What kind of oil do you use? - Page 3

**2WheelFun** · 03-24-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flboy

What is Sea Foam?

It's a great fuel additive that helps keep the fuel system clean as well as the cylinders free of carbon buildup. Many of us use it with excellent results. You can find it at Napa Auto Parts stores.

Here's some info about it.

SeaFoam

Lattimer · 03-24-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ivan

A friend of mine used to work in a lab where they often performed a "Timken Bearing Oil Test". He claims that Royal Purple Synthetic was way ahead of all other leading synthetic brands.
I googled a quick link to an article about Royal Purple Synthetic:
http://vtwinplus.com/March_2004/royal_purple_oil.html

I use RP a lot in industrial machinery. Its a big problem solver for me.

RP kills most oils on the timken test. I think the only oil ot there that is really comparable to RP is Amsoil.

I used to run RP in my vehicles, but I got a hook up for free Mobil 1 a couple years ago and got about 6 cases for free. So I stuck with the M1 in my truck since then. Wish I still had that resource!!

RicOne · 03-24-2007

I use Royal Purple with a K & N filter.
I just change from the 10w40 to 20w50 for the summer.

OldStreak · 03-24-2007

http://www.gadgetjq.com/Oil_Articles.htm

OldStreak · 03-24-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by RicOne

I use Royal Purple with a K & N filter.
I just change from the 10w40 to 20w50 for the summer.

Royal purple has a number of bike specific types...which one did you go with, Max Cycle?

bross · 03-24-2007

Amsoil 10W40 mc oil and a PureOne filter on the meanstreak, Amsoil 20W50 with stock filter on the BMW.

PS To Rich, get off your butt and get that Castrol sample in the mail!

art708 · 03-24-2007

Rich, it'll be very interesting to see how the GTX analysis comes out. I've used Castrol GTX in my cars and bikes since back in the early 70's and never had a problem with it. If it works as well as the synthetics at 1/3 the price why would I want to spend the money for Mobil and Amsoil, etc. Change it at 3k and save money.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichLockyer

That would invalidate my research project.
If I need to add anything to an oil to make it work, it's not suitable.

What I'll likely do is drain the M1 (leave the filter) and refill with GTX, then do the same in a week or two to dilute the M1 and flush it out of the engine, then continue the testing on a different oil at 10k.

So what oils would you guys like to see me test? So far, here's what I've done:

http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/oil.xls
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/m1-2000.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockye...l_MCV_2000.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockye...TwinSynUOA.jpg
Virgin Analyses:
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/m1-virgin.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockye...MCV_Virgin.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockye..._m1_15w-50.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockye...la-syn5w40.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockye...TwinSynVOA.jpg
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockye...CastGTXVOA.jpg

Motul sheared down and got severe clutch slippage at 1,000 miles.
Castrol GTX 20w50 analysis pending my getting off my butt and getting it into the mail.

Plato · 03-24-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by art708

Rich, it'll be very interesting to see how the GTX analysis comes out. I've used Castrol GTX in my cars and bikes since back in the early 70's and never had a problem with it. If it works as well as the synthetics at 1/3 the price why would I want to spend the money for Mobil and Amsoil, etc. Change it at 3k and save money.

I'm sorely tempted to start testing Wally World's SuperTech line of cheapo oil, because I seem to be a change it often kinda guy (rarely go past 2.5k).

I seem to change the oil about 3 times a year mostly due to the change of season temps here in East TX. As a daily cummuter I often start the bike in temps below freezing in the winter, then for 2/3 of the year I'm subject to temps above 100F. So I'm changing bike oil mostly becuase I want to change the viscosity grade to match the season -a bit anal I know, but one start with 20W-50 at a temp of 28F will convince you to get it out of there and replace it with a lower viscosity

**2WheelFun** · 03-24-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by Plato

I'm sorely tempted to start testing Wally World's SuperTech line of cheapo oil, because I seem to be a change it often kinda guy (rarely go past 2.5k).

I seem to change the oil about 3 times a year mostly due to the change of season temps here in East TX. As a daily cummuter I often start the bike in temps below freezing in the winter, then for 2/3 of the year I'm subject to temps above 100F. So I'm changing bike oil mostly becuase I want to change the viscosity grade to match the season -a bit anal I know, but one start with 20W-50 at a temp of 28F will convince you to get it out of there and replace it with a lower viscosity

I've wondered how good it could be?

art708 · 03-24-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2WheelFun

I've wondered how good it could be?

