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Old 03-26-2007   #61 (permalink)
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Rotella dino, ck this outhttp://www.shellusserver.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3081&page=1#Pos t3081
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Old 03-26-2007   #62 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichLockyer
They do make a variety of 0w oils... I wanted to be sure it wasn't a typo.
The last time I heard of someone using a 0w was when a guy in Canada could not get Rotella 5w40 and got 0w40 instead... he had serious clutch slippage, and a quick call to Shell confirmed that they knew it was not suitable for a wet clutch.

My only concern with a 0w (beyond clutch slippage issues) is the shear stability. Synthetics are generally far superior to conventional, as they do not require as many (much?) viscosity improvers in the blend, but the fact remains that a 20w50, at 2.5:1 will hold it's viscosity better than a 15w50 at 3.3:1, or a 10w40 at 4:1.
5w40 goes to 8:1, but synthetics are stable enough to perform comparably to a 15w40 at 2.7:1, but I wouldn't run any 0wt without very careful used oil analysis monitoring under different temperature conditions.

Short story, Kawi recommends 10w40 unless ambient is going to be above 100 degrees, then 20w50. 20w50 is good DOWN to around 30 degrees.
Quality synthetic takes care of cold-flow issues without having to resort to 0w blends that could bring warranty issues.


Given my temperatures in CA, I would never experiment with any 0w oil. If I lived in Canada or the northern US, I would give it a shot and run some samples through Blackstone!
I see this oil a lot up here, every shop carries it, and it's ok for our clutches:

"Formula 4-StrokeŽ Power Sports
0W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil (AFF)
AMSOIL Formula 4-StrokeŽ Power Sports Synthetic Motor Oil (AFF) is specially formulated for four-stroke recreational motors, ATVs and snowmobiles. Reduces wear. Wet clutch compatible. Contains no friction modifiers. Broad viscosity range makes it excellent for use in both hot and cold weather conditions."
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Old 03-26-2007   #63 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by art708
It's good enough to pass the gov't. required specs, for sure. I think the military, who is a BIG oil buyer, requires that all oils be compatable with each other so really, how big a difference could there be? I think if you change your oil and filter regularly that you won't have problems regardless which oil you use as long as it's not "energy conserving" which is supposed to cause clutch slippage.
I follow the logic and tend to agree with your reasoning, Art. I was hoping to bait Rich or someone else to give us a detailed report of this oil.
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Old 03-26-2007   #64 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2WheelFun
I follow the logic and tend to agree with your reasoning, Art. I was hoping to bait Rich or someone else to give us a detailed report of this oil.
Rich has already done that in his oil analysis thread.

Rich? One question. You mention your clutch slipping with your last batch of oil. How many miles on your bike? Original clutch? Upgraded clutch springs (from the meanie)? (OK maybe more than one question ) Just wondering if the clutch slippage could just be from mileage and normal wear and tear.
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Old 03-26-2007   #65 (permalink)
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Have you tested Amsoil? I'd like to get your oppinion on it.
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Old 03-26-2007   #66 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buzzardbane
Have you tested Amsoil? I'd like to get your oppinion on it.
Buzz
I submitted my Amsoil results in Rich's thread (page 3):
http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/fo...t=oil+analysis
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Old 03-26-2007   #67 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2WheelFun
I follow the logic and tend to agree with your reasoning, Art. I was hoping to bait Rich or someone else to give us a detailed report of this oil.
SuperTech 20W-50, or 10W-40 ? I'm still thinking it over
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Old 03-26-2007   #68 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross
Rich has already done that in his oil analysis thread.

Rich? One question. You mention your clutch slipping with your last batch of oil. How many miles on your bike? Original clutch? Upgraded clutch springs (from the meanie)? (OK maybe more than one question ) Just wondering if the clutch slippage could just be from mileage and normal wear and tear.
Actually, I think what prompted bross's comment was my threat to give Walmart's SuperTech brand a try
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Old 03-26-2007   #69 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross
Rich? One question. You mention your clutch slipping with your last batch of oil. How many miles on your bike? Original clutch? Upgraded clutch springs (from the meanie)? (OK maybe more than one question ) Just wondering if the clutch slippage could just be from mileage and normal wear and tear.
New-ish clutch.

When the Motul started slipping, I THOUGHT it was the clutch, as I had just done a couple of parades with the PGR.
I replaced the clutch with a new Barnette... according to everyone I've talked to, the last clutch I will ever have to buy.

The Barnette was installed 12/7/06 at 5500 miles (stock clutch looked fine). The Motul slipped almost immediately, and was removed and replaced with Castrol GTX at 6,000 miles.
This last oil change was at 8k.
I had NO slipping on the GTX the day I changed it out (went for a 75 mile ride in the twisties to warm up the bike prior to the change.) Noticed slippage immediately Sunday morning.
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Old 03-26-2007   #70 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross
I submitted my Amsoil results in Rich's thread (page 3):
http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/fo...t=oil+analysis
Ditto here... 2nd oil change on the bike was MCV 20w50.
Good stuff... I would not have a problem strongly recommending it to anyone riding in warmer climates.
Likewise with Mobil-1 V-Twin 20w50.

