Can't remove exhaust valve

double stroke · 06-28-2006

On my 88 kx250, I'm having trouble removing the right hand exhaust valve. I removed the the operating valve plug and pushed the operating valve all the way in but the right hand exhaust valve won't budge. The idle gear and left hand exhaust valve came out with ease.

Any suggestions before I give up and put it back together?

KDXGarage · 06-28-2006

Are you talking about left as when you sit on the bike or left as you are looking at the cylinder?

double stroke · 06-28-2006

when sitting one the bike, it's on the left side. In the manual, it reffered to as the right hand side, however.

it's on the opposite side of the idler gear

KDXGarage · 06-29-2006

Are you familiar with the valve being lifted some, then the rod coming out, then the valve coming out?

double stroke · 06-29-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by KDXGarage

Are you familiar with the valve being lifted some, then the rod coming out, then the valve coming out?

not exactly sure what you talking about. I don't think I got to that point yet. What I'm trying to accomplish is to lift up the exhaust valve a bit so I can remove the guide. I gave up and brought the cylinder to the dealer. Hopefully it's in good hands

KDXGarage · 06-29-2006

We are talking about the same thing. Were the subvlaves all gunked up with carbon? It may have been carbon stuck. Brief periods of E-Z Off oven cleaner may have helped.

I hope you get it fixed.

double stroke · 07-02-2006

The dealer removed the guide for me. They charged $40 bucks

.

The worst part of the deal is I wanted to have the bike running for the 4th but I lossed the dowel pin for the cylinder head. Guess I'll have to wait till wed to order it

KDXGarage · 07-04-2006

Hi. Sorry to hear of your troubles, but maybe you will have it running soon. Why was it stuck?

double stroke · 07-04-2006

probably carbon, like you said. I couldn't removed the main exhaust valve either. I just left it in there

Lakeshore · 07-07-2006

The main cause of your valve being jammed is CHEAP premix oil. Make sure you use a good synthetic. I recommend any that are rated 800 2T. Motul is my favorite. Instead of a hard carbon build up, synthetics will remain runny and allow for smooth operation. The actuator is steel but the two spindle valve are aluminum and if one or both valves lock up, the Kawasaki has no safety mechanism to prevent the spindle from having the teeth damaged on it. Check the teeth on your valves before reassembly.

Remember... most 2 stroke dirtbike owners manuals recommend a re-ring every 10 to 15 hours of race use. Cleaning the valves when pulling the cylinder down is a good habit to get into.

double stroke · 07-07-2006

Thanks for the tip. I just bought this bike. Right now, I'm using Bell synthetic.

The teeth were worn on the pinions. Is the little lever coming out of the base of the engine near the water pump suppose to move with the rotation of the engine? I'm reffering to the one that stands vertical and attaches to the operating rod. I don't think mine moves at all.

KDXGarage · 07-07-2006

Normally, that spins at an upper RPM to pull the rod out to the right. Unless you are He-Man's big brother, I don't think you will get it to move by hand.

Lakeshore · 07-07-2006

KDXGarage is right... it is centrifugally activated and the motor pulls that rod with great strength. You probably won't get that to move with your hand. The zing that occurs at about 1/2 to 2/3 throttle is that arm opening the powervalves to give you that top end power. If you don't experience that, then chances are it isn't opening the valves.

Conversely, the PV's themselves should be easily opened and closed by hand when you pull and push the actuator. Note the timing marks when reassembling and visually inspect that the valves open and close fully and simultaneously.

I've replaced many of those spindle valves at about $60 a piece.

KDXGarage · 07-07-2006

Without looking at the service manual, I would not know for sure, but one some models, you can take the right side (as sitting on the bike) cover off and see if the rod moves. It would be around 2/3 RPM. That does not mean that the internal teeth are lined up properly or that the other valves are working properly, but it might be SOMEthing to check.

double stroke · 07-08-2006

ok cool, guys. Now I see why they call them PVs.

06-28-2006	#1 (permalink)
double stroke Still On The Kickstand Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 27	Can't remove exhaust valve On my 88 kx250, I'm having trouble removing the right hand exhaust valve. I removed the the operating valve plug and pushed the operating valve all the way in but the right hand exhaust valve won't budge. The idle gear and left hand exhaust valve came out with ease. Any suggestions before I give up and put it back together?

