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Old 06-01-2005   #1 (permalink)
Depmodeche
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Default Alaska

Well, took a side trip from Tok the other night and rode down to Chicken, Alaska. http://www.chickenalaska.com/chicken/index.html

It's bout 80 miles off the Alaska Highway, down the Taylor "Top Of The World" Highway. What a ride, and what an awesome place! When I pulled up, sitting on the porch was the owner, who fixed me with a cautious stare and said, "Where ya from?" "New Hope, PA. Near Philly," I replied. "Me, too," she said, (altough she's been in Alaska for 20 years) and then offered me the a place to sleep in her unused trailer for the night! I told her I already had a room in Tok, but I'll have a drink and some chillie. She is 50 (looks 25), beautiful, friendly and funny, and gave me a ChickenBiker Pin after we sat at the bar shooting the breeze for a while. The handful of folks hanging around the bar or sitting on the porch were friendly and fun, and it was quite an experience. The population here is about 15. No running water, no electricity (except for the generator) and no phone, TV or internet (the website is maintained elsewhere). Oh yes, and don't let me forget the outouse. I think most of the folks who live there are gold miners, and as far as I can tell these folks are real Alaskans. If you ever get to Alaska, get to Chicken!

Left Tok Monday morning and rode to Fairbanks. It was a quick 200 mile ride and I planned an easy day in Fairbanks in preparation of riding to the Arctic Circle on Tuesday. But, since they were calling for rain the rest of the week, and it was 70 and sunny on Monday, I said the heck with it and headed up to the Arctic circle that afternoon. I figured I'd make it up and back in about seven or eight hours, after all, it's only 180 miles each way. Ten and a half hours later, at 4:30 in the morning eastern time I made it back! And believe me when I tell ya I was riding almost the whole time.

The Dalton Highway! Gravel, dust, washboard ruts, huge tractor-trailers (it's THEIR road) squeezing past at 50 miles an hour! Did I mention the gravel? What an adventure. 110 miles of brutal, punishing gravel road for three minutes snapping photos of my Nomad in front of the Arctic Circle sign! Why only three minutes? The mosquitoes there were about the same size as my nomad, that's why.

The Dalton is one long, lonely road. The last road in North America. Follows the route of the Alaskan Pipeline, which is visible along side the road most of the way. Barely two lanes wide; no shoulder; sheer drop-offs at times; sharp curves with steep, soft gravel banks. I started out at 30 MPH, scared to death of getting a flat or laying her down--heard too many horror stories about The Dalton. (Towing back to Fairbanks from The Dalton Highway starts at $1,500.00!) Soon was riding at about 60 MPH, whipping the back end of my Nomad around in that gravel like an ice-track racer! I think I got her airborne a few times, and though she must be wondering what she did to deserve such punishment, the bike performed flawlessly. (Althugh I noticed the next day that one of the nuts on the exhaust header had fallen off and was laying on the motor. I put it back on and tightened 'em up)

At 120 miles on the trip meter, I finally reached the first gas stop, at the Yukon River, still 60 miles from the Circle. Ten dollars for three gallons of gas, and I realized that I wouldn't be back there on my return trip until after they closed for the night. Without this gas stop there was no way I was making it back to Fairbanks. The fella said there was another gas stop 5 miles down the road, but he didn't know if "Theresa" would stay open that night or not, so he filled up a jerry-can with four gallons of fuel and left it behind the building! What a guy.

On the way back from the Arctic Cirlce, along side the road, was a big, brown grizzly! I took some photos, and me and the grizzly exchanged a few glances indicating our mutual respect. At least that's what I tell myself that big bear was doing. I kept my distance, and didn't pull over and stop until I had PASSED the bear. I wanted my front tire pointed away from him.

Had an incredilbe ride back, didn't see another soul for hours, except for the grizzly (I'll be mentioning the grizzly sighting every few sentences for the remainder of my post. Please forgive me.) and the odd tractor-trailer hauling ***, delivering supplies up to the Arctic Ocean. The rule there is to pull over and stop and let them pass. They do NOT slow down, nor do they have to. It is truly thier road. By now the sun had gone down as far as it goes in those parts this time of year, and there was a blue, soft-light haze. Magic hour. Permanant twilight. It was too cool to even describe. That pinkish, blue light illuminaiting the mountain ranges; a golden glow over it all--what a sight.

Got back to Fairbanks and was so delirious that I thought I heard on CNN that Deepthroat's identity had been confirmed by The Washington Post. Ha! I must have really been out of it.

Dropped the bike off today at the dealer in Fairbanks for a complete service and to have those new parts installed on the cooling system. We'll see if that solves the high-idle problem.

