Adjusting clutch lever

*jukief* · 03-28-2005

My husband and I went out to practice slow maneuvers yesterday in preparation for the experienced rider course we're taking Saturday. We were practicing using the friction zone in first gear, going really slow (3-5 mph), and feathering the rear brake. I found that it's a lot harder to do this on my 1500; there's hardly any play in the clutch. I'm not talking about the adjustment you make to the clutch to make it closer to or farther away from the grip; I mean the area of play from where the clutch starts to catch until it's all the way out. I had my hubby ride my bike to see if it's just me, and he agrees that there's very little play in the clutch. I looked at the clutch because I was pretty sure there's a cable that you use to make this adjustment, but I couldn't see anything. Can anyone tell me whether I can make this adjustment and how?

Thanks in advance for answering my ignorant question!

*ispeed77* · 03-28-2005

i am intested in the correct answer as well. i am no mechanic and i don't fully understand how the hydraulic clutch works, which i assume you also have. i will be waiting to see the answers from the mechanical oriented riders on here.

JoeNomad1 · 03-28-2005

The hydraulic clutch is self adjusting. That is one of the benefits. You should have a friction zone that allows you to put just enough pressure in a forward motion to balance the bike without putting your feet on the ground. You might want to check the fluid level and it might be an adjustment of the clutch plates. This means a trip to the motorcycle doctor.

*jukief* · 03-28-2005

Thanks, Joe. I didn't know how the hydraulic clutch worked. There's so little play in it that the friction zone is really tough to maintain. I think I'll have my shop take a look at it. The fluid level is OK, but the plates might need adjustment.

Thanks again! You guys know *everything*!

centerpunch · 03-28-2005

My new Nomad is the same way. I think it just takes a lot of practice to get it down. I have been doing a lot of slow speed practice also and I would say I have about 1/2 inch between full clutch and no clutch.

**2WheelFun** · 03-28-2005

Mine is like DJ's...and probably like most of the Kawi 1500 / 1600 cruisers.

**Spok** · 03-29-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by whistle clean

Mine is like DJ's...and probably like most of the Kawi 1500 / 1600 cruisers.

I concure and second this opinion. I have about 1/2 inch of zone

Lee_2061 · 03-29-2005

And an answer for me too.
Always wondered why they put a cable clutch on the V2K.
The only upgrade Barnett could come up with were different springs.
It handles very well at crawling speeds and U-turns.
Hmm....

*jukief* · 03-29-2005

It helps to know your bikes are the same. I won't worry about it, then. I'll just have to practice more. Thanks, guys!

grunt · 03-29-2005

I have a 98 VN Classic. There is a wheel on the clutch lever numbered 1-4. If the newer ones have it, set it to number 4 and you will see a difference.

**Spok** · 03-29-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by grunt

I have a 98 VN Classic. There is a wheel on the clutch lever numbered 1-4. If the newer ones have it, set it to number 4 and you will see a difference.

its not the adjustment on the lever we're talking about but the friction zone in the clutch itself

grunt · 03-29-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by spok

its not the adjustment on the lever we're talking about but the friction zone in the clutch itself

If you make the adjustment, you will see an improvement in the friction zone. Try it!

T-man · 03-29-2005

The hydraulic-actuated clutch is just a link between the clutch and the hand-operated clutch lever as opposed to a cable and bell crank. It's just a hand-operated master cylinder sending fluid to a slave cylinder under the left engine cover. It is generally a smoother operating unit than a cable-operated clutch over time - cables acquire varying over time due to wear and dirt - and a hydraulic clutch can be designed to give a mechanical advantage (as can a cable and crank). There is no mechanical adjustment to widen or narrow the friction zone.

My 2001 seem to have a "typical" friction zone in that it requires feathering just at the point that the clutch plates begin to make contact. I tend to let the engine idle and slowly let out the clutch to the point there is some load being transferred from engine to the drive line, then give a little throttle to just start the bike rolling. Once rolling, I apply the rear brake lightly and make the engine power through the lightly applied rear brake. It does take a lot of practice and I do not claim to be proficient, but I can turn the handlebars around half way to the stops and feather the clutch, gas, and rear brake while making this manuver. It is tougher with two-up for me, but still possible. Always want to be on a stable surface when doing this (no gravel!). One seems to get a remarkable amount of stability by making the engine power through the rear brake.

The type of oil used MAY affect the ability to slip the clutch like this, but I have no data to say which oil is different EXCEPT automotive oils. They should not be used because they have friction modifiers that are not compatible with wet clutch motorcycle drives (they slip far too much and reduce the friction coefficient to low levels).

BTW, some folks put pipe insulation over their engine guards during this practice for obvious reasons!!

grunt · 03-29-2005

I just made a simple suggestion that has worked for me.

Call it Kentucky Windage.

