Hard Krome Equalizer Straights Exhaust Replacement Advice

[uf-engineer]

I have a set of Hard Krome Equalizer Straights on my 1600 Mean Streak,
2005. If I rev the engine up to about 3000 rpm the exhaust shield from the front cylinder exhaust shakes badly. For those who aren’t familiar with a DG exhaust, the shields are welded to the pipe. The manufacturer, DG, has been great in saying that they will replace the exhaust with any DG exhaust for the MS 1600. The problem is that they have discontinued the Equalizer Straights I have.
I've examined the welds and think the shield welds may have a hairline crack in them. I can’t move the shields with my hand but they resonate or vibrate at about 3000 rpm.
I’m wondering if this isn’t just inherent to this type of exhaust. If I get the 3” Big Straights, will I encounter the same shield shaking? How far do the straights extend out? Do they stop at the back of rim like the long pipe of the Equalizer Straights?

How do the DG Side Burner exhaust sound compare to the 3” duals? Does the side burner have a welded shield like the straights?

Am I making a mountain out of a mole hill? Should I just keep the exhaust I have?

Thanks for your help

[Frankt07]

if you think they have a crack, over time it will get worse. if the noise bothers you, it wont go away. i dont know what other pipes sound like, but look around and get what catches your eye from the manufacturer

[OldStreak]

My stock exhaust did that...I doubt that helps but just so you know.
Some of them can!

You can of course try wedging something between the pipe and the shield.
Or maybe using a hose clamp in some way.To stop the vibration!
If it's cracked on the pipe side you may be able to have it welded and painted with hitemp paint so it won't rust.
Welding the shield side may not work!

[Lattimer]

I have the 3" big straights, and I haven't had any issues in 10,000 miles. No noises (except for the rattling baffles, but some packing fixed that!) No cracks (polished the pipes this weekend, so I would have seen them if they were obvious.)

If the crack is against the pipe, I would just weld it. If you were close to Southern NJ, you could stop by and I would fix you right up. A small MIG or TIG would work perfect on that.

I think the engine vibration cracks some of the welds on the HK pipes. Maybe they had a run of bad welds, poor wire or something.

All I can say is mine have been fine.

My pipes extend past the rim and are almost even with the edge of the tire, which is the look I wanted and the reason I bought these pipes. I think there is a shorter version that is right at the back end of the rim.

[uf-engineer]

How did you remove the baffles and what did you pack them with?

[uf-engineer]

Also, can someone post a pic of the 3" big straights on a MS side view.

Thanks

[Xlr8n]

Not a direct side view, but between the two pics, you can get the idea. Also, I had the pipes replaced once under warranty due to a crack. http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/fo...owered-ms.html

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by uf-engineer

How did you remove the baffles and what did you pack them with?

There is a screw at the end of the pipe that holds the baffle in. I removed it and wrapped it in fiberglass muffler packing used for dirt bikes. It didn't change the sound any, but it certainly stopped the rattle.

On these pipes, the front of the baffle just sits against the res tof the pipe, and it isn't a tight fit. So the baffle was vibrating inside the pipe at certain RPM ranges. Drove me nuts.

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by uf-engineer

Also, can someone post a pic of the 3" big straights on a MS side view.

Thanks

I'll try to get a pic for you tonight

[uf-engineer]

I took the screw out but couldn’t get the baffle out. I tried pulling the baffle out with a coat hanger and couldn’t. The hanger kept bending. Where did you get the fiberglass wrap?

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by uf-engineer

I took the screw out but couldn’t get the baffle out. I tried pulling the baffle out with a coat hanger and couldn’t. The hanger kept bending. Where did you get the fiberglass wrap?

Did you remove the tips first? You have to pull that off, then pull out the baffle. I used a long screwdriver and forced it into one of the holes in the side of the baffle, then used it as a handle. It wasn't easy, took some fighting both in and out.

