Vulcan 800 Classic vs. Boulevard C50

[oletaterhead]

My previous ride was an 02 Volusia (C50).

I parted with her for financial reasons, wish I never had. That was one great bike.

Don't get me wrong, I am thrilled with my Drifter, but I had that Volusia EXACTLY the way I wanted it, and I got looks everywhere.

I really don't think you could go wrong in the midsize class as long as you stay metric.

[Scruffy]

I don't use fifth because I don't need to consistently cruise at 100 plus.

As for chain maintenance, I bought my bike with 8805 miles on it. Chain had never been cleaned or lubed as far as I could tell. I hit it with some penetrating oil and reset it the other day. I had a chain on a Panhead that had over 100K miles on it, was still going strong the last time I spoke to the new owner, with almost 200K on that same chain. Quality chains (made in Sweden) need little attention after the initial break in stretching. They take and hold a set. Unlike cheap chains which keep stretching until you get mad and throw them away (BikeMaster and related discount garbage made in Taiwan).

I'll still take an easy to maintain carbed chain drive bike over an injected or shaft driven bike. I can fix a carb or chain on the side of the road.
-Scruffy

[eglass64]

how about a 1500.

[buellwinkle]

Originally Posted by eglass64

how about a 1500.

I prefer a big bore bike but I want something light enough for my 15 year old daughter to learn on for her license and still be big enough for me to commute 2-3 days a week. She's been riding dirt bikes since 9 so I'm not interested in a miniscule cruiser like the Honda Rebel so the next step up is the V-Star 650, C50, Vulcan or ACE, don't like the Honda or Yammy because of vibration so I narrowed it down to the C50 or Vulcan 800/900.

Scruffy,
Never realized a chain lasts that long, i though they were good for 10K miles max, might be worth a second look. As for fixing a carb vs. FI, I'll take FI any day, it's just an injector, clean it or throw it away, not a carb with jets that get clogged and need adjusting. Heck, most car mechanics under 50 have never seen a carburator unless they work on bikes or airplanes. I wonder if these FI bikes are OBDII complaint and throw codes like cars, that would be fantastic.

[JimFitz]

Changing the sprockets from the 17/42 to the 18/40 was the best thing I've done to my Scoot (along with Grampsizing). I dont pull a foot muscle anymore at 65 to 70 looking for 6th gear.

[JimFitz]

Buellwinkle,

Check out 2vulcans.net They show just what can be done to a 800 to make it "World Class"

Jim

[JimFitz]

By the way, My brother in law has a c50 Boulevard and I have a 800A.

He wishes he could change the gear ratio to cruise at a lower RPM like I did on my 800. But the shaft drive won't let him.

[buellwinkle]

Originally Posted by JimFitz

He wishes he could change the gear ratio to cruise at a lower RPM like I did on my 800. But the shaft drive won't let him.

So what you are saying is he got the shaft!

[woodchucks800]

If the choice is between the 800's ,get the vulcan it's better all the way around. most stock chains will last around 20,000 miles as long as you check them once in awhile( look it over every oil change an clean it if need be) The modern day o-ring chain doesn't need near the maintance the non o-ring chain needs( you can't lube an o-ring chain) too much oil or chain wax just makes road dirt an dust stick to an build up worse (which can work it's way down around the o-rings an wear at them like sandpaper) which makes the chain an spocket system wear out quicker. As far as the new 900 go's your knowledge is as good as anyones here since there's not much tech info out yet an there's not a member with one yet either.

[Scruffy]

Buellwinkle, I'm well under 50 years old. I just don't like 99% of the vehicles made after 1973 for Ford, 72 for Chev or 71 for Mopar. 2 of my 3 trucks have points, as does one car and the Willys (2 of which are still 6 volt with generators). I own 1 fuel injected vehicle, and it is broken (needs some fuel pulsation dampener thingy bobber bypassed). I'm still trying to get used to CDI and electric starters on motorcycles. I currently don't have any points/magneto bikes (but still looking) with kickstarters. I do NOT like modern technology. I still own Whitworth tools, yet haven't had a Brit bike in years.
-Scruffy
Sitting here hoping for a weather induced EMP...get some of the kids in their "mommy and daddy bought it for me" yuppie-mobiles off my roads.

[ppark]

Originally Posted by buellwinkle

I prefer a big bore bike but I want something light enough for my 15 year old daughter to learn on for her license and still be big enough for me to commute 2-3 days a week. She's been riding dirt bikes since 9 so I'm not interested in a miniscule cruiser like the Honda Rebel so the next step up is the V-Star 650, C50, Vulcan or ACE, don't like the Honda or Yammy because of vibration so I narrowed it down to the C50 or Vulcan 800/900.

