2007 Vulcan 1500 Clutch issues - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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2007 Vulcan 1500 Clutch issues

So, to begin, this is my first bike, got it shortly after I turned 18 this last november, picked it up with 26K miles, the previous owner took exceptional care, infact the manual has everything logged up to 18K ish (Diff changes, oil changes, and even when he converted to synthetic) when I got the bike from his dad (whom he sold it too in a time of need) he said the oil only had around 50 miles on it (this is not logged). But after putting just under 2k miles on it in the matter of just over two months I started having clutch issues. When the oil would get to temperature (or a bit after the bike was at running temp) and my hydraulic clutch would stop working, I did some digging and read about the holes so I made sure those was free, ran the bike around the block and let it run until the fan kicked on about twice and the clutch was working fine so I had assumed I managed to clear out what ever may have been in their, drove it to town the next day(15 miles @ 65mph), worked fine, got to school, fine, headed to college and bam, no clutch. So I managed to pull off to the side, let the bike cool down enough to where I had some pressure in the clutch to get going and drove it home (thank God I did not have to come to complete stops, small town for the win, even watched the light go green as I was getting close to it). I did some more homework and read that as the fluid absorbs water it is no longer functional when hot (which is crazy being it is completely sealed, but it did have 26K on it) so I replaced it and Bam! That seemed to fix that issue. Now the reason for all of that is when I am accelerating it pulls, starts moving, then I give it more, and it is not pulling any harder like clutch is sliping. I have not noticed this until I replaced the fluid, it was pulling until it could not pull anymore, now I do not know if maybe I did not flush the fluid right as it disengages just fine, so it is keeping it from engageing completely or are my clutch plates going out? If you think that it is the hydraulic clutch/actuator how do I adjust this, being it is hydraulic? On top of this, I fear that me having to clutchless shift so much to get home that it may have screwed with the forks too, as when I decelerate with the clutch engaged (engine braking) the normal wine noise is much louder and when I down shift (with clutch disengaged) the wine is present as I down shift. (The wine does disappear when I coast with the clutch disengaged). Finally, I there is this clicky noise that sounds like it is coming from the gearbox and is even loud enough to hear while riding (not the normal click from the V-Twin), did I do this by not paying attention and trying to hammer the shifter back on to the swindle/sprocket thing (I never hit it super hard, but was not really babying it either, I did not see that the bolt threaded to the swindle at first) when I had the side cover off to flush the fluid with the slave cylinder? Any help is greatly appreciated, I tried to provide as much detail as I could and I apologize, here is a sum up so you do not have to keep reading this.

1. Clutch Actuator stopped working, checked the holes, problem seem fixed, drove it, not fixed.
2. Changed fluid in the clutch, problems seems fixed now, but more issues have arose.
3. Bike no longer pulls as hard as it was, almost like clutch slip. Even though the clutch disengages fine it is poor bleeding or are Clutch plates wore out after 28K miles?
4. Bike also non has a much louder wining noise when decelerating with the clutch engaged (engine braking). Did shift forks get messed up with clutchless shifting from having to get home? I had to figure out clutchless down on the fly, so could it be the pressure I was putting on it before I learned to had to be slowed to a proper speed?
5. Finally, clicking noise is now loud enough to hear while riding, I think it is coming from the gearbox, the clicks pick up as the engine speed picks up. Was this caused by me trying to hammer on the shifter because I was not paying attention to see the bolt threads hooks on to the swindle?


Also, if you have any part suggestions (like the clutch plates and such) please provide links to something like a manual and the part/part retailer. While I do know how to work on my truck and other cars with my dad, we have never had to work on bikes so we do not know much about fixing them. (Also, my dad, mom and I all ride, Mom is a school teacher, dad is a tattoo artist and a Sunday School teacher, go figure!) Any help is greatly appreciated!
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 11:50 PM
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By your description (gear whine on de-accel down by your left foot), you have bevel gear case bearing failure.
Now, the bad news. It is not an easy repair, but doable.

Do NOT ride until this is repaired. Some folks have actually burned their bikes to the ground when this is ignored.

Post back with ANY questions you may have.
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 06:52 AM
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I have heard of synthetic oil causing slipping issues when really accelerating before.


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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 07:04 AM
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You can get a factory manual from kawi for like $80 it will tell you how to do everything. Rebuild tear down thickness specs trouble shooting things.


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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfair View Post
By your description (gear whine on de-accel down by your left foot), you have bevel gear case bearing failure.
Now, the bad news. It is not an easy repair, but doable.

Do NOT ride until this is repaired. Some folks have actually burned their bikes to the ground when this is ignored.

Post back with ANY questions you may have.
Is this still the case even though the noise is not present when the clutch is disengaged and just coasting?
Do you think worn clutch plates are causing the sliping on anything past light acceleration?
What about the clicking noise?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bullcrapallday View Post
I have heard of synthetic oil causing slipping issues when really accelerating before.


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The previous owners has been running synthetic oil for nearly 10K miles and has never had an issue, while it is possible I do not think that is the cause. Unless the oil is old and/or the second owner put regular engine oil in there but being he has been riding for years and doing his own oil changes and such that does not seem likely either.
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 07:50 AM
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I just was talking to someone and they told me synthetic oil can cause this slipping issue cause I was thinking about going too synthetic oil and they told me not to for that reason. I would try it and see if anything changes. That's all sorry I can't be more help


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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 08:12 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bullcrapallday View Post
I just was talking to someone and they told me synthetic oil can cause this slipping issue cause I was thinking about going too synthetic oil and they told me not to for that reason. I would try it and see if anything changes. That's all sorry I can't be more help


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Any and all help is appreciated, the more info in this post the more it helps me and someone else who may have a similar series of unfortunate events. Thank you very much.
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 11:09 AM
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Noise abates when clutch is pulled because load on bevel gears is removed.
Noise gets loud on coast because drive train is trying to power engine and that puts a large load on the bevel gears on their backside. Because of the increased clearance caused by the bearing failure, they get noisy. Clicking noise is because gears have lost their needed tight tolerance because of loose bearing.

Forget the clutch for now as the gear noise is a MUCH bigger issue and must be addressed ASAP, or you will be SORRY. If the bearing falls apart, it will fill your engine with shrapnel, and that is not a good thing.

If this is something you want to do yourself, a factory service manual is needed along with a dial gauge.
Not to do the job correctly sets one up for early failure.

Do not play around with oil changes, etc. as that will not fix the bigger problem.

Like I said, not for the faint of heart, but doable.

http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oe...bevel-gear-2-3

Part # 92045-1165 is the part that has failed.

Post back with any questions.
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Last edited by sfair; 02-12-2017 at 11:16 AM.
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 12:36 PM
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As an add, this bearing failure can cause your clutch to slip.
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you, I will look into it, and will hopefully remember to come back here. I think me and my dad are pretty capable, he has not had to work on bikes but he has been apart of bulding and modifying cars his life, basically a mechanic. Thank you for the help! But what is the need or the dial guage? Is it to make sure everything is within spec, by the service manual? Also, does the manual explain how to get to the bearing?
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