All I know is that on setting number 1, I have no friction zone. On setting four, I have some.

*jukief* · 03-29-2005

Thanks for the great explanation, T-man.

*ispeed77* · 03-29-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by spok

I concure and second this opinion. I have about 1/2 inch of zone

hmmm, now i am wondering how much there is on mine. never really thought about it, i just ride it. i guess i am gonna have to check !

*jukief* · 03-29-2005

I never notice it when I'm just doing my regular riding. It's trying to do that slow maneuvering in the friction zone where I really notice it.

*ispeed77* · 03-29-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by jukief

I never notice it when I'm just doing my regular riding. It's trying to do that slow maneuvering in the friction zone where I really notice it.

yeah, i haven't really messed around with slow speed maneuvers, just high speed ones

**2WheelFun** · 03-29-2005

Not to steer the topic away from the "Friction Zone" but I just ordered Jerry Palladino's new DVD called Surviving the Mean Streets. It's about group riding, riding in traffic, possible hazards to be aware of while approaching intersections. I liked the Ride like a Pro III DVD so much that I ordered this one. I'll be sure to give a mini review of it after I've had a chance to watch it.

OK....now returning to the "Friction Zone".

*jukief* · 03-29-2005

I was looking at that video last night, Cary! Let me know how you like it. I'm thinking about ordering it next.

03-28-2005	#1 (permalink)
jukief I miss you, Deron Extreme Forum Supporter Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Manchester, NH Posts: 19,469	Adjusting clutch lever My husband and I went out to practice slow maneuvers yesterday in preparation for the experienced rider course we're taking Saturday. We were practicing using the friction zone in first gear, going really slow (3-5 mph), and feathering the rear brake. I found that it's a lot harder to do this on my 1500; there's hardly any play in the clutch. I'm not talking about the adjustment you make to the clutch to make it closer to or farther away from the grip; I mean the area of play from where the clutch starts to catch until it's all the way out. I had my hubby ride my bike to see if it's just me, and he agrees that there's very little play in the clutch. I looked at the clutch because I was pretty sure there's a cable that you use to make this adjustment, but I couldn't see anything. Can anyone tell me whether I can make this adjustment and how? Thanks in advance for answering my ignorant question! __________________ In memory of my friend Deron Harden. Life isn't going to be the same without him.

03-28-2005	#2 (permalink)
ispeed77 RIP Deron Harden :-( Extreme Forum Supporter Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Gardner, MA Posts: 32,533	i am intested in the correct answer as well. i am no mechanic and i don't fully understand how the hydraulic clutch works, which i assume you also have. i will be waiting to see the answers from the mechanical oriented riders on here. __________________ David - Moderator 2002 Suzuki DRZ400 2003 1500 Meanie, scraping pipes and frame :-) In loving memory of Deron Harden, forever in our thoughts :-(

03-28-2005	#3 (permalink)
JoeNomad1 Wants better weather! BTK Expert Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Fl weather I've been waiting for! Posts: 875	The hydraulic clutch is self adjusting. That is one of the benefits. You should have a friction zone that allows you to put just enough pressure in a forward motion to balance the bike without putting your feet on the ground. You might want to check the fluid level and it might be an adjustment of the clutch plates. This means a trip to the motorcycle doctor. __________________ 99 Green Nomad VH Dual Baggers Extra Chrome Bits Hi Five Air Cleaner

03-28-2005	#4 (permalink)
jukief I miss you, Deron Extreme Forum Supporter Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Manchester, NH Posts: 19,469	Thanks, Joe. I didn't know how the hydraulic clutch worked. There's so little play in it that the friction zone is really tough to maintain. I think I'll have my shop take a look at it. The fluid level is OK, but the plates might need adjustment. Thanks again! You guys know everything! __________________ In memory of my friend Deron Harden. Life isn't going to be the same without him.

03-28-2005	#5 (permalink)
centerpunch Refrigerator Magnet Test Engineer BTK Expert Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: oregon Posts: 488	My new Nomad is the same way. I think it just takes a lot of practice to get it down. I have been doing a lot of slow speed practice also and I would say I have about 1/2 inch between full clutch and no clutch. __________________ Ride Far and Prosper :) DJ 2005 "Vulcan" Nomad (Silver & Blue) Cobra light bar Kuryakyn Highway pegs Vistacruise throttle lock Custom built lowers Audiovox Electronic CC * 1977 Suzuki GS 550 *

03-28-2005	#6 (permalink)
2WheelFun the "fun" guy Extreme Forum Supporter Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Albion, Washington "Pacific Northwest" Posts: 32,676	Mine is like DJ's...and probably like most of the Kawi 1500 / 1600 cruisers. __________________ *KING KAHUNA* *2007 V2K LT* ****PICS** 2007 Brute Force 650i **PICS** I love the smell of SeaFoam in the morning**

