hey RCW

[jonesj65@hotmai]

I just joined the forum a couploe a weeks ago after i purched my gas 3010 trans. after reading alot of the mule threads, it seems that you are the mule authority. I read on where you said that you ran in deep water and you sealed your belt housing, etc. what did you use RTV?? also, since you have the diesel model, what extra precautions should i take with the gas for the water. Here in central FL water is everywhere, but so are the deer and hogs. Sorry to call you out, but it seems that you are the mule man.

[RCW]

RTV is the the solution to sealing the housing. Put on a 1/4 inch bead, let it start to dry just enough that is skins good so will not completely squash out then install the parts.

I use Hydrotex's diesel additive that suspends water, Stanadyne makes a good one too, and I run a Racor filter with a water separator in addition to the waste of time stock filter.

The gas engines are much more difficult to solve the water in fuel problem as the new gasolines with the alcohol in the fuel just suck up water like a sponge. You can try additives, but if you really sink one they do not do much good. I suppose it would be a good idea to carry a sealed can with you.

I hunt Florida, Georgia, Louisiana and Texas, so have sunk mine a few times with no real problems. Just carry a shovel that can be used as an axe, get a good winch with a long wired remote (the wireless guys are worthless, they get wet and quit), and carry a bunch of extra rope and a pulley block, and install a second sealed battery. I put mine in the bottom of a five foot wallow, and had to winch it up and out from under the water in East Texas - great entertainment for the hogs as they watched me dig out!

[jonesj65@hotmai]

Thanks for the info. I just turned over 9 hrs today on the mule. As soon as I do the first I think that I will tear her apart and RTV everthing. I have to ask since you have the mule experience, do you run the stock size/tread tire on your mule? I like the looks of the 26's, but I know that looks ain't everything. I'm not sure how much the larger tires will effect the little 620 compared to your diesel beast. Also, you say that you hunt down here in FL, where do you go, I am in Citrus County, but I hunt in Levy, Sumpter, Marion, and Dixie counties.

[RCW]

I run stock size tires. I know it is counter to the "cool" effect that a lot of people like, but for all practical applications the tire sizes they come with are part of an engineered package that gives good life and overall balance to the geartrain, the clutch life and performance, and stability of the Mule.

I used to go with the big tires and lift kits, but I found that for what I do, I could not go anywhere any better or faster with $4,000 of added tires and suspension than I could with the stock configuration. I also found that reliability of axles, universal joints, and front struts is a whole lot better with the OEM sized tires.

I have hunted in Santa Rosa and that coastal county east of there, Okaloosa, Walton, Garden, Liberty, Franklin, Baker, Clay, Taylor, Marion, Seminole, and a bunch of others down farther south. It is kind of a when the opportunity strikes and I have business where the hunting is good I try to go. It sure beats wasting my time on the golf course or in the bars. I no longer care if I even bag anything, it is just getting away from the crowds that is enjoyable.

[jonesj65@hotmai]

hey RCW, I just found a great deal, I think, on a repair and service manual for a mule. The manual is for a 2005 gas trans 4x4, but mine is a 2008, has there been any changes, or will the 2005 be the same for mine? At $25, I think that I will buy it anyway. Thanks for all of your help.

[RCW]

The manuals from 2001 through 2008 are pretty much identical. Kawasaki does issue updates every so often, so all you will ever have to do if the need arises is pick up the latest update for the 2008 from a dealer.

But, I believe that between the 2005 manual and the Kawasaki.com parts diagrams you will have no problem fixing just about anything. The kawasaki parts diagrams will show the parts that supersede any that have been discontinued, so between the two you will have it covered.

About the only big item of which I am aware that has changed is that Kawasaki no longer recommends reusing and torquing the head bolts in the event of a gasket change. You just throw the old bolts away and buy new ones, then torque them and crank them a partial turn additionally to set the proper stretch. No body was reusing the original head bolts anyway because they would just blow a head gasket afterward, so Kawasaki just made what everybody did official.

[jonesj65@hotmai]

Once again, thanks for your advice. So far I, and my kids are loving the mule

[jonesj65@hotmai]

Hey, I just read one of your replies about oil in the air cleaner, I am trying to find the oil recovery tank that you are talking about on the kohler 720. The only thing that I am finding looks to me like a PCV valve, is that what you are talking about?? The one I found just plugs into the valve cover with a rubber grommet... I have not had the problem yet, I would like to prevent it instead of dealing with it later.

Also, some time ago I asked about the winch mount on my new trans, I was having trouble with the holes alining. Come to find out Kawi welded the winch bracket on backwards. So far they are not so speedy in resolving the issue. Have you ever had any warranty issues with your many mules??

thanks,
John

[RCW]

Yes, it looks like a PCV valve but is an oil recovery unit. Pull it out of the grommet and it will fit right in a hose. Cheap and effective way to solve a nasty problem.

I would like to say I never had any warranty issues, but that would not be correct - these things are made by humans and mistakes sometimes happen. Hopefully, not that many. Just document everything and make absolutely certain that you also notify Kawasaki's chief counsel, their CEO and their VP of Product sales for the US directly if there is any problem with a dealer being responsive to a warranty issue. Once the first letter hits a Kawasaki top line executives with a documented problem during the warranty period it will get bounced to the folks that deal with the dealers. The boardroom guys really do not like to have a problem in their pockets and will always get the forces in play to solve the problem.

To avoid warranty problems pick a dealer that moves a lot of Mules and deals with the farming and mining industries, and have a sales force that has been around for a while. Interview the service manager, and tour their shop. All the reputable dealers will make this happen. The scam guys will make some excuse that their insurance does not cover customers in the shop, the real dealers will go out of their way to introduce you to the players either before or after normal hours.

As far as the winch bracket being backwards, I would just grab the heavy drill and make new holes and not screw around with the warranty unless there appears to be a structural weakness issue involved. If you do not have the tools, just have a chat with the dealer's service manager and give them the option of relocating holes for you at no cost to you. Most will just do it to have a happy customer.

[jonesj65@hotmai]

Thanks for the recovery tank info, I think that I will order it down at the mower shop this week.

As far as my winch bracket being backwards, Your suggestion about drilling was my intent untill I showed it to my dealer. The bracket, which also bolts to the front diff. is not mounted level, it is almost out of alignment with the front crossmember about 1/2 inch. This is why the warranty claim is being made. I was not gong to make the claim, but the dealer wanted to go that route.

Thanks for all of your replies
John

[RCW]

One thing you do need to know, the warranty allowances are generally less than the shop time involved so dealers end up taking it in the shorts with complex warranty issues. If you have a good dealer, work with them to help the process and you will be much more welcome the next time you need their services.