CWI Driving Lights, Part 2

[NY_Guy]

Got the Smart Switch in the mail Friday and wired the lights today. It's a pretty straight forward process: I used the accessory outlet by the radiator for power and ground, then ran the two remaining leads to the headlight can (double-wrapped with black electrical tape). Inside the can, I spliced one lead into the high-beam wire (soldering the connection and taping). The wires (one each) from the driving lights follow the same paths as the turn signals into the can, and I used a wire nut to connect with the remaining Smart Switch lead and taped. The single black wire from each driving light is inconspicuous.

I wasn't able to find enough room in the headlight can for the Smart Switch without cramming the headlight back into the can, and didn't want to have part of it sticking out of the back of the can near the steering stem. So I just put the switch (about 2.5" x 1") under the speedometer and connected to the accessory outlet by crimping some flat, male prong-type connectors.

There is one kinda weird thing, though: the driving lights stay on if they're on when the bike's turned off. You have to make sure the driving lights are off when the bike's turned off, or the battery will be run down for sure. I went back over the Nomad shop manual wiring diagram, and it's connected to the high-beam wire as recommended. To turn on the driving lights, you go from low beam to high beam; if you swich to low beam, the lights stay on; if you then go to high beam, the lights turn off (and will stay off if you go back to low beam); etc.

I love the looks of the driving lights (about 4" in diameter), set next to the healight. They also put out BRIGHT light but I don't know the wattage (I checked Scooter Works, where I bought them, and CWI for info, with no luck). When one of the bulbs burns out, I'll probably replace with PIAA bulbs (which I have in the headlight now). Aside from the fact the driving lights will run down my battery if I don't pay close attention, I'd highly recommend them. (Scooter Works sells them for $190 and the Smart Switch for $40, free shipping on orders over $200).

[ryanmross]

With some wiring magic, you can wire in a relay.
Think of it as a switch that connects & disconnects the 12v connection you have now..The relay would be inline, and the lights will function exactly as they do now with on/off, but when you turn you ignition off, no matter how you left them, the will turn off.

If you are interested I can try to draw up a diagram..

-Ryan

[ryanmross]

Here is a diagram..

This can be used for many things (horns, lights,etc..) it's a simple switch.
Basically, if 85 is grounded, and 86 gets power, then 87 & 30 are in contact with eachother...


Let me know if this helps.

Use a standard automotive 12v relay..


-Ryan

[ispeed77]

Ryan, it sounds like there is already a relay in his smart switch. if he tapped off of the extra power wires, but still needed to tap into the headlight, then i am thinking there is a built-in relay. the power wires you tapped into must be constant power. once the headlight comes on the relay closes and you have the power to the driving lights. strange that the relay would not work in the off condition though, so maybe i am reading the description wrong, that's been known to happen.....

[NY_Guy]

I sent CWI an email, asking about this (haven't heard back yet). There is constant power off the accessory lines (front and back, under spedo and seat, respectively), but I thought the Smart Switch was a relay and would turn off when the bike's power went off.

The instructions say the following re: connections:
Motorcycle high beam ---- orange wire (Smart Switch)
Auxilliary Lights positive wire ---- white wire (Smart Switch)
12 volts positive --- yellow (Smart Switch)
Ground --- black (Smart Switch)

The driving lights gound off the frame and the lead from each (positive) is wired to the white wire off the Smart Switch. Either the switch isn't so "smart" after all, or I'm missing something!

[ispeed77]

yeah, i would be interested to hear what they have to say. it certainly sounds like a relay, but without an off feature. i am not real familiar with relays, but maybe a single-way relay is common, not sure.

[ryanmross]

Or a wiring problem..
Some switched 'hot' wires show a ground when off..

[ispeed77]

Originally Posted by ryanmross

Or a wiring problem..
Some switched 'hot' wires show a ground when off..

good point

[NY_Guy]

Thanks for all the good feedback. After mulling this over, I think the problem lies in the fact that the power supply is constant, rather than tied to the bike's ignition (there needs to be a relay between the power and the Smart Switch). Given the way CWI recommends wiring the lights, all the relay does is complete the circuit when the high beams are activated. It stays on because of the constant power supply. Do I want to install another relay BEFORE the Smart Switch, tied to the ignition... dunno know. After I run down the battery the first time, I'll be at the local auto store, buying a relay like the one Ryan described. Live and learn...

[ispeed77]

Originally Posted by NY_Guy

Thanks for all the good feedback. After mulling this over, I think the problem lies in the fact that the power supply is constant, rather than tied to the bike's ignition (there needs to be a relay between the power and the Smart Switch). Given the way CWI recommends wiring the lights, all the relay does is complete the circuit when the high beams are activated. It stays on because of the constant power supply. Do I want to install another relay BEFORE the Smart Switch, tied to the ignition... dunno know. After I run down the battery the first time, I'll be at the local auto store, buying a relay like the one Ryan described. Live and learn...

i don't recall offhand, but have you looked into one of the other power spots on the bike ? i know there is one by the battery, but i don't recall if it is constant or on the ignition. i don't remember if there is another one. i think Gadget has that info on his site.