2006 Vulcan Nomad Clutch Noise

[otgt]

OK, Took us about 2 hours but got the engine loose and the left side cover off. You were exactly right where the problem was. The bevel gear bearing was 100% shot. There as metal around the area and the whole mecanism was loose due to the bearing being bad. It cost me about $126 in parts. Im replacing a few other things not mentioned but I dont want to risk there being any more issues. Here are some photos.










I'll let you know how everything works in the end. Thanks again

[RichLockyer]

Excellent.

That afternoon and $126 saved a major expense 200 miles from home!

[otgt]

Originally Posted by RichLockyer

Excellent.

That afternoon and $126 saved a major expense 200 miles from home!

One quick question, what is the best way to flush out the metal shavings out of the engine. Someone told me to put cheap oil in it and run up and down the road a couple of times and drain it out. And to do it a couple of times. Is that ok?

[RichLockyer]

Before closing it back up, I'd pull the oil screen and flush it with a very light oil under pressure if you can (without circulating it).
Between that, the oil screen, and the oil filter, you aren't going to get anything into the engine that you don't want in there.

Is that aluminum or steel? (magnetic?)

After that, ya... I'd get some cheap 10w40 MC oil and run it for 20 miles or so, then change the oil and filter again, and clean the screen one more time, then go to whatever oil you prefer, but I would continue to check/clean the screen for the next 2-3 oil changes.

The screen is going to catch anything large enough to damage the oil pump. The filter should catch anything large enough to damage the engine unless it gets so loaded that it goes into bypass.
Especially now that it's cooling off, I'd definitely stick with 10w40 to help prevent that.

[otgt]

Originally Posted by RichLockyer

Before closing it back up, I'd pull the oil screen and flush it with a very light oil under pressure if you can (without circulating it).
Between that, the oil screen, and the oil filter, you aren't going to get anything into the engine that you don't want in there.

Is that aluminum or steel? (magnetic?)

After that, ya... I'd get some cheap 10w40 MC oil and run it for 20 miles or so, then change the oil and filter again, and clean the screen one more time, then go to whatever oil you prefer, but I would continue to check/clean the screen for the next 2-3 oil changes.

The screen is going to catch anything large enough to damage the oil pump. The filter should catch anything large enough to damage the engine unless it gets so loaded that it goes into bypass.
Especially now that it's cooling off, I'd definitely stick with 10w40 to help prevent that.

Its definately steel. It sticks to the magnet. Luckily, the housing is ok. I dont think it would be long before the bearing would have siezed and cause more damage. I will find the oil screen filter and clean it too when i get ready to put everything back together.

[otgt]

Originally Posted by RichLockyer

Before closing it back up, I'd pull the oil screen and flush it with a very light oil under pressure if you can (without circulating it).
Between that, the oil screen, and the oil filter, you aren't going to get anything into the engine that you don't want in there.

Is that aluminum or steel? (magnetic?)

After that, ya... I'd get some cheap 10w40 MC oil and run it for 20 miles or so, then change the oil and filter again, and clean the screen one more time, then go to whatever oil you prefer, but I would continue to check/clean the screen for the next 2-3 oil changes.

The screen is going to catch anything large enough to damage the oil pump. The filter should catch anything large enough to damage the engine unless it gets so loaded that it goes into bypass.
Especially now that it's cooling off, I'd definitely stick with 10w40 to help prevent that.

Got everything back together and all is good. I did pull the oil screen filter and there was lots of metal shavings in the screen, Thanks for your help.