It's good enough to pass the gov't. required specs, for sure. I think the military, who is a BIG oil buyer, requires that all oils be compatable with each other so really, how big a difference could there be? I think if you change your oil and filter regularly that you won't have problems regardless which oil you use as long as it's not "energy conserving" which is supposed to cause clutch slippage.

Classic · 03-24-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichLockyer

I'd have to say that Castrol GTX 20w50 is right up there with V-Twin and MCV.

I also liked 20/50 GTX except that it made the shifting a little sluggish and I actually caught neutral a couple times going from 1st to second. Then, the price for Castrol went up so I switched to Rotella 15/40 and like it as much as anything else I've run.

In June I'll be taking the bike on a 3,000 mile trip out west so I've been reading a little on oil but so far nothing has made me want to switch away from Rotella. I really liked AMSOIL but it and the other MC specific oils are just too expensive.

Scruffy · 03-24-2007

Savage: GTX 20W50 year round. Emgo filter. Switching to 15W40.

Vulcan: Rotella 15W40 year round. Walmart filter.

Intruder: Syntech 10W40 year round. Emgo filter. Soon to be Rotella and Walmart like the Vulcan.

I tried a couple mc spec syns in the Vulcan. Made it leak oil.

Full synthetic flat out vanished from the Savage. No leaks, no visible smoke, but no oil less than 24 hours post-change.

I'll stick with what works for me. Cheap, readily available in North America, functional.
-Scruffy

oolddog · 03-25-2007

I use Mobile1 0-40, non-energy conserving.

RichLockyer · 03-25-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by oolddog

I use Mobile 0-40

0w-40 or 10w40?

oolddog · 03-25-2007

"Zero" Mobile1 0-40, It's supposed to be the best for getting the oil circulating when you first crank up and still the viscosity is 40 when its hot.

Cruising · 03-25-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by oolddog

"Zero" Mobile1 0-40, It's supposed to be the best for getting the oil circulating when you first crank up and still the viscosity is 40 when its hot.

I never heard of 0-40 oil!!!

funny book · 03-25-2007

Amsoil is great. I buy it by the case. Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Rotella are excellent as well. I've used GTX with no problems in the past too. I stick to Amsoil now though.

From the thousands of posts I've read on this, it seems (for most) that as long as you stay away from the "energy conserving", & change out at the proper intervals, then you'll be fine.

I'm no mechanic, & there are always the few exceptions though, so YMMV.

RichLockyer · 03-26-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cruising

I never heard of 0-40 oil!!!

They do make a variety of 0w oils... I wanted to be sure it wasn't a typo.
The last time I heard of someone using a 0w was when a guy in Canada could not get Rotella 5w40 and got 0w40 instead... he had serious clutch slippage, and a quick call to Shell confirmed that they knew it was not suitable for a wet clutch.

My only concern with a 0w (beyond clutch slippage issues) is the shear stability. Synthetics are generally far superior to conventional, as they do not require as many (much?) viscosity improvers in the blend, but the fact remains that a 20w50, at 2.5:1 will hold it's viscosity better than a 15w50 at 3.3:1, or a 10w40 at 4:1.
5w40 goes to 8:1, but synthetics are stable enough to perform comparably to a 15w40 at 2.7:1, but I wouldn't run any 0wt without very careful used oil analysis monitoring under different temperature conditions.

Short story, Kawi recommends 10w40 unless ambient is going to be above 100 degrees, then 20w50. 20w50 is good DOWN to around 30 degrees.
Quality synthetic takes care of cold-flow issues without having to resort to 0w blends that could bring warranty issues.

Given my temperatures in CA, I would never experiment with any 0w oil. If I lived in Canada or the northern US, I would give it a shot and run some samples through Blackstone!

RichLockyer · 03-26-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by funny book

as long as you stay away from the "energy conserving", & change out at the proper intervals, then you'll be fine.

For the most part, however, I switched to the new M1 15w50 last weekend (API rating SM). This is the new grey cap, NOT the 15w50EP "Gold" cap that replaced "Redcap", and I have been experiencing some clutch slippage.

It's strange... it's hard to pin down. Seemed to give me some moderate slip in 1st and 5th last weekend, but this morning I couldn't make it slip.
Later in the afternoon, I tried again and got mixed results.... nothing consistent, and nowhere near as badly as I experienced it last weekend.
I'm going by a 5th gear roll on from 70mph. Last weekend the engine would quickly rev through 4k on it's way to 5k. This weekend... hotter weather and a fully warmed engine... it would barely rev over what it would be when not accelerating.
I was going to dump the oil this weekend and flush it with GTX again, but given it's performance today, I might leave it in and see what happens.