I got the fiberglass at the dealer, it was supposed to be for repacking and FMF pipe for a dirt bike.

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by uf-engineer

Also, can someone post a pic of the 3" big straights on a MS side view.

Thanks

Here you go:

[SA_Meanstreak]

Also run a pair of 3" Straights (about 7000 miles) and had some problems with the baffles as well, easy to remove but not so easy to put back again, you have to line-up the the holes, etc.

Mine cracked on the front exhaust at the top where the bracket is welded, the actual exhaust cracked 2/3 of the pipe and to fix it you have to remove the shield completely - well I only welded the parts you can get to, obviously the sections behind the shield and exhaust is now sort of open - hair line crack. I am still thinking how to repair this without having to re-chrome, etc.

I include a pic for you of the crack and the extent at the back.

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by SA_Meanstreak

Also run a pair of 3" Straights (about 7000 miles) and had some problems with the baffles as well, easy to remove but not so easy to put back again, you have to line-up the the holes, etc.

Mine cracked on the front exhaust at the top where the bracket is welded, the actual exhaust cracked 2/3 of the pipe and to fix it you have to remove the shield completely - well I only welded the parts you can get to, obviously the sections behind the shield and exhaust is now sort of open - hair line crack. I am still thinking how to repair this without having to re-chrome, etc.

I include a pic for you of the crack and the extent at the back.

Well, here is how I would fix it. Grind the weld off the mount for the shield. Then use a cut off wheel to remove the mount from the shield. I can't tell for sure from the picture, but then you may be able to get in there and weld up the pipe. I would open the crack up a little with a die grinder to get good surface area, then run a bead of weld over the crack. Weld a little at a time so you don't overheat the steel, you don't want to make this stuff any more brittle than it already is.

Then you can reassemble by welding the bracket back to the shield and to the pipe.

If you can't reach it still, you may have to cut all of the brackets off and remove the shield completely. Not easy, but at least it keeps you from buying new pipes or needing to re-chrome.

[Lattimer]

By the way, I'm a mechanical engineer, not a welder. I taught myself to weld a few years ago, and I supervise a lot of weld repair and construction jobs, mostly on pipe and tanks. So I know a little about this stuff, but a professional welder might have better answers and an idea how to make that repair easier.

[Xlr8n]

SA- my first set cracked at the same place. Replaced under warranty. Hope this set holds up better. HK told me they were probably tightened from back to front which caused the crack, but they replaced them anyway. (they were installed by the dealership on the new bike before I bought it.)

[2WheelFun]

Originally Posted by Lattimer

I have the 3" big straights, and I haven't had any issues in 10,000 miles. No noises (except for the rattling baffles, but some packing fixed that!) No cracks (polished the pipes this weekend, so I would have seen them if they were obvious.)

If the crack is against the pipe, I would just weld it. If you were close to Southern NJ, you could stop by and I would fix you right up. A small MIG or TIG would work perfect on that.

I think the engine vibration cracks some of the welds on the HK pipes. Maybe they had a run of bad welds, poor wire or something.

All I can say is mine have been fine.

My pipes extend past the rim and are almost even with the edge of the tire, which is the look I wanted and the reason I bought these pipes. I think there is a shorter version that is right at the back end of the rim.

Thanks Lattimer for this tip as mine were doing the same thing and I followed your advice and the noise went away.

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by whistle clean

Thanks Lattimer for this tip as mine were doing the same thing and I followed your advice and the noise went away.

Glad I could help!

[Xlr8n]

Shawn- Was checkin' out your webpage and by my calculations you should just about be able to press my Meanie with me sittin on top! Pretty impressive records you have there! You should be proud of yourself for keeping it clean.

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by Xlr8n

Shawn- Was checkin' out your webpage and by my calculations you should just about be able to press my Meanie with me sittin on top! Pretty impressive records you have there! You should be proud of yourself for keeping it clean.

Thanks! Much appreciated.