klf 300 problems - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-03-2016, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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klf 300 problems

can anyone help please.my 1989 klf300 4x4 uses a lot of fuel.it starts straight away and idles but when I accelerate it splutters then after a few minutes it runs great but when I turn it off and leave it for a while it starts then splutters again.sometimes when I first start it,it runs great then turn it off it splutters when I start it again.plug is dry with black sooty deposits.it uses a lot of plugs.i have put a new coil,regulator petcock,air filter,battery,fuel filter and rebuilt the engine and everything is correct.smells very rich but turning the mixture screw doesn't make much difference unless turned right in then it cuts out.is the mixture screw supposed to have a spring in it.this bike is driving me mad,please can someone help.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-19-2016, 10:07 PM
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See the post "bayou carb problems" and in particular the most recent posts. While a 'controversy' developed, my opinion and solution- now supported by several others- is that the keihin carb on these 300s will drive you nuts, is far too much trouble to mess with, far too expensive to replace, and will never perform like it should. Running rich like this can very well destroy an otherwise good machine. Your choke may be the problem. The 'mixture' screw needs a spring plus the tiny o ring. If its not there, or destroyed from attempting to clean the carb, it will not run, or will act exactly how you describe. Hope this helps.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-24-2016, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrpipes View Post
See the post "bayou carb problems" and in particular the most recent posts. While a 'controversy' developed, my opinion and solution- now supported by several others- is that the keihin carb on these 300s will drive you nuts, is far too much trouble to mess with, far too expensive to replace, and will never perform like it should. Running rich like this can very well destroy an otherwise good machine. Your choke may be the problem. The 'mixture' screw needs a spring plus the tiny o ring. If its not there, or destroyed from attempting to clean the carb, it will not run, or will act exactly how you describe. Hope this helps.
thanks for replying but there is a spring in there now but it is still the same.lately when it gets hot it runs great.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-24-2016, 08:37 PM
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You're welcome. Since no wanted to try to help, I thought I'd chime in. But I'm probably the last person to talk with if you want to use that old carb LOL. But seriously, if you go year by year with the parts diagrams on the web, jetting is all over the place. Buying a few jets is pretty cheap and changing them is kind of a PIA but easy. It a good sign that it runs good when hot, which still leads me to think you may have a choke problem and again, if that tiny little o ring is not there or damaged, it will not run. Jets r us gives me great service. There are some good articles on the web about reading a plug. Black and using lots of them is a sure sign it is rich. Go for light brown. But again it all leads me to think the choke is not seating. Good luck.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-30-2016, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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I have noticed yesterday it was running like crap but when I was going down a steep bank on the farm after a minute or so it ran spot on.do you think the carb float wants adjusting,i thought this because when going down hill the fuel goes to the front shutting the float needle sooner.thanks.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-02-2016, 09:59 PM
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That very well may be your problem. The float height, measured from the mating surface (no gasket) should be 17mm or .670 inches. Turn it upside down and measure and adjust the tang . A caliper or machinists scale is helpful.But, since you will have the carb of, check the choke, which is not really a choke-its an enRICHer, and make sure the plunger is seating. Hope this helps.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-03-2016, 04:39 PM
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Another thought. The intake on these or any other can cause problems if you get any air leak whatsoever. Going downhill with the weight of the carb and all else may be changing things one way or the other.This can lead you in circles looking for an intermittent problem. The rubber on these crack and even though you have a clamp on it, can suck air and drive you batty trying to find the problem. Also, if you have a phenolic insulator they use O rings which go bad. I use the O rings and make a gasket for both sides.(easy) I am a fan of spray copper gasket sealant on hot areas.

The best way I know to check an intake boot or carb holder goes as follows. With it idling and not hot, spray some starting fluid around the intake. Lightly; from a distance and be very careful. It doesn't take much. If RPM increases, you have an air leak. Never use starting fluid into a carb on one of these things. (I never do on anything) Its akin to dropping a lit cherry bomb into a cylinder and the piston rings etc. likely will not stand it. Let me know how you come out.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-04-2016, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for your help I will get a caliper and try everything you have said,and let you know
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-05-2016, 11:10 AM
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As discussed repeatedly in "bayou 300 carb problems", there are many problems that can develop and as you said in the first post, can drive a person "mad." A lot of these discussions center around the float needle and needle seat which is not replaceable on these. A lot of people have experienced overflow problems which can be very dangerous. Yours may be sticking and allowing fuel flow, and then not allowing it. Take a Q tip and use toothpaste or any fine polishing compound and polish where the float needle seats. I use tiny dab of valve compound but just about anything similar will work. Then make sure you clean and get it ALL out of the carb. By polishing it, it 'should' work but sometimes it just doesn't and the carb has to be replaced.

The fuel level should be + - .5 to 1 mm above the bottom edge of the carb body- meaning the top of the fuel bowl. While the factory service manual calls for a special tool, you can easily use a piece of clear tubing connected to the fuel overflow. Hold the tubing above the fuel bowl and then open the fuel drain on the bottom of the bowl and open the petcock. Gravity will show the fuel level by filling the clear tube. Don't let the top of the tube drop below the bowl and carb body or it will give a false level.

It could be that the float itself has a pinhole, but does not sound likely in your case.

The way these carbs are designed to operate is totally different than what most people are used to. The mixture screw is a pilot jet, fuel only, and has nothing to do with air mixture. The service manual calls for 2 1/8 turns out from lightly seated. There are after market replacements which help to keep you from burning your hand trying to adjust it.

The choke is really a fuel enricher for starting purposes when necessary. It should not be necessary when its warm out.

Also, when working on these carbs never allow fuel to reach the rubber diaphragm in the upper half. They want an arm, leg, and first born son to replace it. The diaphragm depends on differences in atmospheric air pressures to operate the slide. While all carbs work that way, this design is very different. As I stated in other posts, I'm "not the first person to take a mirror and watch the slide flutter" and struggle to work like it should.

I bought a 1986, and then a 1988 for "parts." Now I ride both of them. I eliminated the carbs and found a way to enjoy riding instead of constantly messing with a carb or finding myself stuck out in the woods. In my opinion, a factory service manual is a necessity for working on just about anything. They can be found on the web for a few bucks to download. Well worth it, but still are not 'gospel." (Holy Kow) Good luck. Wish you were in central Indiana so I could have a look.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-09-2016, 10:09 PM
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I'm having much the same problem but I bought a whole new carb. Still wont rev, at all. The guy I have working on it tried the starting fluid thing around the intake but nothing changed. Could some electrical problem cause this?
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