Ride safe.

Dep
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Last edited by Depmodeche : 06-01-2005 at 05:23 PM.
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Old 06-01-2005   #2 (permalink)
TBVulcan
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Absolutely incredible!! Keep those stories coming...and I'm sure their are pics correct! Keep the shiny side up as well! (though I bet the poor nomad isn't all that shiny about now!)
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Old 06-01-2005   #3 (permalink)
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An awesome read, I am truly envious. Thanks for the updates. Keep safe.
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Old 06-01-2005   #4 (permalink)
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fantastic story i have always wanted to go to alaska now i want to even more wow what an adventure
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Old 06-01-2005   #5 (permalink)
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Lived in Fairbanks from 1953 to 1966 and your post brought back many memories of how real Alaskan people will treat you. Once they accept you they will give you the shirt of their back's, never seen it anywhere else in my travels. I remember riding my Honda Superhawk on that gravel not much fun!
Keep posting notes on your trip, very exciting
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Old 06-01-2005   #6 (permalink)
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WOW, you are adventurous, tough & have guts. What a story!

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Old 06-01-2005   #7 (permalink)
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WOW...that sums it up...WOW

Keep em coming, Dep...we're all mesmerized!
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Old 06-01-2005   #8 (permalink)
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Awesome! Keep us updated!
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Old 06-01-2005   #9 (permalink)
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I lived in Anchorage for nine years. Ahh the memories. Never made it out to Chicken though

Smart move getting past the bear before stopping. I wouldn't have stopped, especially if you have food on the bike.

It does sound like a ride of a lifetime though
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Old 06-02-2005   #10 (permalink)
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Sounds like there's going to be a book/movie come out of all this. WOW!
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Old 06-02-2005   #11 (permalink)
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Just incredible!

Keep it coming.

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Old 06-02-2005   #12 (permalink)
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MAN Dep...Your hardcore!!!

Wondering what inspired this trip?

Excellent report and here's wishing you well on your trip! I've heard about the mosquitoes in Alaska from my mother and sister (sister lives in Fairbanks) and mother visited my sister there and said she would never go back as she thought she was going to become a live meal for the mosquitoes. My sister confirmed that!

Be Safe!
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Old 06-22-2006   #13 (permalink)
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I lived in Anchorage for 3 years (Elmondorf AFB) in '69. We drove the Alkan(sp?) highway when it was gravel! Of course, got a broken winshield (trucker too!). Saw bears along the highway (all kinds of wildlife actually!)

I would move to Alaska in a heartbeat. Mosquitos only carry away the smallest of children anyways!

So Dep, where are the pics? Did I miss them? I mean, it's not legal to post a great trip like that, mention all these cool pics of the artic circle, and NOT post pics - right!?

Isn't the Artic circle always light this time of year? You said permenent twilight - isn't the definition of the Artic circle mean that it is bathed in light for 6 months at a time?

Quote:
they will give you the shirt of their back's
Heck, some will even give you their wives for the night!

Thanks for sharing Dep!

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Old 06-22-2006   #14 (permalink)
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It's interesting that you resurrected this thread, Pat, since I'm just now reading Neil Peart's account of his adventures riding through Alaska on his BMW. Sounds so much like Depmodeche's story!

Two of my first cousins moved to Alaska many years ago, and they've never come back. They love it.
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Old 06-23-2006   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jukief
Two of my first cousins moved to Alaska many years ago, and they've never come back. They love it.
My advice- go and visit. See the sights. Then get the *#@% out before winter
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Old 06-23-2006   #16 (permalink)
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An advice would be, if you're anemic......eat more iron supplements if you're afraid of the skeeters....if they're half bad as they are at the artic circle back home in Norway....you'll need every ounce of blood you can keep.
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Old 06-23-2006   #17 (permalink)
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Wow ! What a ride .
Gravel , trucks & bears , Oh my !
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Old 06-23-2006   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
I'm just now reading Neil Peart's account
THE Neal Peart? Ah, I love Rush! Actually most all my music taste is stuck in the '80's! I've seen Rush in concert more than any other band. And Rush (IMHO) puts on the best shows too!

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Old 06-23-2006   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huxley
THE Neal Peart? Ah, I love Rush! Actually most all my music taste is stuck in the '80's! I've seen Rush in concert more than any other band. And Rush (IMHO) puts on the best shows too!

Pat(rick)

Welcome to the forum Huxley. A Rush fan 'eh? You are gonna be in good comapny here.

As far as the pictures from the original post, the thread is a year old and the pictures must not be around anymore.
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Old 06-23-2006   #20 (permalink)
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What an amazing story! And to live to tell it! Truly amazing!
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