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Old 10-10-2008   #881 (permalink)
therachels
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hello

i have a 2006 vulcan 500, I bought it used. It worked fine and it sat for a few weeks and now i cant start it. I thought it was just out of gas so i filled it up to the top with gas and still wont start. It sounds like it is trying to but just wont turn over. My girlfriend i tryed to pust start it by trying to push it as fast as we could and then just shifting into first with out the cluch but we couldnt get it going fast enough becuase it would just stall out.

does anyone have an suggesstions? I was thinking it might be the spark plugs but it sounds like that might be somewhat of a task...(i was reading and it sounds like i have to remove the gas tank) I dont want to have to do that if that is not the problem.

Thank you
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Old 10-11-2008   #882 (permalink)
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My first guess would be a bad battery. Take it out and charge it. While it's out, see if there is any fluid in the battery.

My '06's battery barely lasted two years.
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Old 10-11-2008   #883 (permalink)
therachels
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I just got a new battery about 2-3 months ago when my battery died. Do you think it could be the connection to the battery?


thank you
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Old 10-11-2008   #884 (permalink)
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It's possible. The 500's are known for having crappy connectors. Make sure everything is tight under there. You might also have a problem with the charging system not putting out enough juice and thus your battery draining, but your bike is still pretty new for that.

I'm not sure what it could be beyond that. Yeah, getting the sparks out requires removal of the tank, but it's not that bad. First, take off the bottom bolt on the gauge cluster (just below the speedo) and pull the gauge cluster off. Then, there are two bolts holding the tank on: one below the gauge cluster and one at the bottom of the tank covered by the edge of the seat. Then, gently lift the tank so you can pull the two hoses off the petcock (make sure the petcock is set to ON or RES, not PRIME). That's it.
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Old 10-12-2008   #885 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by therachels View Post
I just got a new battery about 2-3 months ago when my battery died. Do you think it could be the connection to the battery?


thank you
Hello... welcome to the forum!

Sounds like a battery/power problem to me as well, but you're never going to figure it out until you at least get it turning over, and turning over with authority. If the battery is that new, charge it thoroughly. Drop it in, and crank it according to your manual (cold engine, full choke, no throttle). If it won't start then, let us know...

You won't likely get it started trying to jump it until it's been running first, but for the next attempt, try it in second gear, not first... you'll have more success with it turning over and not stalling it, less comprssion.

Good luck, and let us know what the next attempt brings! We'll get it going...
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Old 10-12-2008   #886 (permalink)
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Well, I got the 800B de-baffled today... And all I can say is Damn, what a mess.

It really wouldn't have been too bad, except some prior owner decided to do the 8 holes through the back plate and baffle trick... And then somebody else came along later and welded those holes up.

The end result was that I not only had to drill and cut through 2 layers of steel, but also 8 thick, hard welds.

I ended up dulling 2 bits, breaking 5 metal cutting jigsaw blades, and wearing out something like 18 Dremel cut-off wheels.

But I got there. And the bike sounds much better now, as well as seeming to run just a bit better.
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Old 10-12-2008   #887 (permalink)
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Make sure you don't have the kill switch on...red switch on your right handle bar. It gave me _ _ _ _.
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Old 10-13-2008   #888 (permalink)
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Well I finally got it started. I think I was just being stupid. The gas was low and I think I drained the battery before I realized the gas was low. I have to get used to looking at the trip, I’m not used to not have a fuel gauge. After I charged the battery it started up no problem.

Thanks for all the help...im really glad I didn’t have to mess with taking the tank off!
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Old 10-13-2008   #889 (permalink)
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LoL!
none of us have ever done that of course
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Old 10-13-2008   #890 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweet N' Low View Post
Well I am new to the forum, but I have a question already. I have a VN900 Custom and I ordered some Vance & Hines Staggered Slashcuts and a Vance & Hines Fuelpak for the bike. My question is this: will there be noticeable gains in any area of performance or will the additions be purely cosmetic and audible? Thanks in advance for any opinions.
Yes, nothing too drastic so don't expect like 20hp or anything, but there should be a noticable performance gain. Likely around +5-7% HP and Torque with better mid-range throttle response.
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Old 10-13-2008   #891 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by therachels View Post
Well I finally got it started. I think I was just being stupid. The gas was low and I think I drained the battery before I realized the gas was low. I have to get used to looking at the trip, I’m not used to not have a fuel gauge. After I charged the battery it started up no problem.

