bleeding...

[kscubb]

alright this is a stupid question but is the process for bleeding hydraulic lines (i.e. clutch) the same as it is for brakes on a car?

[pat0021]

I have never done it, but I would think they are.

[bikeaholic]

How to Bleed Motorcycle Brakes

Tip: Any brake bleeding kit will do just fine but make sure you have a small bucket to put the tiny brake bleeder fluid container in as it is very likely to overflow.

It is actually not very hard to bleed (renew) your own motorcycle brake fluid. This should be done at least every 2 years. Or when the brake fluid turns from clear to a brown to black colour (darker it is, the worse it is).

Brake fluid will eat away at plastic and paint, be sure to cover any paint or plastic that may get splashed with brake fluid. Wipe any spilled fluid with the rag and lots of water.

Step 1: Make sure you have the tools to bleed your brake fluid. The tools you require will vary, but generally this is what you will need:

A. Wrench/Spanner (average 10mm)
B. Brake bleeding kit (rubber fitting, clear hose, small container)
C. Brake fluid overflow container (to put the brake bleeding kit small container in)
D. Rags
E. Brake Fluid (check what type of brake fluid you need for your bike. e.g. DOT 3). Make sure to buy enough brake fluid in the DOT type you require. (500ml should be more than enough).

Step 2: Attach the brake bleeding kit to the brake fluid nipple located on the brake caliper.

Step 3: Loosen the nipple so the fluid is free to flow down the brake bleeding kit tube and into the small container

Step 4: Remove the master cylinder cap (top) so you can monitor and refill more brake fluid into the master cylinder as you bleed the brakes.

Step 5. Pump the brake lever so the old/new brake fluid is forced through the tube into the brake bleeding kit fluid container

Step 6: Keep the volume of the master cylinder constant (near full) as to not have it empty. Keep pumping on the brake lever until the fluid coming out is clear (rather than the old brown/black colour).

Step 7: Once all the tiny air bubbles are gone hold pressure on the brake level and re-tighten the brake fluid nipple to close it off.

Step 8: Replace the master cylinder top cover.

Step 9: Remove the brake bleeding kit from the cliper and use the rag with water to clean up any spillage.

[su1kil]

i did not have to pump the lever. Since the fluid reservor was up high from the master cylinder, the dark fluid came out by the gravity force. I was very careful not to dry out the reservor, so that the air would not go in.
This is what I did, and it worked out for me on 800A.

1. open the fluid reservor cover
2. connect a transparent tube to the master cylinder nipple
3. put the other end of the tube to a bucket
4. open the nipple
5. watch the fluid coming out of the tube
6. once the fluid fills about a half foot length of the tube, close the nipple
7. fill up the reservor with the new fluid
8. repeat 4 - 7 until the fluid comes out clean

Well, I did not have to pump the bubble out, because the bubble was not there in the line to begin with. If the line has the air, you will need to pump the lever, I think.
I was going to use the one-person kit, but I did not need it.

[stevebtx12]

Something that I found worked on my old VN750 after changing out the fluid in the front brakes (via method mentioned above) was to use a zip tie (or anything like that) to tie the front brake lever down tight and leave it overnight. This pressurizes the system and makes sure all air is out, works good. Haven't had to do anything to my new bike in that area yet.

[Spok]

I copied this to the project board. anyone have pics?