Battery replaced, now no power... Please help

[tedsim]

Hi there all.

Yes, I just registered here, because I am going out of my gourd from the past two days.

I have a 2002 Meanstreak, 5010 miles, no engine add ons or modifications, very stock.

My battery was drained after being outside all winter, and wasn't really holding a charge. I had drained it a couple of times by leaving the ignition on, but it always took a charge fine.

Now, I have not done anything else but charge the battery, but as I have an interested party looking to buy it, I thought I would get a new battery and other clean up items.

I had to special order the battery from a suzuki dealer in town and the model is MTX16-bs. I got the battery home and put the electrolyte fluid in and the bike started right up. The next day, I go outside for a ride, and after I turn the ignition on, nothing happens, no lights, horn, indicators nothing. I charged the battery 9 hours and tested it with a brand new voltmeter and it shows 12.9 volts, a nice charged fresh battery.

I install the battery and I get nothing. I have checked all the fuses, but that is the extent of my repair knowledge.

I have never had a single problem with anything on this bike until now. I am going out of my head. Any thoughts or ideas of what I am looking at here?

[CSA2lt]

Take the battery to Advance Auto or Autozone. The voltage needs to be checked with a load on it. Using a voltmeter will just give an incomplete picture of the battery's condition. Also, the possibility exists that there is a dead short internally.

Hope this helps-

[tedsim]

Thanks for the tip, I was thinking about that possibility. I put the ignition on with the battery installed, and got a reading of 12.36.

I see what you are saying, but I was thinking that I should get at least something happening with the lights, fuel pump, ANYTHING other than completely dead, even with a battery that has some charge on it.

It seems like the battery has something, but the electricity just isn't going anywhere.

Jeez, all i did was undo 2 screws holding the battery in, and now this. oh yeah, my Protection Plan expired 2 days ago.

[grandpawmoses]

Your protection plan probably wouldn't cover a battery anyway.
What CSA2lt says is correct. The voltage test must be done under a heavy load. Check the voltage while you push the starter button. If it dosen't drop and the starter doesn't try to spin you have a system failure (fuse, solinoid, switch, kill switch in wrong position, etc). If it drops much below 12 volts and just slowly recovers, I'd suspect the battery. The auto parts store will be able to test it. I'm assuming you do get idiot lights when the switch is on. If you don't and you have a 12 volt reading, it's probably not the battery.
David

[tedsim]

Yeah, I do NOT get idiot lights, fuel pump doesn't turn on, its completely dead. Ill check the voltage when the starter button is depressed tomorrow, but I do suspect a system failure.

Thats why I mentioned the protection plan, as I suspect something other than the battery now, and it sucks that its 2 days out of warranty, no trailer to get it to the mechanic, and this is the first trouble I have had in 3 years.

Thanks for the tips!

[Crue]

Did you check all your fuses? They're behind the right side panel. It might just be a blown fuse. I had a dead battery in my 800, it wouldn't even hold a charge but my lights still came on. It sounds like a blown fuse to me but I'm no mechanic.

[tedsim]

yep, I checked all the fuses, paying especially close to the ignition fuse in the fuse box and that big ol 30amp on the solinoid (i think thats what it is)

[Phatboy]

Originally Posted by tedsim

I had to special order the battery from a suzuki dealer in town and the model is MTX16-bs.

Oh I see the problem. You special ordered a battery with "-bs" in the model number and now that is what you have

Sorry- couldn't help it. What happens when you put the old battery back in? If its the same then its the bike and not the battery.

[Lee_2061]

Dead ignition switch, blown fuse, bad contacts, wires with internal break that's aggravated when changing battery.
BTW. Fully charged 12V battery should read 13-14V+ no load and at least 13 under load.

[rwrighter]

[quote=tedsim]Thanks for the tip, I was thinking about that possibility. I put the ignition on with the battery installed, and got a reading of 12.36.]

12.36 volts should be a fully charged battery. it does sound as though you have another problem. The voltage should read 13-14+ while running if the charging system is working properly. I did a test on the battery in my truck, before starting it 12.23 volts after starting 14.66volts, ran errands, came home and shut it off, checked voltage, read 13.8 and gradually dropped to 12.3 volts within about 3 minutes.

[tedsim]

Well, like I mentioned, I'm not qualified to work on this thing, and my new battery shows every sign of being charged, so I am letting my dealer come and get it and get it diagnosed. I thought it was a strange coincidence that it was running fine, changed the battery and have this type of problem, but it looks like something other than the battery.

Ill update on thursday if anyone cares to know the outcome. Guess away!

[grandpawmoses]

Originally Posted by tedsim

if anyone cares to know the outcome. Guess away!

About $200

[ispeed77]

i would guess it is something as simple as a blown fuse, a bad solenoid or a connector undone. my clutch switch connector came apart on me and i had similar problmes. i don't recall whether or not the idiot lights or the fuel pump came on though.