Shifting problems

[stew]

Shifting problems in hot weather? I had shifting problems from nurtral to 1st when it was hot outside on my 04 Nomad. When I took it to the dealer they said to replace the clutch fluid with valvoline synthetic Dot 3/4 in the clutch. This is because the synthetic has a higher boil point and with the clutch line running so close to the engine it heats up. I just did this today and found a great way to do it without bleeding problems. Here is a link on how to do it easy and cheep http://www.moccsplace.com/images/bra...er/bleeder.htm I will let you know if the shifting problem goes away when it gets hot around here. And with it being Houston,TX that can be any day now.

[ispeed77]

thanks for link. i haven't had any problems with shifting on my 03, but hopefully that cures your problems.

[semo rider]

Hello, I have an 04 Classic, at the 1st service(600 mile) the Kaw mechanic put in Kaw oil 20w-50 and I had the same problem, so I drained it after only 40 miles and put Kaw 10w-40 back in it, it did fine then, at 3600 miles I went to the dealer and they didn't have any 10w-40 (Yes it pi$$ed me off, that they didn't even have oil for it, I don't go to them for anything now), anyway I went to another local bike shop they sell used bikes and do service work, have some accessories etc, I got Castrol ACT/Evo 10w-40 I think it's semi synthetic, and now it does the same thing again, not going into 1st from neutral, I think I'm going to use the Shell Rotella (full synthetic for diesel engines) 5w-40 next time. Anyway, on mine the not wanting to go from netral to 1st seems to be related to the oil and not the clutch???!!! Just my observations

[ispeed77]

semo
i would post a question before going with the rotella. it is my understanding that you need to use oil rated for motorcycles, due to the wet clutch system. that topic has come up quite a bit in recent months if you want to do a search.

[semo rider]

Thanks, I've been researching this oil question myself for at least 3 years, the last and so far best info I have (regarding the wet clutch and slipping and so on) shows that you don't want to use the NEW auto oils because they have gone to moly lube stuff for energy conservation,( they aren't using the zddp stuff as they used to) also auto oils viscosity deteriorates due to the shear factor of the polymers in the oil when used in the M/C transmissions!!! But diesel or commercial rated oils don't deteriorate nearly as bad. I don't know if this will work, but I found some good info here: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html
I found it particularly interesting that the Kawasaki oil label said it meets or exceeds the JASO specs, but it didn't have the JASO label on it, while the Castrol ACT/Evo oil had the JASO sticker,which says that there oil has been tested by and approved to have the actual sticker on it. Kinda like the API circle on auto oil, any way I'm going to go with the Rotella T full synthetic, I honestly believe it'll be best for the bike,
another interesting item I found was that synthetic oil is NOT necesarily man made oil, nor is it necesarily super slippery(which is what I thought synthetic meant) It can be dino oil that has been refined to a point where almost all the impuities are gone and the additive package is the most synthetic part of the oil.

[ispeed77]

well as long as you are informed, that is all that matters. sounds like you have done your homework already, so go for it. i actually use Rotella synthetic in my truck and i love it, hopefully it will treat your bike as good.

[stew]

I had the oil changed at 600 mil by the dealer. And then at 3000 I put in Mobil 1 synthetic V-twin motorcycle oil 20w-50. I have not had any shifting problems since but the weather cooled off right around the time I changed the oil. So I am not sure if it the weather change or the oil change. So I thought I would do the clutch fluid too since the dealer and another forum said that this was a fix for the problem too.