Location of the flasher on the 900 Custom?

[freightshaker]

This sounds like what Rich was saying.It seems simple enough & inexpensive too.

1. Remove the orange wire and the orange
with green stripe wire.
2. Plug factory flasher back into the socket
as it is still needed for other functions.
3. Connect the orange wire directly to the
"L" pin on the new flasher and connect
the orange w/ green stripe to the "B" pin
on the new flasher.
4. Secure new flasher in a secure location.
5. Note: You will now have two flashers.

[RichLockyer]

Originally Posted by daxamundo

I don't want to give any wrong information here, but I think you could also wire in a resistor to create a load to compensate for the switch to LEDs.

That is exactly what the load balancer is... it's just a pair of hight-wattage resistors.

You don't want to mess around with radio shack crap on this or you'll start a fire. The bulbs you are removing are about 20 watts. You are replacing them with LEDS that draw only about 2 or 3 watts. You need to make up the difference, plus 20% for safety.
I don't even think Radio Shack sells 20-25 watt power resistors anymore.

The whole point of this mod is to eliminate the NEED to use resistors or the load equalizer. The load equalizer draws 5 amps.

[RichLockyer]

Originally Posted by freightshaker

Is the 900 the same? That is the 1600 connector, but I thought the 900 connector was arranged like this:


|...|...|

[freightshaker]

No Rich, I have the 1600.
Here is a picture of the electronic flasher mounted. I like this better than using the load equalizer which gets pretty hot. Plus you can switch back & forth between LED's & incandescent bulbs with out messing with a load equalizer.
Note the 2 connectors are removed from the plug and attached to the electronic flasher. I also put yellow shrink tubing on the connectors to protect them. then zip tied it to the harness.

[freightshaker]

I don't know what connector the white one is from, but on the 1600 it's black but the wires are the exact same ones.

[RichLockyer]

Okay... for some reason I thought you had the 900.

What you did is exactly what I did.

Just keep in mind that you now no longer have self-cancelling turn signals.

[freightshaker]

Originally Posted by RichLockyer

Just keep in mind that you now no longer have self-cancelling turn signals.

I found that out right away. It's actually better though, they tend to stay on too long anyway.
Also, now I'm thinking I might run a wire from both directionals through a switch. flip the switch & hit the directionals & instant hazard lights.

[RichLockyer]

Ya, you can do that without the load equalizer, and with the auto-cancel bypassed, you can leave them flashing full-time for a parade or a PGR escort.

[meeble]

Originally Posted by freightshaker

I found that out right away. It's actually better though, they tend to stay on too long anyway.
Also, now I'm thinking I might run a wire from both directionals through a switch. flip the switch & hit the directionals & instant hazard lights.

3 questions:

1. what type of flasher are you using - where did you purchase?

2. should this work on a 2007 mean streak?

3. i'm interested in the hazzard lights idea - can you explain that a bit more?

thanks

[RichLockyer]

Originally Posted by meeble

3 questions:

1. what type of flasher are you using - where did you purchase?

2. should this work on a 2007 mean streak?

3. i'm interested in the hazzard lights idea - can you explain that a bit more?

thanks

Checker/Autozone. It's the standard 2-pin electronic flasher.
Meanie should be the same as the 1600 Classic.
For hazards, just install a switch (maybe on the back of the side cover) that connects both left and right turn signal feeds together (under the seat before they enter the fender).
Flip the switch and activating either left or right will turn on the "hazards"... only drawback is the ignition has to be on.

You could do a separate circuit with a separate flasher that is powered from the rear running light, that way you could run the hazards with the key in the "P" position.

[meeble]

thanks - i don't mind the ignition having to be on - i'd rather the front and back turn signals all be flashing anyway, not just the back.

[freightshaker]

Originally Posted by RichLockyer

Checker/Autozone. It's the standard 2-pin electronic flasher.
Meanie should be the same as the 1600 Classic.
For hazards, just install a switch (maybe on the back of the side cover) that connects both left and right turn signal feeds together (under the seat before they enter the fender).
Flip the switch and activating either left or right will turn on the "hazards"... only drawback is the ignition has to be on.

You could do a separate circuit with a separate flasher that is powered from the rear running light, that way you could run the hazards with the key in the "P" position.

Ditto

In case you're not clear though, we're talking about the electronic flasher, not a thermal flasher (which costs half as much & is in a metal case), the electronic one is in a see through case like the one in the pic of mine.

And both the front & rear will flash using either method mentioned.
Basically the switch is a controlled short between the left & right flashers, when on one causes the other to flash as well, off then all is normal

[meeble]

thanks!

[Nosajjao]

Originally Posted by daxamundo

I don't want to give any wrong information here, but I think you could also wire in a resistor to create a load to compensate for the switch to LEDs.

I just bought the Clear Alternatives setup and it came with their plug-in flasher, but I see on their website that resistors are also an option.

Not that the resistors would be easier to install, but might be easy enough to pickup from some place like Radio Shack.

I also got the Clear Alternatives Integrated taillight. I plugged and wired it. Switched out the stock flasher with the one they sent. And it worked. For about a day. Then the signals just came on solid. So I got those resistors, but I don't know if my flasher relay is shot or not until I finish putting the resistors in. It says to connect one end of the resistor to the positive wire and yellow wire of the turn signal (simple enough). But it says to connect the other end of the resistor to the negative turn signal wire, but the only other wire is the ground wire. Is this considered the negative wire to connect it to? I don't want to melt anything in the process of fixing this. *NOTE* I still have the stock turn signals on the front of the bike so maybe thats why this is all jacked up?

[RichLockyer]

The frame ground is the negative.

But if it's on solid, I think the flasher is shot.

[Nosajjao]

Originally Posted by RichLockyer

The frame ground is the negative.

But if it's on solid, I think the flasher is shot.

Whether or not I need a new flasher, should I wire the negative wire both to the resistor AND the frame as a ground? I know this sounds common sense but I just want to make sure I don't fry any components.

[freightshaker]

Originally Posted by RichLockyer

Checker/Autozone. It's the standard 2-pin electronic flasher.
Meanie should be the same as the 1600 Classic.
For hazards, just install a switch (maybe on the back of the side cover) that connects both left and right turn signal feeds together (under the seat before they enter the fender).
Flip the switch and activating either left or right will turn on the "hazards"... only drawback is the ignition has to be on.

You could do a separate circuit with a separate flasher that is powered from the rear running light, that way you could run the hazards with the key in the "P" position.

Ditto Exactly

[RichLockyer]

Originally Posted by Nosajjao

Whether or not I need a new flasher, should I wire the negative wire both to the resistor AND the frame as a ground? I know this sounds common sense but I just want to make sure I don't fry any components.

When the flasher worked, if it flashed at the proper rate, you don't need the resistor.

But what I was saying is that the frame IS the turn signal's negative wire. The resistor connects between the hot wire to the turn signal and the chassis. You can use the aux ground connector under the seat or one of the mounting bolts for a light-duty bracket on the frame such as the battery hold-down.