Spark Plug Stuck!

[SFAcoustic]

Hey guys, thanks for those of you who replied to my recent post.

I took off the tank and the front fairing. Pulled off the spark plug leads.

One of the plugs is downright STUCK and will NOT move. At all.

And it is stripping my spark plug wrench. I put some WD-40, no effect.

Also, how do you reach the number 2 and 3? There is so much obstruction.

Thanks.

This is for an 89' Ninja 600R.

[SFAcoustic]

Please, someone help me out on this.

I am literally doing this right now and freaking out.

I can't get it out, and I can't reach the two in the middle.

[danb]

I have had luck with A LITTLE heat on the plug..use a propane torch and heat the plug just hotter than you can hold it hand. Too hot and the threads on the head can come with the plug. Be sure to wrap everything in around in a wet blanket or some such.

d

[SFAcoustic]

I definitely don't have a torch or anything like that.

I'm at home. I was expecting this to be an easy-ish DIY job.

What kind of tool should I be using?

[SFAcoustic]

Also, how do you reach those two middle plugs?

The space is impossibly tight.

[zedx11]

usually the #2,3 are the easiest to get at. don't know what could be in the way on that bike. airbox?

what tool are you useing to take the plugs out that is striping? get a good socket and ratchet.

[SFAcoustic]

The outer ones are equally easy to get at. No problem at all.

The inner ones are DAMN hard. I still haven't been able to do it.

Coolant hoses block them. Also an air intake hose blocking as well.

I did the dumbest thing of all time. In my frustration, I pulled a coolant hose. Coolant spills out, and I replug it, not before a good 500cc of coolant got EVERYWHERE including the wells. Damn I'm good.

Please, someone tell me what tool I need. How on earth do you perform the spark plug change? How do you get those hard to reach plugs?

[SFAcoustic]

Oh, and the spark plug wrench I'm using, is the one from the little black Kawasaki bag that comes with the bike. I hook that up to a socket wrench.

[zedx11]

some bikes like the EX500, to remove the valve cover you have to drain the coolant and remove the hoses. you can fight and fight but usually have to do the extra stuff to make it easier.

[zedx11]

Originally Posted by SFAcoustic

Oh, and the spark plug wrench I'm using, is the one from the little black Kawasaki bag that comes with the bike. I hook that up to a socket wrench.

do you have any other tools? find some, take your's to sears and get the same size socket, extension and ratchet.

[SFAcoustic]

So you really think I need another tool huh?

I guess I'll drain the coolant and take the lines off. That is a huge pain, but I guess it is a good thing to drain the coolant anyway.

[zedx11]

you may be able to reach it with the tools I mentioned plus a swivel.

I haven't worked on your specific bike but from your description you need to drain it.

[itjstagame]

Wow sure sounds like a hassel. I can't believe you have your Kawi tool bag still, that's cool. I'm not sure what came in it, I didn't have one.

I just used a regular 3/8" socket hooked to a 12" or 18" extension with an appropriate socket on the end. I think a spark plug socket didn't work for me, or at least I didn't have a spark plug socket in the size I need (17mm?).

My spark plugs were pretty loose feeling, the PO or whoever had used antiseize on the threads (thank goodness). But I know what you're going through, my Audi was the same way, plugs into aluminum without antiseize is never fun. I had one on my Audi I really thought was going to rip the threads, all my friend said I had to take the head off and back it out from the inside :/. Penetrant wouldn't get in there (btw I've always found PB Blaster or Deep Creep to work better as a straight penetrant and not just a lube). I think I just got a bigger wrench or pipe to put over my wrench (for more torque) and prayed that I'd be able to 'feel' if I was destroying stuff. Another thing to try that I use on stuck bolts. Try to tighten it just a tad and then back off. Sometimes bolts and threaded things will screw in farther easier than coming out. If you get it to move at all, even in the wrong direction, it usually will loosen up enough to start coming out. If you get to this stage unscrew a couple turns then turn in one, repeat. Defiantely if it starts to get tight while it's coming out, screw in a bit and try again, usually I can work it loose this way. Another thing, before screwing back in, spray some penetrant on the few threads you did get exposed, they'll carry the penetrant back down in when you screw it down.

Basically... I ran with 4 new plugs and 1 old one on my Audi for quite a while, because it was stuck and I didn't want to destroy my head. Don't over do it and stop if it worries you.

As for heat and a torch, you could try riding it or waiting for it to warm up and then pulling the tank and the plugs when you get back. Granted everything will be hot and the head will have expanded too, but the steel plug threads and aluminum head should expand at a different rate... may help loosen something up anyway.

As for the 2 in the middle. I didn't have any radiator lines, my radiator lines are in the front and side of the engine, to the radiator and stuff, where do your coolant lines run? All I had was a giant crankcase breather hooked to some kind of vaccuum bung and lots and lots of wires. The wires were in little harness that 'clipped' over the frame, I just unclipped these and pushed them as much as I could out of the way. I got a slightly longer extension (like 6" longer) and reach down in with the wrench above the frame. It was a little tight, I think the extension was tilted a bit, but like I said I didn't have to apply much force to move mine, my only worry with this setup was going back in, to prevent cross threading I started them by hand (with the exntetion) with the extention shorter and underneathe the frame (directly underneath) so that the plug would be straight. It's not the best setup I know, but the frame is directly over the plugs and there's only like 2-3" clearance.

I hope some of that is a help and I hope you realize I may not do stuff the 'right' way, always stop and get a second opinion if you think you're breaking something. How much would a shop charge to change plugs?

[olbooker]

I've always found that warming the engine and some good penetrant works wonders. I always use a Mopar penetrant (foaming greyish colored stuff) but Ford and GM also sell the same thing. WD40 never seems to work well for me.

And a good socket is a must.

[TwinturboSL]

Mine were super easy to do. I just used a deep socket 18mm a 3/8 swivel joint and a 5" extension. Just drop the 18mm down the hole with the swivel attached then connect it to the extension and then the rachet. Super easy, didn't have to move a single line.

[Dragonmaster]

WD40 isn't a penetrating oil it's a water displacement oil. Try a proper spark plug socket, they tools in the stock bag are useless for anything but absolute emergency repairs. They're to soft and strip things.

[SlowNinja]

I had to use a U-joint section for my '97 600R. Otherwise you'll never get past the coil-packs, which are right above the middle cylinders. And you'll need a proper spark plug socket. I took a look at the one that came with the bike and quickly pitched it in the trash......