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Old 11-21-2008   #1 (permalink)
flbiker
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Default 600 mile service

Hey guys,
Taking my vulcan 900 in for its 600 mile service....what should I expect to pay...what should I make sure they check?
Thanks!
Pete
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Old 11-21-2008   #2 (permalink)
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I will taking mine in also next week for the same service. After that I plan on doing the regular maintenance myself. But this sounds like a really good "go-over" that they do. I think my dealer said it was somewhere around $200 total for labor and parts (oil change). I don't know what all they do or should do, so I'm also interested in the answers.

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Old 11-21-2008   #3 (permalink)
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I had mine done last week. Cost me $220.00. Make sure they actually change the oil filter. I didn't have a problem but I've read about others that didn't get theirs changed. Other than that, they're supposed to check all the adjustments, ie: clutch, brakes, etc, improper tire wear, etc. It's basically a good "going over" to make sure everythings OK. I don't have it with me but my dealer gave me a checklist of the things they did.
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Old 11-21-2008   #4 (permalink)
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Expect them to charge anywhere from $75 to $350.
Expect them to actually DO an oil change and if you're lucky, check your belt tension.

If they do the job right, it'll take several hours and they will check the torque on all of your fasteners, radiator hose clamps, throttle cable adjustment, idle adjustment, and a few other minor things.

Want to have some fun? When you pull into their parking lot, unplug the brake light wire from the front brake and see if they catch it.
Put a chalk mark on the bottom of your oil filter and see if it's still there.

My personal opinion? Spend the $55 on the service manual and to the work yourself. You'll save a lot of money, you'll know it's done and done right, and you'll get to know your bike so when you have a problem on the highway you may not have to call for a tow.
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Old 11-21-2008   #5 (permalink)
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Oh ya... when you get it back, if your FI and oil light comes on when you're at idle, adjust your idle up a bit.

A lot of dealers turn the idle down to 100-200rpm below spec "because people like it", and it results in low/no oil pressure. Your idle spec is 1000 +/-50.
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Old 11-21-2008   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks for the replies.I knew the forum would come through for me,Going to mark the oil filter,let you all know if my dealer passes the test.
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Old 11-21-2008   #7 (permalink)
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Do it yourself or you'll pay for the most expensive oil change known to man.
That's ALL they do
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Old 11-21-2008   #8 (permalink)
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I had the dealer do mine this fall. Cost something like $150. I waited in the show room. Took about 1 hour. On the way home, my right side mirror started flopping in the wind and a windshield bolt was loose. I will never do that again!!
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Old 11-22-2008   #9 (permalink)
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Just got the bike home after the $232 oil change,at least they changed the filter,I went over the service list with the tech and he verified they checked every thing,the bike ran great on the way home.The service mgr did tell me that these bike are among the most trouble free out there.I'll do my own oil changes from now on,but I'm glad I had the dealer do the first service.
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Old 12-01-2008   #10 (permalink)
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I got mine done last Tuesday on my 09 900. It was $155, they changed the oil and reduced the play in the clutch and throttle. From here on out I will do oil changes myself, but do feel more comfortable they did a complete once-over on the bike after the 600 miles. I trust my local dealer, they've been fair and open with me so far.

Thanks all for all the replies.
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Old 12-01-2008   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichLockyer View Post
Expect them to charge anywhere from $75 to $350.
Expect them to actually DO an oil change and if you're lucky, check your belt tension.

If they do the job right, it'll take several hours and they will check the torque on all of your fasteners, radiator hose clamps, throttle cable adjustment, idle adjustment, and a few other minor things.

Want to have some fun? When you pull into their parking lot, unplug the brake light wire from the front brake and see if they catch it.
Put a chalk mark on the bottom of your oil filter and see if it's still there.

My personal opinion? Spend the $55 on the service manual and to the work yourself. You'll save a lot of money, you'll know it's done and done right, and you'll get to know your bike so when you have a problem on the highway you may not have to call for a tow.
My bike had the foot pegs switched around when I bought it so that instead of wearing down the metal when I touched down...it would wear down the rubber pad...

Needless to say, I'm not confident in my dealer's ability to work on my bike...


I'm looking into that manual...got the 7500 mile service coming up soon.
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Old 12-01-2008   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by accord_guy View Post
Do it yourself or you'll pay for the most expensive oil change known to man.
That's ALL they do
+1
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Old 12-01-2008   #13 (permalink)
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I had changed my oil prior at 300 mi. but took it into my dealer for the 600 mi check. Cost me $50 w/ no oil change.
The dealer asked me about what, if anything, I found when I pulled the filter screen, and what the oil looked like when I drained it.
Other than that, they used the owners manual and did each item listed under the 600 mi maint.
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Old 12-01-2008   #14 (permalink)
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IMHO the first service should be free, seeing it entails nothing major and would be cheap PR for the dealer..............
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Old 12-01-2008   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VIVADUDE View Post
IMHO the first service should be free, seeing it entails nothing major and would be cheap PR for the dealer..............
If there are no other dealers close by. They want the money more then the pr. No competitions. This is a big income for the dealers.
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Old 12-01-2008   #16 (permalink)
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I don't trust anyone to change the oil in any of my vehicles. A loose or stripped drain plug or a loose or over tightened filter can be real problems down the road. In many cases the dealers don't even prep the bike properly when they are sold. If you want it done right, do it yourself.
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Old 12-01-2008   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichLockyer View Post
Oh ya... when you get it back, if your FI and oil light comes on when you're at idle, adjust your idle up a bit.

A lot of dealers turn the idle down to 100-200rpm below spec "because people like it", and it results in low/no oil pressure. Your idle spec is 1000 +/-50.
Rich Lokyer- I always read your answers, your like the motorcycle forum guru always having complete (with specifications & steps) answers that address peoples issues headon. You are one of the Forum good guys and you are appreciated !
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Old 12-01-2008   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubba68CS View Post
My bike had the foot pegs switched around when I bought it so that instead of wearing down the metal when I touched down...it would wear down the rubber pad...
Funny you should mention that.

The floorboards for the 1600 and V2K are identical left/right.
There is an aluminum wear block that is supposed to be installed to the bottom REAR of the floorboard (it may be factory installed, and the tech just installs the floorboard).

So far, out of all of the Vulcans I've looked at, it seems to be about 50/50 whether the blocks are in the right place
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Old 12-01-2008   #19 (permalink)
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Hey Rich, any good source for the manual for a 900 custom? I have the 7500 coming real soon.
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Old 12-01-2008   #20 (permalink)
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I guess I'm lucky enough to have a decent dealer in GJ. My 600 mile service included the removal of a mouse nest from my air cleaner along with the rest of the checklist. I guess the mouse moved out shortly after his first bike ride!
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