Keep in mind, I am monitoring this with a tach... the kind of slippage that I'm getting on the M1 may not be noticeable without actually looking for it with a tach.
By comparison, the Motul was so bad that the first time it slipped on me I thought the bike next to me was revving his engine and I could absolutely feel the lag on a 5th gear roll-on (immediate rev to 5k).

Dreamer · 03-26-2007

I do have another question.. I hadn`t had a chance to do an oil change(outta town)
quite yet. My friend is trying to convince me that Motul is the best oil for my ride. It would sure be for my wallet but I`m not that certain about my bike. He`s a motor mehanic driving a Honda hornet900 and he didn`t get any clutch slippage as he is using it for couple of years. I am just slightly concerned because I read
at least 2 posts that did strongly object using Motul on Vulcans/severe clutch slippage aftr1000mls or so.. Now..is there any truth in that?

03-24-2007	#43 (permalink)
RicOne Made It To Second Gear BTK Beginner Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Spring, Texas Posts: 75	I use Royal Purple with a K & N filter. I just change from the 10w40 to 20w50 for the summer. __________________ Ricone R/B 900LT Corbin DT Seat Cobra Highway and Light Bar Royal Purple Synthetic

03-24-2007	#44 (permalink)
OldStreak Transplanted Newfie! BTK Expert Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Calgary,Alberta Posts: 1,037	http://www.gadgetjq.com/Oil_Articles.htm __________________ Living life one day at a time! 02 Nomad

03-24-2007	#46 (permalink)
bross Let's Ride! Forum Supporter Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Osoyoos, BC Canada Posts: 6,523	Amsoil 10W40 mc oil and a PureOne filter on the meanstreak, Amsoil 20W50 with stock filter on the BMW. PS To Rich, get off your butt and get that Castrol sample in the mail! __________________ 08 CBF1000 07 DR650 Pic 06 Triumph Scrambler

03-24-2007	#52 (permalink)
Scruffy Scooter Trash! BTK Expert Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Buckley Wa USA Posts: 2,365	Savage: GTX 20W50 year round. Emgo filter. Switching to 15W40. Vulcan: Rotella 15W40 year round. Walmart filter. Intruder: Syntech 10W40 year round. Emgo filter. Soon to be Rotella and Walmart like the Vulcan. I tried a couple mc spec syns in the Vulcan. Made it leak oil. Full synthetic flat out vanished from the Savage. No leaks, no visible smoke, but no oil less than 24 hours post-change. I'll stick with what works for me. Cheap, readily available in North America, functional. -Scruffy __________________ Eagle Scout. Veteran. Patriot Guard Rider. 1950s style Savage barhopper 1950s style VN800B bagger

03-25-2007	#53 (permalink)
oolddog V2KTN BTK Beginner Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Hickory Withe, TN Posts: 68	I use Mobile1 0-40, non-energy conserving. __________________ 2006 Kawasaki Vulcan 2000 Classic LT, Black Last edited by oolddog : 03-25-2007 at 11:17 PM.

03-25-2007	#55 (permalink)
oolddog V2KTN BTK Beginner Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Hickory Withe, TN Posts: 68	"Zero" Mobile1 0-40, It's supposed to be the best for getting the oil circulating when you first crank up and still the viscosity is 40 when its hot. __________________ 2006 Kawasaki Vulcan 2000 Classic LT, Black

03-25-2007	#57 (permalink)
funny book Made It To Second Gear BTK Beginner Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Macon, GA Posts: 99	Amsoil is great. I buy it by the case. Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Rotella are excellent as well. I've used GTX with no problems in the past too. I stick to Amsoil now though. From the thousands of posts I've read on this, it seems (for most) that as long as you stay away from the "energy conserving", & change out at the proper intervals, then you'll be fine. I'm no mechanic, & there are always the few exceptions though, so YMMV. __________________ '06 Black Nomad

03-26-2007	#60 (permalink)
Dreamer VN 1500 classic BTK Beginner Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Europe Posts: 79	Motul? I do have another question.. I hadn`t had a chance to do an oil change(outta town) quite yet. My friend is trying to convince me that Motul is the best oil for my ride. It would sure be for my wallet but I`m not that certain about my bike. He`s a motor mehanic driving a Honda hornet900 and he didn`t get any clutch slippage as he is using it for couple of years. I am just slightly concerned because I read at least 2 posts that did strongly object using Motul on Vulcans/severe clutch slippage aftr1000mls or so.. Now..is there any truth in that?