workin on my zx7

[1993zx7ninja]

I did a full rebuild on my carbs this weekend. New bowl seals, air fuel screw o-rings, 180 main jets, titanium needles, float needles, and new brass seats.

float levels set to 17mm.
air fuel screws set to 2.3 turns.
third setting on the main needles and two shims.

Took me three runs to get it perfect. Had to take the carbs out each time and adjust. Its a pain but worth getting it dialed in right.

The bike idles perfect now and pulls all the way to redline. No flat spots or hesitation.

I can tell carb 1 needs a new emulsion tube but im in no hurry to replace them when it is running so good. I can see a small droplet of fuel forming at the seat at idle.

I also replaced both side fairings with some clean oem's and repainted the whole bike with ninja green enamal and I lowered the bike one inch in the front.

She is just about ready for summer.

[PBsZ]

nice...it got back to snowing up here so bikes been back in the garage last time i rode it i started to notice a little bogging when starting out, it still ran good and it only did it a little bit hopefully not a big deal. sounds like your all ready to go, so did you go withthe dynojet kit ? how did you go about tuning your bike to where you wanted it ? is it mainly that screw you have to drill to get to ? i have thought about trying the smaller jets to see what happened i only get about 80 miles to a tank before i gotta go to my reserve i was getting 110 (still not great). whats the climate like where your at ?

[1993zx7ninja]

I went with the factorypro titanium kit and a lower carb rebuild kit I found off ebay. No missing parts.

When I first started off on tuning all I wanted at first was to get the main jets right. From 6 or 7k to redline. 180s worked for me.

I then set the midrange. It was pretty close at the third needle setting. Two shims and it was right on.

Then I had to backoff on the air fuel mixture screw to get the low end where I wanted it. I had my air fuel screws at 2.7 turns and it was too much. I was getting boggy idle to 3k. I turned them back about half a turn each to 2.3 turns and it was perfect. This is also a float level setting also, but I countered it with the air fuel adjustment.

Ya to get to your air fuel screws you will have to remove the plug over them. You can find a host of sites about the best way to remove the plug. Most ppl just drill it off.

The screw has a spring under it. Then a washer. Then an oring under it. I removed mine. Cleaned them and the seats and replaced the orings. The air fuel screw adjust how much fuel comes out of those small holes right under the butterfly opening. The first one is idle. The rest are idle to midrange.

One other note: Make sure your float bowls are sealed really well. Just because they arnt leaking fuel doesnt mean they arnt sucking air. Since ninjas carbs sit at an angle this happens alot and tuning becomes a nightmare. With them not sealed the carb bowls arnt equalizing pressure with the air box they are at atmosphere and all your settings are off.

[PBsZ]

cool man ill keep that in mind...but...i got a factory pro kit also they say you dont need to remove that plug ??? i was just trying to adjust my idle while i was sitting at lights to try to smooth it out i think it helped a little but then i was where i needed to be and shut the bike down. i cant wait til it gets nicer out up here so i can take it to get dyno'd and see where i can make some changes...really wish my speedo was hooked up right when i took it out the first time so i could see how fast i got it up too haha. did you do the airbox mod ? also did you put on an ignition advancer yet ?

[1993zx7ninja]

I think the air fuel mixture screw is an important part of carb tuning.

My speedo cable broke a few weeks back and I had to replace the cable. It was less than $20 tho.

I did an airbox mod when I first got this bike. I filled most of the airbox holes with epoxy and capped off the rear one with a vacuum plug.

I have a factory pro +4 ignition advancer but I have not installed it yet. I wanted to get the carbs tuned right before I made the change.

Did you notice your bike running any hotter when you advanced the timing? Might be hard to tell when its really cold out.

Most people tell me you will notice alot more throttle response out of the corners. This is what I am after rather than more top end.

[PBsZ]

actually yes it does run hotter worked great as a hand warmer while i was riding haha...i was wondering about that though i thought i forgot to put coolant in haha but i did. i did everything all at once so i cant be 100% on what made the big difference but throttle response is nice...very nice haha when i was out i wasnt killin it in corners because of the temperature also the new found torque my bike has i didnt want to spin out in a turn but as soon as i got a little more upright there were NO ISSUES with throttle response even at higher speeds, it used to be that i would kinda hit that plateau and couldnt get anymore out of the bike but now it just seems to keep going and going til my good common sense kicks in and i let off the throttle.
and this is just a thought...shouldnt you tune the bike with the advancer on since thats how your going to be riding it ?