the latter has happened you need to set the tension up on the clutch release screw until you can feel the cam start to lift or actuate the clutch from the drag on the cam screw. Then find the center for the cam assembly and lock in there.

[gooseman80]

Man, I must be old because I'm still lost on this slotted adjustment bolt your talking about. If you could point it out on this drawing, I would appreciate it. I could even take a picture of what I am looking at tonight. The reference crank case part of this drawing is just a stopper pin by the way. My service manual doesn't say anything about this cam release center adjustment. I couldn't find any noticeable wear on the cam release components and the bearings seem to be in good shape. That being said, I never did start taking micro measurements with a caliper on these components.

[RCW]

Go to the bottom of the parts diagram, and look at the small bolt that holds the ramps and balls for the clutch release, and is tagged with the note "ref. crankcase." That is a locked bolt with a screw slot on most, but could be a fixed bolt on others. Make sure that bolt is good if it is fixed, and that it is centered if adjustable. It is part #92002 on the crankcase slide. While there remove and check the assembly that consists of 13119, 14020, and 13119A. Be sure the balls in 14020 are all there and that they are riding up on the ramps of 13119 as they should when the unit is held together and twisted.

Also observe how the shift lever engages that assembly and twists it to release the clutch. Be sure the engagement and twisting and lifting is taking place for both up and down shifts.

[gooseman80]

Ok, Thanks