Both oils have very different additive makeup, but both held their viscosity extremely well, remaining in grade well enough to still be "confused" with a brand new oil after 2,000 miles in the California summer. I strongly suspect that both would be more than adequate for the full MOM-recommended 6,000 miles.
I run Amsoil in my Duramax to 12,000.

As a matter of fact, the analysis sheets I have posted are my SECOND set from Blackstone, as they actually did get confused and misapplied the "expected" numbers on the bottom row to the wrong report (I send in a virgin and used sample at the same time).
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Old 03-26-2007   #71 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plato
Actually, I think what prompted bross's comment was my threat to give Walmart's SuperTech brand a try
They make it in 20w50?
10w40 is out for me for the season, but I might consider it!
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Old 03-27-2007   #72 (permalink)
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I would only go with Amsoil. I'm going to have mine tested. It has 5000 miles on it. I just ordered more from the corporate store. If you get the preferred customer deal, $10 for 6 months, it will reduce your bill by 25%. They also sell the filters that will accomodate the oil. I'm also going to put this in my truck. With their filter, you are supposed to get 25,000 miles between oil changes.
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Old 03-27-2007   #73 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross
Rich has already done that in his oil analysis thread.

Rich? One question. You mention your clutch slipping with your last batch of oil. How many miles on your bike? Original clutch? Upgraded clutch springs (from the meanie)? (OK maybe more than one question ) Just wondering if the clutch slippage could just be from mileage and normal wear and tear.
Hmmm...I just looked at his report and didn't see data on the SuperTech oil. It's early and I'm still on my first cup of coffee.
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Old 03-27-2007   #74 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plato
SuperTech 20W-50, or 10W-40 ? I'm still thinking it over
With your warm summertime temps you could easily go with the 2OW-50, yes?
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Old 03-27-2007   #75 (permalink)
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Yes, I use Amsoil 20w-50 because of the heat down here. I use 10w-40 in my wife's Vn500. Also to ask a question about Supertech oil, is it designed for motorcycles?
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Old 03-27-2007   #76 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buzzardbane
With their filter, you are supposed to get 25,000 miles between oil changes.
I wouldn't do that without sending in a sample every 5k.... most filters seem barely adequate beyond 12-14k.

Most claims of 25k+ intervals are augmenting with bypass filtration. I know guys that are analysing well with 60k intervals on their Duramax engines with bypass filtration and 10k change intervals on the spin-on.

But that's not in a wet-clutch sytem with gears squeezing the snot out of the oil. I'd love to see your 5k report.
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Old 03-27-2007   #77 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichLockyer
I wouldn't do that without sending in a sample every 5k.... most filters seem barely adequate beyond 12-14k.

Most claims of 25k+ intervals are augmenting with bypass filtration. I know guys that are analysing well with 60k intervals on their Duramax engines with bypass filtration and 10k change intervals on the spin-on.

But that's not in a wet-clutch sytem with gears squeezing the snot out of the oil. I'd love to see your 5k report.
Amsoil only claim that with their filters, otherwise they still recommend changing your filter at the manufacturers recommended intervals. Man it gets complicated real quick, doesn't it. Synthetic oil may be good enough for extended drain intervals, but are our filters good enough to go that long, or should we be changing our filters based on the manufacturers drain interval?
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Old 03-27-2007   #78 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross
Amsoil only claim that with their filters, otherwise they still recommend changing your filter at the manufacturers recommended intervals. Man it gets complicated real quick, doesn't it. Synthetic oil may be good enough for extended drain intervals, but are our filters good enough to go that long, or should we be changing our filters based on the manufacturers drain interval?

Why not use a less expensive filter, eg. Walmart 1773? and change the filter at 3K and top off the oil with the Amsoil? If the oil will hold up for the extended mileage then a new filter and top-off should work well.
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Old 03-27-2007   #79 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by art708
Why not use a less expensive filter, eg. Walmart 1773? and change the filter at 3K and top off the oil with the Amsoil? If the oil will hold up for the extended mileage then a new filter and top-off should work well.
Yeah that would work. I was using Purolator Pure One filters on the meanstreak, and was all ready to do an extended drain test, but unfortunately the BMW got in the way and I just didn't put any miles on the meanstreak last year.

I have Amsoil 20W50 in the BMW using a BMW filter but I will just stick with the 10,000km drain interval recommended by BMW. I'll send a sample off once I get the 10,000km on the oil. I'm OK with the recommended drain interval for the BMW because it's air cooled, I figure the oil will be working harder than in the liquid cooled meanstreak.
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Old 03-27-2007   #80 (permalink)
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Amsoil 20w50.
Used Amsoil for 25 years with no lube related issues.
It will quiet your engine down.
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