Rotella-T 5W-40 Synthetic VN800A

[rmeller]

Her is my oil analysis. I am using Rotella-t 5W-40 synthetic. This sample is from my most recent oil change. The miles were put on during the hottest part of the last two months. Current mileage is 6676 miles with 3331 on the oil.

[Nomad900]

Can't read the print--in a nut shell--good or bad results?

[rmeller]

Good results. I'll try to get it so you can read it. I have it in a .pdf file now.

[rmeller]

Let's try this.

http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/fo...d=115645448 4
C82075 Oil sample.pdf

[RichLockyer]

Very nice.... I'll add that to my collection.
Right now, I've got a few from the 1600 running 2k intervals.
Looks like it held grade pretty well. It's a bit low, but the guys changing at 2k were seeing similar levels.

Eventually, I'll get around to actually making a PAGE with links to the sheets.

BTW: I will edit your personal info out before posting.

http://personal.linkline.com/rlockye...lla-5w40-1.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockye...lla-5w40-2.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockye...tella-5w40.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockye...ella-15w40.pdf
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/m1-15w50.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/m1-15w50.pdf
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/m1-vtwin.pdf

[LordGT]

I hear a lot about going to synthetic oils, and I know it's a big controversy. But I think I'm going to switch the 900 LT to synthetic on the next oil change, which is at 4k.

My question is, does anyone have any experience with the Synthetic that Kawasaki uses?

I've heard all the other great brands to use, and maybe one of them sells to Kawasaki, and re-labels it.

Anyone know? yes/no, good/bad??

Thanks

[RichLockyer]

"House brands" are rarely true synthetics, and are overpriced.
Same for synthetics from the MC dealer.
There was an article published a few weeks ago regarding the sourcing of "OEM" chemicals... in most cases, they are actually inferior to the name-brand products.

If you absolutely want to stick with an MC-specific synthetic to avoid the controversy, then Mobil and Amsoil both make 10w40 and 20w50.

I would avoid Kawachem/Yamalube/Honda etc....

The only way to know exactly what Kawachem is would be to go ahead and run it for 2-3k and send in a sample to Blackstone.
2000 miles with even a poor oil is not going to hurt the bike, so you really have nothing to lose.

Just to be sure that they have not changed formulae, I am sending in virgin samples of my V-Twin and Amsoil MCV.

[milt]

I've been considering changing to Synthetic Oil for my 800B. I've read o different forums and threads - NOT to use synthetic on a wet clutch.
The question - can you use synthetic oil in the 2005 Vulcan 800B (classic) and if so which brand and weight.

[rmeller]

As you can see from above I am using Rotella-T 5w-40 in my 2005 VN800A. I've used it for 4,000 miles now and am happy with the results. Seems to shift easier from 2nd to 3rd than when I was using a blended oil. My main concern was that I was using the 5w-40 during the 90 to 100 degree days we were having here in WI. Much of the 4,000 miles has been freeway or +65 mph riding. I ride from 40 to 220 miles a a stretch. Seems the oil held up pretty well.

[stargazertony]

Originally Posted by rmeller

My main concern was that I was using the 5w-40 during the 90 to 100 degree days we were having here in WI.

Hi: I don't understand your concern. 40 weight is 40 weight.

Tony

[rmeller]

My thinking might be off but I was concerned about the relative thinness of the oil as compared to a thicker type. Maybe it wouldn't make any difference. Just always have to have something to worry about. <G>

[LordGT]

Originally Posted by RichLockyer

If you absolutely want to stick with an MC-specific synthetic to avoid the controversy, then Mobil and Amsoil both make 10w40 and 20w50.

I would avoid Kawachem/Yamalube/Honda etc....


Just to be sure that they have not changed formulae, I am sending in virgin samples of my V-Twin and Amsoil MCV.

Damn there is so much to learrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrn!!!!

I don't understand the MC-Specific comment???

[art708]

Rotella isn't a true synthetic either.... very good oil, but not synthetic.

[RichLockyer]

MC... MotorCycle, which will carry the JASO MA in addition to the API ratings.

As far as the wet clutch, I have used the following in my Vulcan and my dirtbike:

M1 V-Twin, RedCap, MX4T
Rotella 5w40 (group 3) synthetic (actually hydrocracked mineral)
Amsoil MCV
Yamalube 4

Redcap and Rotella are "automotive" oils. The rest are MC specific.
All are synthetic except for the Yamalube.
The only one I had any problems with was the Yamalube... made the clutch GRABBY! I mean to the point that putting it in gear it would jump 10 feet and then stall if I didn't get on the throttle. I would maybe expect that on a cold engine, but it was difficult to hold it when warm. Duck-walking backwards was NOT going to happen unless it was in neutral.

It was like I didn't even have a clutch.

Every forum I've been on, when the oil wars start, you end up with dozens of people who have actually USED automotive oils for years without problems pitted against people who either don't know and trust their parts guy, people who are paranoid about voiding their warranty, or parts guys.