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06-28-2006	#2 (permalink)
KDXGarage Hey, lemme ride your bike BTK Expert Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: AL, USA Posts: 1,835	Are you talking about left as when you sit on the bike or left as you are looking at the cylinder?

06-28-2006	#3 (permalink)
double stroke Still On The Kickstand Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 27	when sitting one the bike, it's on the left side. In the manual, it reffered to as the right hand side, however. it's on the opposite side of the idler gear

06-29-2006	#4 (permalink)
KDXGarage Hey, lemme ride your bike BTK Expert Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: AL, USA Posts: 1,835	Are you familiar with the valve being lifted some, then the rod coming out, then the valve coming out?

06-29-2006	#6 (permalink)
KDXGarage Hey, lemme ride your bike BTK Expert Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: AL, USA Posts: 1,835	We are talking about the same thing. Were the subvlaves all gunked up with carbon? It may have been carbon stuck. Brief periods of E-Z Off oven cleaner may have helped. I hope you get it fixed.

07-02-2006	#7 (permalink)
double stroke Still On The Kickstand Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 27	The dealer removed the guide for me. They charged $40 bucks . The worst part of the deal is I wanted to have the bike running for the 4th but I lossed the dowel pin for the cylinder head. Guess I'll have to wait till wed to order it

07-04-2006	#8 (permalink)
KDXGarage Hey, lemme ride your bike BTK Expert Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: AL, USA Posts: 1,835	Hi. Sorry to hear of your troubles, but maybe you will have it running soon. Why was it stuck?

07-04-2006	#9 (permalink)
double stroke Still On The Kickstand Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 27	probably carbon, like you said. I couldn't removed the main exhaust valve either. I just left it in there

07-07-2006	#10 (permalink)
Lakeshore Cylinder Guru BTK Expert Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Dadeville, AL. Posts: 293	The main cause of your valve being jammed is CHEAP premix oil. Make sure you use a good synthetic. I recommend any that are rated 800 2T. Motul is my favorite. Instead of a hard carbon build up, synthetics will remain runny and allow for smooth operation. The actuator is steel but the two spindle valve are aluminum and if one or both valves lock up, the Kawasaki has no safety mechanism to prevent the spindle from having the teeth damaged on it. Check the teeth on your valves before reassembly. Remember... most 2 stroke dirtbike owners manuals recommend a re-ring every 10 to 15 hours of race use. Cleaning the valves when pulling the cylinder down is a good habit to get into.

07-07-2006	#11 (permalink)
double stroke Still On The Kickstand Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 27	Thanks for the tip. I just bought this bike. Right now, I'm using Bell synthetic. The teeth were worn on the pinions. Is the little lever coming out of the base of the engine near the water pump suppose to move with the rotation of the engine? I'm reffering to the one that stands vertical and attaches to the operating rod. I don't think mine moves at all.

07-07-2006	#12 (permalink)
KDXGarage Hey, lemme ride your bike BTK Expert Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: AL, USA Posts: 1,835	Normally, that spins at an upper RPM to pull the rod out to the right. Unless you are He-Man's big brother, I don't think you will get it to move by hand.

07-07-2006	#13 (permalink)
Lakeshore Cylinder Guru BTK Expert Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Dadeville, AL. Posts: 293	KDXGarage is right... it is centrifugally activated and the motor pulls that rod with great strength. You probably won't get that to move with your hand. The zing that occurs at about 1/2 to 2/3 throttle is that arm opening the powervalves to give you that top end power. If you don't experience that, then chances are it isn't opening the valves. Conversely, the PV's themselves should be easily opened and closed by hand when you pull and push the actuator. Note the timing marks when reassembling and visually inspect that the valves open and close fully and simultaneously. I've replaced many of those spindle valves at about $60 a piece.

07-07-2006	#14 (permalink)
KDXGarage Hey, lemme ride your bike BTK Expert Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: AL, USA Posts: 1,835	Without looking at the service manual, I would not know for sure, but one some models, you can take the right side (as sitting on the bike) cover off and see if the rod moves. It would be around 2/3 RPM. That does not mean that the internal teeth are lined up properly or that the other valves are working properly, but it might be SOMEthing to check.

07-08-2006	#15 (permalink)
double stroke Still On The Kickstand Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 27	ok cool, guys. Now I see why they call them PVs.

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