charging problems ( think!) - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 02:16 AM Thread Starter
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charging problems ( think!)

hey all.
i,ve got a 2000 vulcan 1500fi classic i bought 4 weeks ago. they guy said it had a new battery put in last year. it has died twice since i bought it (wouldnt start).
battery takes a charge, but if you pull a cable while running, the motor dies.
i,ve done a voltage test, and its 12.5 with nothing on, drops to below 12 volts when the key is turned on, but with the motor running i,m getting 13.8 volts at the battery. voltage stay pretty steady while revving the motor.
i know the bike needs a 18 amp hour battery to run right but i,m not sure what is in it now. i,m hoping its just the battery.
any insight would be greatly appreciated!

thanks for your time, have fun and ride safe
Dave
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 02:52 AM Thread Starter
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Re: charging problems ( think!)

this for the message from sticky... bike just turned 8000 miles and i rode it home tuesday nite, lites did not dim but would not start wed morning. i have a 20 amp hour battery on order.
thanks
Dave
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 09:55 AM
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Re: charging problems ( think!)

Quote:
Originally Posted by dcolombo View Post
if you pull a cable while running, the motor dies.


Could you provide more detail?
Any after-market add ons, pipes, fuel processor,etc?
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 10:49 AM
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Re: charging problems ( think!)

What does the meter read when cranking before the engine starts?

If the engine fails to start in 5 seconds but the head lamp comes on, what is the reading then?

The charging volts is low but acceptable at 13.8 dcv.

Does this bike have passing lamps that come on with the key, or come on with the head lamp?

Was this new battery setting about not on a maintianer charger a long time?

Is this battery the AGM sealed type, or is it a wet acid type?

I am not sure where sfair is going, but he is pretty good just the same.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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Re: charging problems ( think!)

my bike has vance and hines pipes and a dyno-jet pwer commander. the bike has been re-mapped for the pipes.
i charged the battery (out of bike) and while charging cleaned all the cables including in and out of the solenoid. put the battery back in the bike and it started once, the second time it didnt. with the key on voltage keeps dropping.
i was told this battery is only a year old. it is a sealed 14 amp hour battery and i know now i need a 18 amp hour battery because of the injectors.
i have a 18 amp hour battery on order.
thanks again for your time
Dave
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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Re: charging problems ( think!)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

my bike has vance and hines pipes and a dyno-jet pwer commander. the bike has been re-mapped for the pipes.
i charged the battery (out of bike) and while charging cleaned all the cables including in and out of the solenoid. put the battery back in the bike and it started once, the second time it didnt. with the key on voltage keeps dropping.
i was told this battery is only a year old. it is a sealed 14 amp hour battery and i know now i need a 18 amp hour battery because of the injectors.
i have a 18 amp hour battery on order.
thanks again for your time
Dave
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 01:57 PM
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Re: charging problems ( think!)

Post back with how the new battery works out.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 08:18 PM
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Re: charging problems ( think!)

yeah well it is a wrong battery over all, but still it can be tested. I think in a way you have tested it, but i am not sure it is or isn't a good battery yet..

it looks like a failed battery no matter what sort of. You can charge a bad battery all you want, and it won't make it any good.

The readings right off a charger are fake.. A light load will settle it, and a hard load a good battery will recover from all by itself.

If I wanted to, I could go turn on manual passing lamps 55 watts each, apx 9.6 amps and leave them on till they go out... Apx 2 hours..

Then turn them off and wait a while, maybe 48 hours and that battery would be back at 12.4 dcv or so.

The test I like best is cranking, because that is taking apx 365 amps in the few seconds the starter runs. I like to disable the plugs so the engine can't start. And I can time the load for 10 seconds. What ever the meter says then tells me about all I need to know.

If the battery is much lower than 10.5 maybe 9.5 I can live with that battery. Anything less and that battery is a boat anchor.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 11:41 PM
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Re: charging problems ( think!)

Kawi battery test procedure:

Use a voltmeter to check the battery voltage. If the voltage is less than 12.8V and more than 11.5V:

Terminal Voltage: 11.5 ∼ less than 12.8 V
Standard Charge 1.2 A 5 ∼ 10 h
Quick Charge 5 A 1 h
CAUTION
If possible, do not quick charge. If quick charge is
done unavoidably, do standard charge later on.
Terminal Voltage: less than 11.5 V
Charging Method 1.2 A 20 h
NOTE
○Increase the charging voltage to a maximum voltage of
25 V if the battery will not accept current initially. Charge
for no more than 5 minutes at the increased voltage then
check if the battery is drawing current. If the battery
will accept current decrease the voltage and charge by
the standard charging method described on the battery
case. If the battery will not accept current after 5 minutes,
replace the battery.

•Determine the battery condition after refresh charge.
○Determine the condition of the battery left for 30 minutes
after completion of the charge by measuring the terminal
voltage according to the table below.
Criteria Judgment:
12.8 V or higher Good
12.0 ∼ lower than 12.8 V Charge insufficient → Recharge
lower than 12.0 V Unserviceable → Replace

(Presumably, if the battery charge consistently is less than 12.8V after a freshly-charged battery has sat for 30 minutes and been repeatedly recharged the battery is bad and should be replaced. Of course the best test is one for capacity if a tester is available.)

○To ensure maximum battery life,
it is recommended the battery be load tested at
three times its amp-hour rating for 15 seconds.
Re-check voltage and if less than 12.8 V repeat the
charging cycle and load test. If still below 12.8 V the
battery is defective.

Jim
'07 Vulcan 900 Classic LT

Jesus is Lord
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-23-2010, 01:17 AM Thread Starter
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Re: charging problems ( think!)

thanks for all the comments.
i started thinking, and the reason the bike died when i disconnected the battery, wasnt the charging system, but it killed power to the power commander (ie: throttle bodies).
this is the first fuel injected bike i,ve owned and i,m still thinking old school.
hopefully i got worried for nothing. new battery should be here monday. i,ll post what happens then.
thanks again for all the help.
Dave
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