Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums  

Go Back   Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums > Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums > Kawasaki Cruisers
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read
Click here to see some of our favorite links!

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 03-23-2007   #21 (permalink)
Dreamer
VN 1500 classic
BTK Beginner
 
Dreamer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Europe
Posts: 79
Smile

What a crowd I might go with Amsoil.. I`m thinking of jetting the engine
(if financially capable) and Amsoil will hopefully lower the temperature. I`m sure that all new owners will apreciate your diverse experiences so keep up the good work
Dreamer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007   #22 (permalink)
2WheelFun
the "fun old" guy
Extreme Forum Supporter
 
2WheelFun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Albion, Washington "Pacific Northwest"
Posts: 30,383
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bikeaholic
there has been much debate about that..................

in automotive circles there were some reports of a sludge or gel forming with a quick switch back to dino oil and some possible seal damage..
i have talked with several techs about this (even called mobile oil about it)
because i run mobile 1 in my LS1 motor in my car.i have never been able to confirm this myth from any mechanic so far and mobile said if the change is done correctly there should be no problems switching back-they also said that many oils that are called synthetic are actually blends of syn. fluids with dino oil. i keep hearing and reading about the so called dangers of switchback but i have not witnessed a single case on bikes or cars where that was proven to be the cause of any type of mechanical failure.

so for me i need more evidence that switchbacks cause problems
I've only know a few people to have problems with switchbacks...but they're healing up just fine now.

__________________
***KING KAHUNA***
***2007 V2K LT***
******PICS******
2007 Brute Force 650i
******PICS******

*I love the smell of SeaFoam in the morning*
2WheelFun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007   #23 (permalink)
stevebtx12
I ride a Vulcan :)~
Forum Supporter
 
stevebtx12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Bedford, TX USA
Posts: 2,384
Default

Any of you VROC member ever start an "Oil Thread" over there, wouldn't advise it, it wouldn't be prudent.....lmao.... I'm glad to see folks here are always glad to offer an opinion on any subject!
__________________
Steve
2006 VN1600 Classic
VROC #22372
http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t105/stevebtx12/
stevebtx12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007   #24 (permalink)
Lattimer
Giant Biker
BTK Expert
 
Lattimer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Mount Royal, NJ
Posts: 1,253
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bikeaholic
there has been much debate about that..................

in automotive circles there were some reports of a sludge or gel forming with a quick switch back to dino oil and some possible seal damage..
i have talked with several techs about this (even called mobile oil about it)
because i run mobile 1 in my LS1 motor in my car.i have never been able to confirm this myth from any mechanic so far and mobile said if the change is done correctly there should be no problems switching back-they also said that many oils that are called synthetic are actually blends of syn. fluids with dino oil. i keep hearing and reading about the so called dangers of switchback but i have not witnessed a single case on bikes or cars where that was proven to be the cause of any type of mechanical failure.

so for me i need more evidence that switchbacks cause problems
That depends on what kind of base is used in the synthetic. For example, there are polyglycol synthetic oils (typically industrial gear lubes) that are severely incompatible with other types of lubes. Mix then with a polyoelifin (sp?) base and you get baby crap in your crankcase.

However, I do not think any of the automotive or motorcycle oils currently out there use the incompatible bases.

Among synthetics, there are different types out there. There are true synthetics, like Mobil 1, Amsoil, and Royal Purple. There are synthetic blends, which are typically advertised as such on the labels. And then there are hydrocracked, "ulta-refined" mineral oils that are called synthetics, but really are dino oil. Doesn't mean its bad oil, its almost as good as synth. Shell Rotella and Pennzoil are in this class.


Personally, I stick with the synthetics or hydrocracked oils. Much higher quality lubes. In my cars I use Mobil 1, in the bikes I use Shell Rotella Synth.

Just BTW, I'm a dorky engineer with a heavy interest in lubrication. I do a lot of this for a living.
__________________
Shawn Lattimer
'06 Silver V2K Classic VROC #22980 ROG #464

http://www.shawnlattimer.com
Lattimer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007   #25 (permalink)
Plato
Forum Supporter
Forum Supporter
 
Plato's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: East Texas
Posts: 2,592
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverEagle
Mobil1 15w50Extended service(goldcap) and stock Kawi oil filter(Purolator and mobil ones not available locally)
I'm a big fan of Mobil-1 15W-50 Goldcap, but it seems they've gone to screwing around again and the Extended Service Goldcap is going away. Not sure how this new GreyCap 15W-50 is gonna do, I wouldn't put it past Mobil to screw a good thing up just to sell more of their overpriced silly bike oil...

