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Old 04-01-2009   #61 (permalink)
Joram
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I will be drilling and tapping my own. The VN800 did not have the grease "nipples" and required tarring it down. I only want to do that once, so I will put in the zerk fittings.
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Old 04-02-2009   #62 (permalink)
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Belrix just wanted to say thanks for this fix. My middle zerk was gone so I went to Napa after work and got a 6mm bolt and did what you did.
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Old 04-02-2009   #63 (permalink)
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Dang it.......mine is broke off too. Did anyone have any problem getting the broken part out of the arm? Is there more than one thread pitch for a 6mm bolt ?

Next stop.......Home Depot
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Old 04-02-2009   #64 (permalink)
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there are 2 pitches available in metric sizes: 1.0 (course thread) and 1.5 (fine thread) What you need is the 1.0 course thread.
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Old 04-02-2009   #65 (permalink)
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Are we certain that the tapping for the grease nipples is not a tapered thread? If it is, the 6mm bolt might destroy the tapping.
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Old 04-02-2009   #66 (permalink)
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I'm looking at the 49001-0001 grease fitting I bought from the dealer and the threads look straight. Course thread as mention. I thought regular grease fittings were fine thread tapered.

I pulled in a parking lot from the street and ran in a large deep pot hole and the bottom of my bike scraped badly. I'm going to have to paint my frame and motor black again. Also smashed the center grease fitting. it's probably
the closest part to the ground except for the tires.
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Old 04-02-2009   #67 (permalink)
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greasenipples can come in either the straight or tapered variety, i'm wondering whether someone can confirm for sure that it is a coarse bolt thread and not a pipe thread.

EDIT
Sorry I must have missed the part where you said you got it from the dealer, i suppose you would know!
Just To be 100% tho does it say NPT anywhere on the packaging?
Thx

Last edited by Astrocreep : 04-02-2009 at 09:52 PM.
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Old 04-03-2009   #68 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Astrocreep View Post
greasenipples can come in either the straight or tapered variety, i'm wondering whether someone can confirm for sure that it is a coarse bolt thread and not a pipe thread.

EDIT
Sorry I must have missed the part where you said you got it from the dealer, i suppose you would know!
Just To be 100% tho does it say NPT anywhere on the packaging?
Thx
The length of the threads is so short "4 threads" but I'm 99% sure they are coarse straight threads. The package does say "made in Japan" and has my name on it.

Next time I go to home depot, they have SAE & metric nuts that you can screw your in item your not sure of and find the matching thread.
Someone said 6mm coarse. I'm going to check that out and go to NAPA to check them out. Dealer charges way to much for grease fittings. Cheap ones at that.

Does any body remember what 900 seat bracket you can order to fit a 2006 classic? I thought a KZ1000 bracket was the one.
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Old 04-03-2009   #69 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver Wolf View Post
I'm going to check that out and go to NAPA to check them out. Dealer charges way to much for grease fittings. Cheap ones at that..
NAPA is where I got mine.. It is part number 715-2007 . has 5 nipples. measurment is 6MM X 1.
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Old 04-03-2009   #70 (permalink)
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Default My Final Solution :-)

I started getting ready to fabricate a skid plate for my rocker arm from the left over aluminum used on my hand made lowers.... went to the hardware store for flat head screws and found these set screws, 6mm, fits just right. Put some blue locktight on and screwed flush with bottom... ready to go..




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Old 04-03-2009   #71 (permalink)
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Whoa! Very good idea. I might go back for those...

...on the other hand, the hex head of the bolt I used might protect the machined face in the event of a strike.

So - the choice is, hang a bit lower but armormed or be as smooth as possible but not as protected.
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Old 04-03-2009   #72 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Belrix View Post
Whoa! Very good idea. I might go back for those...

...on the other hand, the hex head of the bolt I used might protect the machined face in the event of a strike.

So - the choice is, hang a bit lower but armormed or be as smooth as possible but not as protected.
Good idea Hardwire. I believe I'm going to do the same thing.
Right now I'm repainting the bottom of the frame with a paint brush to cover the deep scratches/groves where it had bottomed out in the pot hole.
No one can see the under the bike unless they get on their hands and knees.
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Old 04-03-2009   #73 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver Wolf View Post
Good idea Hardwire. I believe I'm going to do the same thing.
Right now I'm repainting the bottom of the frame with a paint brush to cover the deep scratches/groves where it had bottomed out in the pot hole.
No one can see the under the bike unless they get on their hands and knees.
Did it miss with your oil pan any ?? It just seems like a bad design under there.. I realize that crusiers are not off roaders, but those speed bumps and pot holes sure feel like it...
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Last edited by Hardwire : 04-03-2009 at 08:40 PM.
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Old 04-04-2009   #74 (permalink)
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It only scraped the gusicks " can't spell it" on the motor.
The right side frame and food board.
When pulling off the road the bike goes up and big big hole was on the down side in the drive way. Normal riding I would have not scraped the bottom so bad.
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Old 04-04-2009   #75 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver Wolf View Post
It only scraped the gusicks " can't spell it" on the motor.
The right side frame and food board.
When pulling off the road the bike goes up and big big hole was on the down side in the drive way. Normal riding I would have not scraped the bottom so bad.
Thanks! I guess I'm getting paranoid in my old age, not knowing what else I have to watchout for, besides crazy cages..
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Old 04-04-2009   #76 (permalink)
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The set screws are a good idea but I wonder if rust and corrosion would be a problem since these are not SS? If they lock up in there it would be more difficult to get them out than a bolt with a hex head. I think I am going to use the SS bolts on mine.
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Old 04-04-2009   #77 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chondro View Post
The set screws are a good idea but I wonder if rust and corrosion would be a problem since these are not SS? If they lock up in there it would be more difficult to get them out than a bolt with a hex head. I think I am going to use the SS bolts on mine.
Not sure, hopefully all the grease inside and locktight on the threads will keep the oxygen away from those sections... I did put a dab of grease on the outside, but I'll just have to monitor it more than SS...
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Old 04-04-2009   #78 (permalink)
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You guys think too much, just dab a bit of grease on the hex head and youre good to go. I would not use SS screws at all, SS threads are notorious for galling and when you go to take the screws out later they just may take the threads in the cast steel with it.
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Old 04-04-2009   #79 (permalink)
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I was thinking of corrosion between the two metals. Aluminum and steel usually don't play good together. Instead of loctite, I was thinking of using never seize.
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Old 04-04-2009   #80 (permalink)
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Sorry I just assumed the rocker arm was cast iron or steel. Correct me if im wrong but is there not a galvanic reaction aswell between SS and aluminum? I'm fairly certain there is, and since its aluminum that means brass is out too. This is getting complicated. Aluminum may be the only choice here.
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