VULCAN COOLANT LEAK KNOWLEDGE BASE - Page 3 - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
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post #21 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 11:49 PM
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After reading the expert advice here I finally got rid of the dreaded anti-freeze smell on my '05 1600 classic. Hose from radiator up to the cap took right at 5 complete turns to tighten up. That was definately where my odor was coming from. Actually had a green trail running down and it was all crapped up around that hose. The other hoses took a little snugging but were basically good.
Dudester, like you, I was a little skittish of trying to remove the tank that first time. I took my sweet ever-lovin' time so I didn't screw up too bad and still only took me about 30 miinutes to yank the tank, tighten every hose I could find and put the tank back on.
Thanks for the advice and how-to guys.

2005 Vulcan 1600 Classic
Accessories are an addiction and I gotta have my fix!
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post #22 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 12:48 PM
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Has anyone had this problem? The rubber dampers that hold the radiator in place become worn, wallowed out, allowing the bottem front of the radiator to move forward slightly, causing the drain plug bolt/nipple to rub/vibrate against the crash bar and create a stress crack on the drain plug nipple at the base of the radiator. This is a 1600 vulcan classic.
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post #23 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-17-2012, 12:36 AM
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I have a 2007 Vulcan 1500 F1 Classic. Currently has 4,600 kilo (2400 miles) and I have had this leak since I bought it. I never drove much and originally there was not enough of a leak for them to find anything. The little riding I did do, I was always able to smell antifreeze but did notice on the crank case on the cylinder facing back of the bike a couple drops of glycol. I took it in for a service and to have the dealer to look and replace the faulty gasket. To my surprise, I received a call today that this gasket replacement was going to be a 14 to 15 hour job at $115. per hour. So, they stopped the work and only did the maintenance and called to break the news to me. Apparently they would have to pull the frame apart, pull the engine out and replace the back water gasket. Sine I hardly ride, of course I was very disappointed in have to spend up to 2k for what appeared to be maybe a $200 to $300 fix. I was tempted and still contemplating on buying a new bike but was really looking at something different and not a Kawasaki brand. I came home very disappointed and left the bike at the dealership. They are trying to get me to look at the 1700cc's (Nomad or Vaquero). While not getting much for a trade in was disappointing since low mileage and has never been outside other than during a ride (it sits in my garage). I started to search on the net and came across this forum. As I went through I have experienced exactly what each of you have posted. I am going to pick the bike up tomorrow (if it does not snow as they call for), and going to try and pull the fuel tank and see if I can get at those hoses. My other disappointment is that, as a dealer you would think they would be aware of this common issue of loose hoses. My question anyone is, if in fact it is not a loose clamp, would Barrs Leak work or is that a no no for bikes? I cant also see how it would take 14 hours to pull that all apart for an intake gasket but I am taking their word for it. I will try what has been explained on these links and hopefully this will save me a new bike. I will say, my wife and I have grown fond of the 2012 Honda Goldwing but that will depend on the success of the hose clamps. Thanks for any input or advice. I just find this disappointing!
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post #24 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-17-2012, 04:24 AM
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Go after those clamps! I'd bet dollars to doughnuts that's where your problem is. I'd hate to think the dealer is trying to rob you but it's always possible. If it is the clamps then you can spend a little time and save yourself a ton of money. If that doesn't fix it then go for the Barr's leak. Just use a VERY small amount because your cooling system is a tenth the size of a car system. I have a PT Cruiser that was seeping from the thermostat housing down on the block. EVERYTHING under the hood of this car is impossible to get to so I put a bit of the Barr's leaks "Liquid Aluminum" in and it did the trick. No more leak. As long as you don't pour the entire bottle in the bike it should be completely safe but only use it as a last resort. Remember it's just a band aid.....


2004 Vulcan 500
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post #25 of 50 (permalink) Old 04-02-2012, 01:47 AM
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Yep..... my 2006 Nomad leaked from all the undertank hoses you identify. I sure do like my Nomad but one must wonder at the complete blank-headed engineering/assembly skills that have produced the same friggin' leakage problem year after year....model after model. Same kinda cement heads that consistently produce bikes with that damned headlight rattle....weak clutches and even worse...engines that ping worse that a Chevy diesel truck.

Thanks to much help here and other boards all these problems have been fixed (by me and Guy Mobley)...the Reno dealer never would admit any of these were problems "they all do that" was his standard reply.

All is good now. Sure do love my bike, just wish Kawa engineers were more attentive to these kinda issues...and my useless dealer was worth two red cents....

Regards to you all,


Paul "Slots" Manske
Reno, NV
2006 Nomad 1600
NRA Life Endowment Member...and proud of it !!!
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post #26 of 50 (permalink) Old 04-08-2012, 05:33 PM
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hello i have the same prob. as you i have a 98 Vulcan 800 leaking in same area as chaz from the rear of the cyl. to the crank case. was wondering if you figured it out thanks
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post #27 of 50 (permalink) Old 05-16-2012, 01:18 PM
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Gettin ready 2 bust into mine for minor leak thats been there for a few yrs.Not a problem just got the smell and loose maybe 2 cups a yr.Dont slow it down any !!!!
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post #28 of 50 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 01:06 PM
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When it gets around 100 or more which it is now doing I just started hearing a whistle when I turn it off like when your car is over heating. Put antifreeze in her & did not take very little. I will tighten up the clamps hope that will take care of the whistle.

thanks red
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post #29 of 50 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 01:29 PM
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The whistle is generally just expanding air escaping from the gas tank.
It happens on most bikes as they heat up.
I remember someone here referred to it as the bike simply whistling it's happiness to be out in the sun, or a thanks for the ride whistle as you walk away.

remitto tibi hoc
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post #30 of 50 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 05:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Box View Post
The whistle is generally just expanding air escaping from the gas tank.
It happens on most bikes as they heat up.
I remember someone here referred to it as the bike simply whistling it's happiness to be out in the sun, or a thanks for the ride whistle as you walk away.
Yeah, I've been hearing that from lots of bikes lately. A 1500 the other day was just as happy as they come!

Words aren't children and there's nothing wrong with killing them to clarify a point or keep the peace.
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