I do run Rotella-T 5W-40 synthetic in the Texas winter, simply because I don't like the way the bike starts on cold mornings (under 40F) using 15W+
__________________
05 Nomad/V&H Baggers/PCIII/Caddman
Risers/Lights/Lowers/Chaps
www.home.earthlink.net/~mthompson61
Plato is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007   #26 (permalink)
Ryguy
July 2008 MOM
BTK Expert
 
Ryguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Bismarck, ND
Posts: 5,411
Default

I use Ams Oil 10w40 motorcycle oil. Great luck with it last year and will be using it again this year.
Ryguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007   #27 (permalink)
Ryguy
July 2008 MOM
BTK Expert
 
Ryguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Bismarck, ND
Posts: 5,411
Default

Oh yea I also use a Baldwin B1400 filter
Ryguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007   #28 (permalink)
Idaho
Forensic Bug Splatter Analyst
BTK Expert
 
Idaho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Idaho
Posts: 1,611
Default

Amsoil 10/40 mc oil with a Pure One filter.
__________________
2004 Blue Marauder 1600

http://www.CruiserCustomizing.com/Idaho
Idaho is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007   #29 (permalink)
CootoronScooter
One of Four
BTK Expert
 
CootoronScooter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: East Tennessee
Posts: 1,230
Default

I've heard that synthetic can cause clutch slippage has anyone had this happen using Mobil 1 or Amsoil? I'm thinking about going with synthetic in my 900. I've used Amsoil in my truck.
CootoronScooter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007   #30 (permalink)
su1kil
Wants better weather!
BTK Expert
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Gilberts, IL
Posts: 978
Default

10W-40, 15W-40, 20W-50 any cheap oil from Walmart without the 'energy conserving' stuff. SuperTech ST7317 filter from Walmart. I am a newbie, and this is my 2nd oil change on 800A. So far it is rolling haha...
su1kil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007   #31 (permalink)
Ryguy
July 2008 MOM
BTK Expert
 
Ryguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Bismarck, ND
Posts: 5,411
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CootoronScooter
I've heard that synthetic can cause clutch slippage has anyone had this happen using Mobil 1 or Amsoil? I'm thinking about going with synthetic in my 900. I've used Amsoil in my truck.
Never noticed any slippage last year running it, The motorcycle ams is designed for the wet clutch.
Ryguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007   #32 (permalink)
VulcanRev
PGR - BFC
Forum Supporter
 
VulcanRev's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Puyallup, Washington
Posts: 1,461
Default

Change at 40 miles was kawi regular oil, change at 300 was kawi synthetic (OUCH $$$!) and a $15 kawi filter, at 3k went to rotella 5-40, didn't like the "feel" of the clutch (probably just in my head!) will go to Mobile 1 next change, still using wally-world filter - can't beat a good filter for $2.04!
__________________
You say psycho like it's a bad thing...
06 900 LT
94 Black & Emerald 750
VulcanRev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007   #33 (permalink)
pstarr7
05 Vulcan 1500 Classic
BTK Beginner
 
pstarr7's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Newbury Ohio
Posts: 78
Default

Amsoil 10w40 synthetic since first 1000
miles.
_______________
Paul
pstarr7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007   #34 (permalink)
Lattimer
Giant Biker
BTK Expert
 
Lattimer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Mount Royal, NJ
Posts: 1,253
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CootoronScooter
I've heard that synthetic can cause clutch slippage has anyone had this happen using Mobil 1 or Amsoil? I'm thinking about going with synthetic in my 900. I've used Amsoil in my truck.
Clutch slippage can be caused by using oils with energy conserving additives in them. Synthetic oils without those additives won't have any effect on your clutch.
__________________
Shawn Lattimer
'06 Silver V2K Classic VROC #22980 ROG #464

http://www.shawnlattimer.com
Lattimer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007   #35 (permalink)
Ivan
Lone Wolf
BTK Beginner
 
Ivan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SC
Posts: 60
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lattimer
That depends on what kind of base is used in the synthetic. For example, there are polyglycol synthetic oils (typically industrial gear lubes) that are severely incompatible with other types of lubes. Mix then with a polyoelifin (sp?) base and you get baby crap in your crankcase.

However, I do not think any of the automotive or motorcycle oils currently out there use the incompatible bases.

Among synthetics, there are different types out there. There are true synthetics, like Mobil 1, Amsoil, and Royal Purple. There are synthetic blends, which are typically advertised as such on the labels. And then there are hydrocracked, "ulta-refined" mineral oils that are called synthetics, but really are dino oil. Doesn't mean its bad oil, its almost as good as synth. Shell Rotella and Pennzoil are in this class.