03-29-2005	#8 (permalink)
Lee_2061 V2K Blingaphile BTK Expert Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Western Australia Posts: 1,791	And an answer for me too. Always wondered why they put a cable clutch on the V2K. The only upgrade Barnett could come up with were different springs. It handles very well at crawling speeds and U-turns. Hmm.... __________________ VROC17211 ROG189 UMC38326 V2KBUM#3 www.cruisercustomizing.com/lee_2061 www.flipdrive.com/silkfire

03-29-2005	#9 (permalink)
jukief I miss you, Deron Extreme Forum Supporter Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Manchester, NH Posts: 19,469	It helps to know your bikes are the same. I won't worry about it, then. I'll just have to practice more. Thanks, guys! __________________ In memory of my friend Deron Harden. Life isn't going to be the same without him.

03-29-2005	#10 (permalink)
grunt Uncle Bob's Love Child BTK Expert Join Date: Jun 2004 Posts: 279	I have a 98 VN Classic. There is a wheel on the clutch lever numbered 1-4. If the newer ones have it, set it to number 4 and you will see a difference.

03-29-2005	#13 (permalink)
T-man Deerslayer & BTK Expert Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Maryville, TN Posts: 1,266	The hydraulic-actuated clutch is just a link between the clutch and the hand-operated clutch lever as opposed to a cable and bell crank. It's just a hand-operated master cylinder sending fluid to a slave cylinder under the left engine cover. It is generally a smoother operating unit than a cable-operated clutch over time - cables acquire varying over time due to wear and dirt - and a hydraulic clutch can be designed to give a mechanical advantage (as can a cable and crank). There is no mechanical adjustment to widen or narrow the friction zone. My 2001 seem to have a "typical" friction zone in that it requires feathering just at the point that the clutch plates begin to make contact. I tend to let the engine idle and slowly let out the clutch to the point there is some load being transferred from engine to the drive line, then give a little throttle to just start the bike rolling. Once rolling, I apply the rear brake lightly and make the engine power through the lightly applied rear brake. It does take a lot of practice and I do not claim to be proficient, but I can turn the handlebars around half way to the stops and feather the clutch, gas, and rear brake while making this manuver. It is tougher with two-up for me, but still possible. Always want to be on a stable surface when doing this (no gravel!). One seems to get a remarkable amount of stability by making the engine power through the rear brake. The type of oil used MAY affect the ability to slip the clutch like this, but I have no data to say which oil is different EXCEPT automotive oils. They should not be used because they have friction modifiers that are not compatible with wet clutch motorcycle drives (they slip far too much and reduce the friction coefficient to low levels). BTW, some folks put pipe insulation over their engine guards during this practice for obvious reasons!! __________________ T-man VROC #12333 2005 V2K Ltd 2001 1500 Classic FI http://www.geocities.com/tensman_99/mcpics.html

03-29-2005	#14 (permalink)
grunt Uncle Bob's Love Child BTK Expert Join Date: Jun 2004 Posts: 279	I just made a simple suggestion that has worked for me. Call it Kentucky Windage. All I know is that on setting number 1, I have no friction zone. On setting four, I have some.

03-29-2005	#15 (permalink)
jukief I miss you, Deron Extreme Forum Supporter Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Manchester, NH Posts: 19,469	Thanks for the great explanation, T-man. __________________ In memory of my friend Deron Harden. Life isn't going to be the same without him.

03-29-2005	#17 (permalink)
jukief I miss you, Deron Extreme Forum Supporter Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Manchester, NH Posts: 19,469	I never notice it when I'm just doing my regular riding. It's trying to do that slow maneuvering in the friction zone where I really notice it. __________________ In memory of my friend Deron Harden. Life isn't going to be the same without him.

03-29-2005	#19 (permalink)
2WheelFun the "fun" guy Extreme Forum Supporter Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Albion, Washington "Pacific Northwest" Posts: 32,676	Not to steer the topic away from the "Friction Zone" but I just ordered Jerry Palladino's new DVD called Surviving the Mean Streets. It's about group riding, riding in traffic, possible hazards to be aware of while approaching intersections. I liked the Ride like a Pro III DVD so much that I ordered this one. I'll be sure to give a mini review of it after I've had a chance to watch it. OK....now returning to the "Friction Zone". __________________ *KING KAHUNA* *2007 V2K LT* ****PICS** 2007 Brute Force 650i **PICS** I love the smell of SeaFoam in the morning**

03-29-2005	#20 (permalink)
jukief I miss you, Deron Extreme Forum Supporter Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Manchester, NH Posts: 19,469	I was looking at that video last night, Cary! Let me know how you like it. I'm thinking about ordering it next. __________________ In memory of my friend Deron Harden. Life isn't going to be the same without him.

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