Use an oil that is the proper grade for the bike and temperatures, and if you are in a very cold climate and want something thinner than 10w40, make sure to avoid oils marked "Energy Conserving"
EC oils are the ones that'll hose your clutch.
Also, I would avoid the 0w-anything oils... one of the guys on Thumpertalk was looking for Rotella 5w40, but in Quebec, the only thing he could find was 0-40. His clutch slipped... but that is the ONLY report I've read of someone who actually had slippage from synthetic.



Synthetic is NOT more slippery than conventional oil. That's a myth.
Synthetic is more DURABLE... it will remain in grade longer than a conventional oil, which will provide better protection than an oil that shears down 2 grades in a short time.
It also provides better cold-flow to better protect your engine on it's first starts every day. Synthetic does NOT provide better cold start protection by "clinging" to the parts as another one of the myths states... it simply has a lower pour point than conventional oil, so when the oil pump starts, the synthetic is moving to the bearings more quickly.

[Neverdun]

I'm using the Rotella in my Streak and noticed right away that it performs so much better. No more sluggishness when you hit the throttle. Not that it was real sluggish before but it does make a noticeable difference.

[LordGT]

Originally Posted by RichLockyer

MC... MotorCycle, which will carry the JASO MA in addition to the API ratings.


Synthetic is NOT more slippery than conventional oil. That's a myth.
Synthetic is more DURABLE... it will remain in grade longer than a conventional oil, which will provide better protection than an oil that shears down 2 grades in a short time.
It also provides better cold-flow to better protect your engine on it's first starts every day. Synthetic does NOT provide better cold start protection by "clinging" to the parts as another one of the myths states... it simply has a lower pour point than conventional oil, so when the oil pump starts, the synthetic is moving to the bearings more quickly.

Thanks for the information. I'll have go read this a couple of times.

Also, I hear about sending in Oil samples. Where can you find the instructions for doing this and the prices?

Thanks again,

[RichLockyer]

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

Sample kit is free, $20 plus return postage for the analysis without TBN.
TBN is an extra $10, but it is primarily of concern to cagers running 10-20k change intervals.

[LordGT]

Originally Posted by RichLockyer

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

Sample kit is free, $20 plus return postage for the analysis without TBN.
TBN is an extra $10, but it is primarily of concern to cagers running 10-20k change intervals.

Thanks, I just ordered my kit. Like you said, maybe I'll let Kawa put their oil in the bike, run it 2K then have it checked. Then decide to change or not.

Also you say that the synthetics are not any more slippery, but when I changed the tranny Oil in my bug from dino to Synthetic, there was a MAJOR improvement. I always had terrible time shifting on cold days, and with the synthetic, it was amazing, shifted like butter. Is there another explanation that just being more slippery???

[RichLockyer]

Additive packages, viscosity level, though I would suspect the pour point having something to do with it. Personally, I've never noticed a difference in shifting... just the above mentioned sticky clutch with the Yamalube.

Also keep in mind that since synthetics hold up longer, they carry fewer viscosity improvers. This allows the use of an oil with a wider span between the low and high numbers while maintaining integrity. It MAY have an impact on your shifting.

For example, my truck calls for 15w40. Amsoil does make a 15w40, and it's what I'm using right now, but Rotella and M1/Delvac are 5w40. As soon as Mobil pulls their heads out of their butts and gets distribution back on line for their 5w40, I'll go back to it... as it is, I have not been able to find M1 for my truck since last NOVEMBER! They were supposed to have the new oil available in April but few people have seen it yet.

Anyways, with a conventional oil, a 5w40 would shear down very quickly.
Yes, a 40wt is a 40wt, but the 5w "cold" level is the problem. 5w40 carries a ratio of 8:1, while 15w40 is only 2.7:1. The 5w40 would normally need far higher levels of viscosity improvers to be able to hold the 40w rating for long.
The problem is, viscosity improvers are extremely weak in shear strength, and running them through a wet clutch or a transmission causes them to break down extremely quickly.

Because of this, you simply do not find conventional motor oils with ratios above 6:1 (5w30)... even that is really pushing it for a conventional oil, but the primary cause of shear stress in an auto is from the cam gears meshing on DOHC designs, so you don't have the full torque of the engine pushing on the oil as you do with a wet gearbox.

Anyways, the synthetic 5w40 actually holds up as well or even better than the conventional 15w40.

[JacksonW]

I was up in the air, so to speak, about this also. Based on the info provided by many of you, I went with Mobile 15x50 Gold cap. Tried to find Amsoil in my area, and after no reply from their web site, and one reply from a teenage girl, I went with the Mobile-1. Everyone has it, and so far, I'm very pleased. Put it in at around 2K and the more I run it the smoother it feels. I trusted all the great reports and info from you guys that have used it, Thank you!