Personally, I stick with the synthetics or hydrocracked oils. Much higher quality lubes. In my cars I use Mobil 1, in the bikes I use Shell Rotella Synth.

Just BTW, I'm a dorky engineer with a heavy interest in lubrication. I do a lot of this for a living.
A friend of mine used to work in a lab where they often performed a "Timken Bearing Oil Test". He claims that Royal Purple Synthetic was way ahead of all other leading synthetic brands.
I googled a quick link to an article about Royal Purple Synthetic:
http://vtwinplus.com/March_2004/royal_purple_oil.html
Ivan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007   #36 (permalink)
RichLockyer
Patriot Guardian
Extreme Forum Supporter
 
RichLockyer's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 20,414
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverEagle
Mobil1 15w50Extended service(goldcap) and stock Kawi oil filter(Purolator and mobil ones not available locally)
It's days are numbered.

Mobil recently released a grey cap 15w50 that meets the new SM spec.

My clutch is slipping

Not as badly as the Motul crap I tried, only when I pin it at 70mph in 5th, but it is slipping. It was solid as a rock on the Castrol GTX 20w50.
I'm going to send a virgin sample in anyways, but I'm probably going to dump the M1 this weekend or next.
__________________
- Rich
2006 1600 Classic
Member CORVA, BRC
Patriot Guard Rider
RichLockyer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007   #37 (permalink)
RichLockyer
Patriot Guardian
Extreme Forum Supporter
 
RichLockyer's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 20,414
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Plato
I wouldn't put it past Mobil to screw a good thing up just to sell more of their overpriced silly bike oil...
Nahh... not paying $8-$10/qt for Amsoil or M1.
Depending on the results of the UOA, right now, I'd have to say that Castrol GTX 20w50 is right up there with V-Twin and MCV.

I keep forgetting to mail off the samples I took last weekend.... NOT happy with the new M1 15w50.
__________________
- Rich
2006 1600 Classic
Member CORVA, BRC
Patriot Guard Rider
RichLockyer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2007   #38 (permalink)
2WheelFun
the "fun old" guy
Extreme Forum Supporter
 
2WheelFun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Albion, Washington "Pacific Northwest"
Posts: 30,383
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RichLockyer
It's days are numbered.

Mobil recently released a grey cap 15w50 that meets the new SM spec.

My clutch is slipping

Not as badly as the Motul crap I tried, only when I pin it at 70mph in 5th, but it is slipping. It was solid as a rock on the Castrol GTX 20w50.
I'm going to send a virgin sample in anyways, but I'm probably going to dump the M1 this weekend or next.
Rich, try adding SeaFoam to the oil and go ride 50 miles before you change it. I did that on the 1500 at 23,000 miles and noticed an improvement in clutch grip after the change.
__________________
***KING KAHUNA***
***2007 V2K LT***
******PICS******
2007 Brute Force 650i
******PICS******

*I love the smell of SeaFoam in the morning*
2WheelFun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2007   #39 (permalink)
Flboy
Forgiven
Forum Supporter
 
Flboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Florida
Posts: 519
Default

What is Sea Foam?
__________________
Flboy
2007 Vulcan 900 Custom
http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y162/Flboy/Vulcan/
Flboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2007   #40 (permalink)
RichLockyer
Patriot Guardian
Extreme Forum Supporter
 
RichLockyer's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 20,414
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2WheelFun
Rich, try adding SeaFoam to the oil and go ride 50 miles before you change it. I did that on the 1500 at 23,000 miles and noticed an improvement in clutch grip after the change.
That would invalidate my research project.
If I need to add anything to an oil to make it work, it's not suitable.

What I'll likely do is drain the M1 (leave the filter) and refill with GTX, then do the same in a week or two to dilute the M1 and flush it out of the engine, then continue the testing on a different oil at 10k.

So what oils would you guys like to see me test? So far, here's what I've done:

http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/oil.xls
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/m1-2000.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockye...l_MCV_2000.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockye...TwinSynUOA.jpg
Virgin Analyses:
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/m1-virgin.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockye...MCV_Virgin.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockye..._m1_15w-50.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockye...la-syn5w40.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockye...TwinSynVOA.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockye...CastGTXVOA.jpg

Motul sheared down and got severe clutch slippage at 1,000 miles.
Castrol GTX 20w50 analysis pending my getting off my butt and getting it into the mail.
__________________
- Rich
2006 1600 Classic
Member CORVA, BRC
Patriot Guard Rider
RichLockyer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools