Help!!! Oil Leak!

[Man O Fire]

Okay, I just noticed an oil leak on the lower left front of my bike. It appears to be dripping slowly right behind the kickstand. The kickstand is actually covered in oil as well. I checked the filter, drain bolt and they are dry. It is not a huge puddle of oil but a steady drip. Does anyone have any idea where this could be coming from? The bike is going to have to sit until Tuesday when I get off work. The bike is a 2007 Vulcan 1600 classic. Please help!!!!!!!

[mwmalotte]

I would imagine you're going to have to get a rag and try and wipe it dry to see exactly where it is coming from. I've seen leaks that start on one side of a motor and drip on the opposite side

[SakiRider01]

I believe you have a worn "o" ring. Have a mechanic replace the push rod "o" ring and you will be fine. It's about a 1/2 hour job.

[Man O Fire]

Push rod O ring. Unfortunately I'm limited with my wrenching abilities. Pretty much oil changes and bolt ons for me. Where might the push rod be located in relation to the lower engine case? My other concern is that the bike is going to have to sit for 3-4 days before I can get it to the shop. Wondering if I can ride it the 10 miles to the shop or will I have to call someone to trailer it. I did wipe off the oil with a rag but it is hard to tell the origin of the leak.

[Dudester]

Check the oil window, if it's down a bit, just top it off, and then immediately ride it to a dealer or mechanic. If it's a major oil leak, have someone come and pick it up.

[RichLockyer]

It is the clutch pushrod o-ring.
Fortunately, on an '07, it's not worn out yet. It was improperly installed at the factory... happened on mine and it's been a common failure on the '06 and '07. It was unheard of prior to the '06 model year.

Fortunately, it's a half hour fix, no lift needed (but it makes it a little easier for working height). If you can change the oil, you can fix this and it won't cost you a dime.

1 - Remove the left rear floorboard bracket bolt (17mm... 1/2" drive breaker bar helps, it's tight).
2 - Loosen the left front floorboard bolt and allow the floorboard to swing down. If you don't have crash bars, go ahead and remove it to give you a little more room.
3 - Remove the shift levers. Be careful... once torque is broken, or feels like it SHOULD be broken, if the screws are still tight they are binding on the shaft and you WILL destroy the threads. Gently tap the levers toward or away from the engine until the bolts turn easily.
4 - Remove the 4 allen bolts that retain the left engine cover (no oil will come out except what's leaked out from the bad seal).
5 - Clean the mess out of the bottom of the side cover.
6 - Pull the clutch lever in and secure it to the grip with a couple of zip-ties.
7 - Remove the 3 allen bolts that retain the clutch slave cylinder. NOTE the position of the plastic spacer between the cylinder and the case, make sure to reassemble the same way.
8 - Look inside the cavity behind the slave cylinder... you'll probably see the seal spinning free on the clutch pushrod and you'll see a hole in the case. Gently press the seal into the opening in the case hard enough to make it "stick" but don't try to fully seat it by hand.
9 - Slip a fender washer over the pushrod and up against the seal. NOW, press the seal firmly back into the case so it is flush. There is no lip on the outside, so the washer is important to ensure that the seal both goes in squarely, and is not pushed all the way into the transmission.

Reverse steps 1-7 (omitting 5) to reassemble and you're done.

With the engine cover off, it would normally be a good time to change the clutch fluid and bleed the system. It is an '07, and this should be done every 2 years. Bleed the same as a brake system... easier with a "Mighty-Vac" or speed bleeders, but the procedure is the same as for brakes.

[rbentnail]

Sounds like Rich, once again, has it all under control but I want to throw in my .02. Baby powder and a big-bulbed turkey baster makes it really easy to track down an oil or coolant leak. Especially coolant since it evaporates. It'll leave a trail. Just dust on the powder like the do on tv for fingerprints.

[Ruger]

I was watching a show on the Science Channel about how they are trying to "download" the data from a persons brain, so they could preserve that knowledge, and access it. Some day they hope to be able to "upload" that knowledge back into another "brain" or clone. I think we need to get Rich signed up for this - we can't afford to loose his "database".

[CTRider]

I had the very same thing happen on my bike: bad O-Ring on the push rod. It required the following to fix it on my Honda:

- Remove shift lever
- Remove lower side cover
- Unhook clutch fluid hose from frame hook
- Remove 3 bolts to remove clutch slave
- Remove piston chamber
- Wrestle with O-Ring that was well fused into the chamber
- Insert new O-Ring
- Replace piston chamber
- Depress piston into pneumatic assembly (so it will go over the pushrod) and place it back onto engine
- Screw the three screws back on
- Hook clutch hose back into place
- Replace side cover
- Reconnect shifter

It wasn't hard - just time consuming and a bit fussy.

[06Streaker]

It is the clutch pushrod o-ring.
Fortunately, on an '07, it's not worn out yet. It was improperly installed at the factory... happened on mine and it's been a common failure on the '06 and '07. It was unheard of prior to the '06 model year.

Fortunately, it's a half hour fix, no lift needed (but it makes it a little easier for working height). If you can change the oil, you can fix this and it won't cost you a dime.

1 - Remove the left rear floorboard bracket bolt (17mm... 1/2" drive breaker bar helps, it's tight).
2 - Loosen the left front floorboard bolt and allow the floorboard to swing down. If you don't have crash bars, go ahead and remove it to give you a little more room.
3 - Remove the shift levers. Be careful... once torque is broken, or feels like it SHOULD be broken, if the screws are still tight they are binding on the shaft and you WILL destroy the threads. Gently tap the levers toward or away from the engine until the bolts turn easily.
4 - Remove the 4 allen bolts that retain the left engine cover (no oil will come out except what's leaked out from the bad seal).
5 - Clean the mess out of the bottom of the side cover.
6 - Pull the clutch lever in and secure it to the grip with a couple of zip-ties.
7 - Remove the 3 allen bolts that retain the clutch slave cylinder. NOTE the position of the plastic spacer between the cylinder and the case, make sure to reassemble the same way.
8 - Look inside the cavity behind the slave cylinder... you'll probably see the seal spinning free on the clutch pushrod and you'll see a hole in the case. Gently press the seal into the opening in the case hard enough to make it "stick" but don't try to fully seat it by hand.
9 - Slip a fender washer over the pushrod and up against the seal. NOW, press the seal firmly back into the case so it is flush. There is no lip on the outside, so the washer is important to ensure that the seal both goes in squarely, and is not pushed all the way into the transmission.

Reverse steps 1-7 (omitting 5) to reassemble and you're done.

With the engine cover off, it would normally be a good time to change the clutch fluid and bleed the system. It is an '07, and this should be done every 2 years. Bleed the same as a brake system... easier with a "Mighty-Vac" or speed bleeders, but the procedure is the same as for brakes.

+1

[RichLockyer]

I was watching a show on the Science Channel about how they are trying to "download" the data from a persons brain, so they could preserve that knowledge, and access it. Some day they hope to be able to "upload" that knowledge back into another "brain" or clone. I think we need to get Rich signed up for this - we can't afford to loose his "database".

Ehh... I got some sh** in there that you wouldn't want.
Hmmm... then again, maybe you would... especially the one with Japanese twins