Scruffy,
Never realized a chain lasts that long, i though they were good for 10K miles max, might be worth a second look. As for fixing a carb vs. FI, I'll take FI any day, it's just an injector, clean it or throw it away, not a carb with jets that get clogged and need adjusting. Heck, most car mechanics under 50 have never seen a carburator unless they work on bikes or airplanes. I wonder if these FI bikes are OBDII complaint and throw codes like cars, that would be fantastic.

Chain can last up to 7 times longer with these products:
http://www.pro-oiler.com/
http://www.scottoiler.com/

I use the Scottoiler on my ZRX but the Pro oiler seems to be more precise (and more expansive).

[g1nomad]

In one of my recent Rider magazines, the M50 flat out beat
the Honda 750, Vulcan 800 & the Harley 883cc Sportster.

I am just posting it as I have read it, not rode it.

I am thinking about getting a trike for my wife next year
that uses the Suzuki 805cc engine.
http://www.cherokeetrikes.com/1FF558AAD96C413EA3E5CE179ACCB864.asp?cat_id=C572D1 41773C46F0A65F365413364F5B&pc_key=9C7B29BA527D4E68 ABCA8CF3D003AEDA&retpage=%2F1FF558AAD96C413EA3E5CE 179ACCB864%2Easp&nm=Suzuki+Boulevard+C50&spath=Hom e+%3E+Available+Lehman+Models+%3E+Suzuki+Boulevard +C50&path=Home+%3E+Available+Lehman+Models+%3E+Suz uki+Boulevard+C50&sc_id=

Herb

[Xlr8n]

Originally Posted by Scruffy

I'll still take an easy to maintain carbed chain drive bike over an injected or shaft driven bike. I can fix a carb or chain on the side of the road.
-Scruffy

You wouldn't be on the side of the road with an injected, shaft-driven bike!

[Scruffy]

Hah! The only bike I ever completely obliterated was a shafty. 55 mph, the shaft blew up.

Have had EFI strand me more than once.

I rode a 1938 Chief to Sturgis several years ago. Literally blew half the carb off on the top of the big pass on I-90. 30 minutes later, the new carb was on and I was heading east.

Don't trust CDI units either. A paper match book and a dime will fix a set of points. Melt down a CDI, hope you have a tow plan and a cell phone...

Break a chain, 20 minutes later, away you go, under your own power. Break a shaft, better hope you have comprehensive insurance, the bike is usually toast...
-Scruffy

[Chuckster]

Scruffy,
How often do you have to adjust the chain on the Kawi 800? I have a friend that's looking to get back into riding and was considering the Kawi 800 classic vs. the Volusia 800. I'm currently helping him look for a good used bike.

[buellwinkle]

I'm finding that it's tough finding these bikes used, at least in So Cal. For example, a 2005 brand new leftover Vulcan 800 Classic runs just under $5,500 new and people are asking close to that for a few year old one. Same with the Volusia where people are asking $5k but a new 2006 runs 700-900 more. What I want to know is, relative to new prices, what's consider fair differential for a used bike, say one that's 2-3 years old, good condition, low miles? Would getting it for $500 cheaper be worth it, $1,000 cheaper, $2,000 cheaper? It's tough because you don't know how it was broken in, or if they have persistant mechanical problems, or if it was downed and had cosmetics repaired. For me, if I can find a nice bike for $3-4K I would get used, above $4K and I'ld get new.

[PresidentBigJon]

If you are wanting the right price you are either going to have to wait or be lucky. I got my 800A a year and a half ago with 900 miles on it for 3 grand. Deals are out there just keep looking.

[yammahoppy]

I would also think there might be a bunch of people that move up from the 800 to the 900 after the 900's are released. I'm not cause I love my 800.

[buellwinkle]

Good point, some people go for the new stuff when it comes out, drives the prices of the new bikes up but is hell for resale.

PresidentBigJon, fantastic deal for ya. I originally accepted a job 65 miles from home starting tomorrow but I just got an offer for one 5 miles away so my immediate rush is over and I can take my time looking for the right bike and chain drive doesn't bother me as much as I doubt I'll put more than 3K miles a year on it so a chain change would be years away.

[Scruffy]

I've adjusted my chain once in the 3 months I've had the bike, and that was because my rear brakes failed and I put the wheel back on too loose. I've been thrashing on the bike, riding on grit covered roads, smacking the throttle hard enough to pull the front end if I'm not careful. The chain hasn't stretched at all. Set it right, it's a maybe once a year issue. My last Panhead, the chain was adjusted at 10K miles, and wasn't touched until I sold the bike with another 80K miles on it. Took it off, cleaned it properly, lubed it properly (parrafin dissolved in agricultural diesel, it was a solid roller chain) by soaking for a couple days, dried it, and reinstalled it. If the bike isn't jerking when you get on the throttle, the chain is fine. I set mine to 1/2 of factory recommended slack, works better and lasts longer, for ME.
-Scruffy