Kawasaki Paint

[bernsax]

I found an individual who is selling a trunk that will attach to my 2004 Nomad.
However, it is the wrong color. I was informed by a local Kawasaki dealer that Kawasaki does not sell paint and I should go through Colorrite.com.

I went to that site and the cost is $82.00 per cup. WOW!!!!! Since I need both blue and silver that amounts to $164 just in paint cost for that trunk!!!!!!

I thought I would go through an auto parts dealer to purchase it cheaper but the color code colorrite.com provides doesn't match up with their charts.

Does anyone know where to find the color code? It is not listed in my manual, at least I can't find it.

I'm temped just to buy the trunk and have an auto body shop attemp to match it as close as they can.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

I would appreciate any insight.

Thanks

[RichLockyer]

Take off one of your saddlebags and take it to a local auto paint supplier. They will be able to match it for 1/4 the cost of ColorRong.

Don't even TRY to use ColorRong on the Kawi candy reds. A couple of forum members have used their blue from rattle cans and it's worked out fine.... but their clearcoat is not that good.

What I'd suggest for someone not able to spray their own (for colors other than candy reds), use the ColorRite rattle cans for the color coats, then take it to an auto paint shop and ask them to shoot the clear after the color cures for a couple of weeks. That'll give you something heavy enough to buff out the orange peel.

ColorRite is acrylic enamel.

[Guitar7272]

Take off one of your saddlebags and take it to a local auto paint supplier. They will be able to match it for 1/4 the cost of ColorRong.

Don't even TRY to use ColorRong on the Kawi candy reds. A couple of forum members have used their blue from rattle cans and it's worked out fine.... but their clearcoat is not that good.

What I'd suggest for someone not able to spray their own (for colors other than candy reds), use the ColorRite rattle cans for the color coats, then take it to an auto paint shop and ask them to shoot the clear after the color cures for a couple of weeks. That'll give you something heavy enough to buff out the orange peel.

ColorRite is acrylic enamel.

I agree - just take it to an autobody place and ask for a quote. Colorrite is good for a touch up here and there but for a large project with that I'd just see what a local professional could do for me.

[rival-dealer]

Take off one of your saddlebags and take it to a local auto paint supplier. They will be able to match it for 1/4 the cost of ColorRong.

Don't even TRY to use ColorRong on the Kawi candy reds. A couple of forum members have used their blue from rattle cans and it's worked out fine.... but their clearcoat is not that good.

What I'd suggest for someone not able to spray their own (for colors other than candy reds), use the ColorRite rattle cans for the color coats, then take it to an auto paint shop and ask them to shoot the clear after the color cures for a couple of weeks. That'll give you something heavy enough to buff out the orange peel.

ColorRite is acrylic enamel.

would be a bad idea to leave it for a couple of weeks before clear coating ,,too much time for contaminates to build up on the paint ,,get it clearcoated asap ,,,im pretty sure most body shops would be able to match the colour for you

[BrianT]

Go to the PPG website and check. They have the best paint out there.

[RichLockyer]

would be a bad idea to leave it for a couple of weeks before clear coating ,,too much time for contaminates to build up on the paint ,,get it clearcoated asap ,,,im pretty sure most body shops would be able to match the colour for you

I'm referring to when painting the base colors at home with a rattle can.
Not being a true 2-part cure, they need time to offgas or they will cause wrinkling and discoloration of the topcoat.

No, don't put it back on the bike and ride with it... keep it covered and protected (but not with something resting on it).

[Jambolaya]

My auto body shop did a nice job of mimicing the factory blue of the V2K. Two hard bags were $150 done right.

[RichLockyer]

My auto body shop did a nice job of mimicing the factory blue of the V2K. Two hard bags were $150 done right.

That's a good price.

Earl Schieb charged me $100 for a black job that looks like the surface of the moon.

[airforce1]

Yep, the fisheyes are free!
Rattlecan is ok, but a lot of guys aren't skillful with them.
I use my Devilbiss, clean booth, meticulous prep, tack rag, test the mix for temp, assure dry air, dress for the occasion, shoot a test piece, then lay on the color.
Earl is right in the middle of Orange Season just now

Look around, find a bike with a pu$$ paint job on the bags and/or tank and ask, "hey, who did that for ya?"
Word of mouth and experience whips opinions, thanks for sharing your experience.
"time wounds all heels".

[rival-dealer]

I'm referring to when painting the base colors at home with a rattle can.
Not being a true 2-part cure, they need time to offgas or they will cause wrinkling and discoloration of the topcoat.

No, don't put it back on the bike and ride with it... keep it covered and protected (but not with something resting on it).

single pack solvent paints cure in a couple of hours
wrinkling will only happen if paints aint compatable and react with each other

[RichLockyer]

single pack solvent paints cure in a couple of hours
wrinkling will only happen if paints aint compatable and react with each other

Not entirely true.

I've had subsequent coats of the same rattle can paint wrinkle over previous coats. That's why the can says "recoat within 2 hours or after 48"... it's the "after 48" where I've had problems.

Doing a guitar body, I had no problems with color coats, and the first clear coat went on beautifully (same brand rattle can). The 2nd clear coat crazed like it was wrinkle-finish paint. It didn't harm the color coats, and I ended up carefully wetsanding and buffing the clear off and just rubbed out the color coat.
The same brand clear on the bare maple neck... 2 coats didn't craze, but it also never fully cured. Ended up stripping it (which was a PITA because it just balled up in the paper like rubber cement) and using a thinned brushed on acrylic.

[rival-dealer]

Not entirely true.

I've had subsequent coats of the same rattle can paint wrinkle over previous coats. That's why the can says "recoat within 2 hours or after 48"... it's the "after 48" where I've had problems.

Doing a guitar body, I had no problems with color coats, and the first clear coat went on beautifully (same brand rattle can). The 2nd clear coat crazed like it was wrinkle-finish paint. It didn't harm the color coats, and I ended up carefully wetsanding and buffing the clear off and just rubbed out the color coat.
The same brand clear on the bare maple neck... 2 coats didn't craze, but it also never fully cured. Ended up stripping it (which was a PITA because it just balled up in the paper like rubber cement) and using a thinned brushed on acrylic.

the problem your having is because of the thinner content in the clearcoat
it causes the dryed clear to react
as for it not drying at all on the other piece there must have been some other clear underneath which was a 2k or something
im a pro painter so if ya have any questions just ask

[RichLockyer]

the problem your having is because of the thinner content in the clearcoat it causes the dryed clear to react

How to prevent it? Apply the subsequent coats sooner or later?

[Jambolaya]

What kind of paint do you use if you want to do pin stripes or other shapes on top of the clearcoat?

[RichLockyer]

Brush-on pinstriping paint is an enamel and works just fine.

The problem with rattle can paints is the solvents and propellants.

[rival-dealer]

How to prevent it? Apply the subsequent coats sooner or later?

if your doing it wit rattle cans do it soon as possibe
give it 5 mins to flash over
or do it wet on wet