Thanks for all the help...im really glad I didn’t have to mess with taking the tank off!
Not a problem! It will PROBABLY only take this one time for you to begin remembering to watch the trip... and don't sweat taking the tank off, it'll happen one day and you'll find out that's no big deal either!

Have fun!
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Old 10-13-2008   #892 (permalink)
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Thanks Gunner...I was hoping to get a little more out of it. I almost bought the hypercharger as well but decided to hold off for a while. I am still torn between the H-charger and a big air kit...which do you think would be the best?
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Old 10-14-2008   #893 (permalink)
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I would say it is just a matter or personal preference as far as the hypercharger or big air. The cfm rating of either is far more than the engine would ever use. The hypercharger does stick out a bit more so make sure your leg is OK with that. Not usually a problem (leg hitting the hyper) unless you have some kind of extreme forward controls (more than 4" from stock).
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Old 10-14-2008   #894 (permalink)
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Thanks again...I personally think the BAK looks better and like you said...it doesnt stick out as far. There a more designs available for the BAK.
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Old 10-14-2008   #895 (permalink)
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You do not have to remove the tank. Take out both front and rear bolts. Cut you a short (6") piece of 2x4. Lift the rear up and insert the 2x4 on it's edge and that is enough room to use the plug socket supplied in the tool kit to get the left side plug out that is blocked by the fuel valve.

Done it this way many times. I had a 500 for almost a year. Just sold it 3 weeks ago. Bought it new to get the 30 year rust off before I got my Nomad in May. Loved the sucker. Pulled a few tricks and it would run 112 in 6th on flat ground. DO NOT PUT A K&N FILTER ON IT. It gets to much air and will run way to lean and will eat plugs up every 500-600 miles. The stock filter kept clean will do the job.

I did have loose connections on the battery ground side one time. Be sure to check all connections. Walmart sells a battery that fits. They are just as good as any. I don't think the charging system is that good. Get you a battery tender and keep it on it when not in use. It makes the battery last longer anyway. Well worth the $. This time of the year watch for sales on them. They must make good Christmas presents. Just about every year when it gets close to the holidays you can usually pick up one for 45. I would not mess with the Jr. model or the dual unless you have 2 batteries.

Some scootworks scorpion pipes, #108 main jets, shim out the carb. needles .018" and it will get up and run.

Good luck!
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Old 10-15-2008   #896 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweet N' Low View Post
Thanks again...I personally think the BAK looks better and like you said...it doesnt stick out as far. There a more designs available for the BAK.
Sounds good... don't forget pictures when you get it done. We require motorcycle pr0n here =)
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Old 10-15-2008   #897 (permalink)
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Will Do.
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Old 10-16-2008   #898 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nomadfool View Post
You do not have to remove the tank. Take out both front and rear bolts. Cut you a short (6") piece of 2x4. Lift the rear up and insert the 2x4 on it's edge and that is enough room to use the plug socket supplied in the tool kit to get the left side plug out that is blocked by the fuel valve.
If you're going through the trouble of unbolting everything, why not just pull off the two hoses and remove the tank altogether rather than trying to work around it?
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Old 10-16-2008   #899 (permalink)
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hey everybody

sorry i havent been here in a while just been busy, well ive got the drag bars on the pegs extended and my next project is to lower they bike in the rear and a new seat to finish off the job and that will take effect next spring/summer so im excited with what i got. I will try to post some pics here soon so let me know if anybody has any questions i will give the best answer i can thanks.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #900 (permalink)
Sweet N' Low
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Default Vance & Hines

Well I got my V&H staggereds yesterday and I am going to try to get them on this weekend and get some pictures for you guys. I was looking at the pipes and trying to figure out how to take out the baffles(one screw...came out easy). I told my friend I was thinking about taking them out and he said it will cause back pressure problems. I also got the V&H FuelPak. Will the fuelpak account for taking the baffles out or will I have back pressure problems like he said?
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