tips Needed for PCIII / Tornado install

[trikebubble]

I am going to be installing my PCIII and Thunder Tornado airkit this weekend. I have already downloaded the program and a few maps into my laptop, but am wondering if anyone out there has any helpful tips or suggestions regarding the install.
I notice their is a "wire tap" connector in the kit. Has anyone used these, or have you all soldered instead, if possible?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Carlo

[Phatboy]

The crossover tube needs to be cut down the center so it can be folded into itself. Then it'll come out of there. That's the only hard part of the install.

Dunno about the wire tap. You mean the plug on the PCIII?

[trikebubble]

Go to the instructions here:
http://www.powercommander.com/maps/install/I215-411.pdf

on page 3, step 11 (fig.F) they show a wire tap to a stock wire on the bike.
I was wondering if anyone decided to solder this instead?

[1400pilot]

Carlo, soldering is the only way to go, using the taps can lead to bad connections, caused by looseness, corrosion, vibration, and when the bad connection happens there you sit!!!!!! so I would reccommend solder.

[kingofwings]

A quote from a post back in March:
"If you are having ANY troubles, even..... no ESPECIALLY if you had a dealer install your PC, check your wiring!
I have been having intermitant low RPM hesitation since I did my mods. Thought it might be the gas I was getting. Today I removed the fuel tank to install my new coasters and found one of the PC bridge taps barely making contact. When I went to re-squeeze it it actually fell out! Cut the connector off, soldered it all up and installed the coasters.
SMOOOOOOOTH like a babies butt. Right from idle, accelerating nice and slow or hitting it hard.
Haven't been this happy since my girlfriend left!"
Solder Brother Solder!

[T-man]

Trikebubble: I used the wire tap on my 1500 classic to install the PCIII in lieu of soldering. It has not given ANY trouble since installation...just be SURE you know that you are connecting to the correct TPS wire (check your service manual). The final check will be when you hook up the PCIII, turn it on, turn your bike to the "on" position without starting it, and turning the throttle while watching the screen on your laptop...the throttle position should change as you rotate the throttle.

[Phatboy]

on page 3, step 11 (fig.F) they show a wire tap to a stock wire on the bike. I was wondering if anyone decided to solder this instead?

Didn't have to do this on mine. Curious. Plug it in and ground it and that was it =/

[tcobar]

Before you start, go to the store and get a small tube of dialectric grease. It is used to add to the Wire tap if you are not going to solder. Solder is best if you can, but if you can't then adding the dialectric grease is next best. It helps in the connection, prevents rusting, and helps to insulate. You also need to get electrical tape. I used it to tape up the extra wires for the air kit and tuck them out of the way. Also, I would start witht the thunder ait kit first, then do the PCIII. The thunder kit removes a lot of stuff and gives a bit more room for the PCIII. However, leave the installation of the intake pipe and actual air filter till the very end. You do not want to scratch or damage them during the install. Your biggest problem in the whole thing is going to be the removal of the cross over tube. Cutting it in half is not as easy as it sounds, even with a dremel tool. I used a dremel tool with the cutting wheel and just took chunks off at a time. Take your time here because it can get very frustrating. If you want, send me a PM and I can give you my phone # for when you have qustions. Good luck... Tony

[ispeed77]

The crossover tube needs to be cut down the center so it can be folded into itself. Then it'll come out of there. That's the only hard part of the install.

Dunno about the wire tap. You mean the plug on the PCIII?

i cut one side of mine off and then sent it through, but i am sure it works either way.


Carlo, sounds like everyone has you covered. i would also recommend soldering, even though i used the wire tap connector on mine. i had planned on changing it this winter, but i didn't get around to it. haven't had any problems yet, with about 6000 miles since the mod. the only other thing it to make sure you tape up the wires from the ICS units real good and seperate them. a couple of guys on here found out the hard way that this is real important.

[Sledder]

A local Utility trailer manufacturer told me .that at one point they had some serious wiring/corrosion problems from soldering wires. ..they still solder them,but insist that the soldered connection needs flushed with soda water to neutralize the acid/flux core fromthe solder,then heat shrink and dilectric grease.

They told me that if you do not complete the job properly,you are better off with the connectors.

I am certainly no expert,but it makes sense. Just food for thought.

[ispeed77]

A local Utility trailer manufacturer told me .that at one point they had some serious wiring/corrosion problems from soldering wires. ..they still solder them,but insist that the soldered connection needs flushed with soda water to neutralize the acid/flux core fromthe solder,then heat shrink and dilectric grease.

They told me that if you do not complete the job properly,you are better off with the connectors.

I am certainly no expert,but it makes sense. Just food for thought.

that's not a bad point. an even safer bet would be to cut the factory wire and twist all three together and then crimp them all in a silicone filled connector and then finish with heat shrink. the main thing with those tap connectors is the small surface area and the fact that they can come loose like someone already mentioned.

[tcobar]

Forgot to mention to also get a small tube of Loctite blue threadlocker. Blue is for meduim strength, medium fasteners. (now you see why I had to go to the store three different times.. ) I picked mine up at the local auto parts store. Looks like a glue stick. This is used on all the nuts and bolts to keep them in place and from rattling out. Also read the service manual and torque them to the correct specification. Are you also doing the reed valve block off kit? This is also good to do since you are doing there. It is alse very easy to do while you got the gas tank off and really does cleans up the engine from some of the extra hoses. I picke up mine from phatperformance for $18. I think it is well worth the money. Ordered it Friday and got it next day saturday delivery. I'll try to post pics when I get home... Tony