Paint, Paint, Paint

[MatSox]

Hello! I am in the process of putting together two fenders and a tank so I can paint them. They are not the ones on my bike; they are old and out of service, just need a new cover. I was thinking of doing the paint on them with little experience with auto painting. I would like to do it myself and it will give me something to do over the long Connecticut winter. Anyone have any recommendations besides not doing it? What kind of things to get and all. Thanks for your help!

[Spok]

painting? I've got no clue. Somebody here will have some lessons learned to share with you. good luck

[MatSox]

Hopefully so.. I will definatly have to do some before and afters if it comes out well.

[Spok]

oh, we like pictures

[2WheelFun]

Do a search on MotoLappa as he did some incredible paint work on his bikes. I did find one link that has additional links that may be helpful.

http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/fo...ead.php?t=7516

[bikeaholic]

strip the tins-

you'll need some bondo/spot putty unless they are in good shape
plenty of sandpaper both dry and wet dry
some wax and grease remover
a good hi-build primer surfacer(you pick the brand ,i have my favorite)
lots of elbow grease
a good base coat(color)
a good clear coat(topcoat)
more wet/dry paper
a buffer
and some good polish

bam! - your done

[Scruffy]

I always do mine with spray cans. I've had really good luck with PlastiKote etching primier, topcoated with DupliColor for color and clear. Have yet to have to cut and buff a clearcoat. Takes a couple months to fully cure in the winter though.

For real paints, I generally use PPG. Specifically Deltron or Delthane. Easy spraying, quick curing, flows out smoothly. Just use one system all the way through and you'll be fine.

I've painted a couple hundred bikes via the two methods listed. Including a couple show winners. It's worth the effort and time.
-Scruffy

[BigJohn]

I concur with Scruffie. I did my Z1 in Immron out of a spray can. You don't have to settle for whatever is in the shops' case. Go to a paint company and you can have them mix a custom color and put it in a spray can for you.

[Spok]

Moparman (kim) had a rattlecan paint job on his 800 lastyear in Red Lodge. tho it needed a clearcoat to make it shiny, it wasn't a bad cover. It was done in a hurry as kim was working feverishly to get the bike back together to make the trip, I think given more time his paint job would've been just fine.

[KawiCruzer]

Cool thread guys, I was thinking of doing my own paint on my 800 Classic and find this info great. We have a sandblast booth at work and I am sure for a case of beer the guys would blast my tank and fenders, would that be okay or is there a risk of damaging the tins?

[2WheelFun]

Originally Posted by KawiCruzer

Cool thread guys, I was thinking of doing my own paint on my 800 Classic and find this info great. We have a sandblast booth at work and I am sure for a case of beer the guys would blast my tank and fenders, would that be okay or is there a risk of damaging the tins?

You can blast anything with the correct media and skill set.

[john.winslow]

napa auto parts can give you any color paint in a spray bomb, and the key to a good job is take your time. wet sand, wet sand, and wetsand. you can make agreat spray booth with some poly, a shower curtain and a couple of shop lights like 4 foot flouresant hang them vertical one on the left of you one on the right make sure you give yourself room to hang your parts use large fishing swevels to hang your parts on.
if you can go to a paint shop and watch them for a while. wear a face mask with a air tube to the freash air if you paint inside. just afew things to add to the great responces so far.

[john.winslow]

i just found out when you paint a fuel tank be sure that in the filler hole the paint should be not be within 1/8 th of an inch of the area that the gas cap seal sets on or you will get migration of fuel under the paint and it will bubble and peal

[BigJohn]

Originally Posted by john.winslow

i just found out when you paint a fuel tank be sure that in the filler hole the paint should be not be within 1/8 th of an inch of the area that the gas cap seal sets on or you will get migration of fuel under the paint and it will bubble and peal

That is absolutley correct, Mr Winslow. Plug the filler and around the neck. Then tape off the outlets, leaving some space for the fuel lines to connect. That should keep the fuel and pains seperate.

[MatSox]

What is Wet Sand?

[woodchucks800]

Originally Posted by spok

Moparman (kim) had a rattlecan paint job on his 800 lastyear in Red Lodge. tho it needed a clearcoat to make it shiny, it wasn't a bad cover. It was done in a hurry as kim was working feverishly to get the bike back together to make the trip, I think given more time his paint job would've been just fine.

Sorry Spock but that paint job was gonna need more than a clear top coat to make it look good.

[woodchucks800]

Originally Posted by whistle clean

You can blast anything with the correct media and skill set.

You better know how to use a sand blaster , unless you like to fill pits put in you metal from the medium. The best thing for cycle parts is to just sand it off with 80 grit paper an a power sander. Don't power sand the plastic parts thoough.

[woodchucks800]

Originally Posted by MatSox

What is Wet Sand?

Wet sanding is when you use your sand paper after it's been soaking in water . After you clean up the parts to prime an then apply the 1 or 2 coats of primer you'll need to wet sand with 600 grit wet/dry paper. Apply your coats of base color ,then a couple of coats of clear. let it dry for 24 hrs an then wet sand with 600 again. Apply 2 or 3 coats of clear again an let dry for at least 24 ot 48 hrs an then wet sand with 2000 grit (some call it color sanding at this point) After you have color sanded your parts you'll need to polish with a buffer an polish an glaze to remove the sanding marks from the 2000 grit an also bring out the shine. By color sanding an polishing you'll remove any small dust particials that might have gotten in the finish coat not to mention that it will look like the professional job that your wanting in the first place. with todays clearcoat paints (just about all you'll buy at the local auto paint shop) you don't sand between the base coat an the clearcoat or you'll screw up the base coat. If you want to use 20 bucks worth of rattle can paint to do your job then thats what it'll look like when your done a 20 dollar paint job. Most rattle can auto paints won't hold up to the weather because they don't have enough uv protectents in the paint (if any at all) compared to the 2 part paints that the pro's use. one last thing, if you want this job to last you need to use a epoxy primer on the bare metals before youdo any other painting. here's a site that will lead you in the right direction on appling an finishing the paint. You just have to look around the site an check into the tech manual pages that they supply to find out the right way to achive a professional job. The painting is the easy part ,the prepping (before the paint) an the polishing (after the paint) is where the work is at. www.houseofkolor.com

[2WheelFun]

Originally Posted by woodchucks800

You better know how to use a sand blaster , unless you like to fill pits put in you metal from the medium. The best thing for cycle parts is to just sand it off with 80 grit paper an a power sander. Don't power sand the plastic parts thoough.

Understood. That's why I mentioned the right media and skill set. Anyone can destroy anything blasting in seconds but I've seen some guys who knew what they were doing and turned out some impressive work.

[MatSox]

Thanks everyone for all of the input. I'm glad the thread took off and was useful. This will be along process as a hobby over the winter. I will certainly show the finished product in the distant future Thanks again!