KZ1000 Police Blown Fuse

[humbug01]

Hi all, newbie here. I bought a 2001 KZ1000-P20 Police bike a few months ago and have ridden only a few hundred miles on it. (I was delayed by leaks in the first gas tank.) It's a LOT different ride than my old 1600 Road Star!

I would welcome advice on (at least!) two questions below after a little background.

After reading helpful threads here, I did use electrical connection cleaner from Radio Shack on all the connections I could find. I tried to look for obvious problem connections. The only one I found is one wire for back turn signal seemed bad so I replaced it with auto spade connectors. I don't think I did a very good job and may need better connectors (?). This may be the problem for first question.

Yesterday, when I got to work I noticed my headlamp was out and the fuse for it was blown. I replaced 10A fuse and rode home and it didn't blow again. I have the wiring diagram on it and Chilton manual for the bike but not much experience with auto/mc eletrical stuff. How would I go about finding a short assuming this is the problem? Just take off gas tank and poke around?

Secondly, the old police pursuit lights on front are disconnected (with cheap clear bulbs in their place). I would like to swap out the headlight with Truck-Light 7" led lamp. It looks like their 3 pin connector will work "plug and play." Next I want to get some led passing lamps in the front cowling where those pursuit lights are. I realize there's going to be a modulator for the old lights somewhere (?). Can I just take this out??

Maybe too many questions but a hint from you experts will be much appreciated!

Steve

USN '73-77

[MFolks]

The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!


Here is the most basic method I know(Taken from www.kzrider.com by member Patton)

1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.

2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one. Just 1, not both!

3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.

4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.

5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go off/stop buzzing.

6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).

7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.

8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.

9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).

10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.

11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.

12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.



Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by using a multimeter to check for voltage going through the fuse, or when the fuse is removed for physical inspection for tight end caps & continuity checks,can it be determined if it’s serviceable.

5. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

6. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

7. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.

8. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:

www.waytekwire.com http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...20%208%20FUSE/

www.rallylights.com http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=765

http://www.delcity.net/store/6!way-f...ks/p_10822.a_1

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El...seholders.html

http://www.autowiringsolutions.com/i...category_id=89 (ATO/ATC Fuse Holder)

9. A source for the glass tubed AGX fuses:
http://www.boatownerswarehouse.com/b...fm/2,4986.html

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Re...&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0

[MFolks]

http://www.cyclepsycho.com/kz1000p/kz1000p.html (wiring diagrams)

[humbug01]

Thanks Mike! This certainly gives me a place to start. I did use the De-Oxit stuff after reading one of your earlier posts on this and found AGX 10A fuses on ebay though the other links appreciated.

Steve

[MFolks]

If it were me, I'd be removing the extra wiring, but make sure of what you're taking out is not critical to the bikes operations.

Color Codes On Most Kawasaki’s (written for 1980’s bikes)

HEADLIGHT
RED with BLACK stripe, High Beam.
RED with YELLOW stripe, Low Beam.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

BRAKE/TAIL LIGHT Can be an # 1157 dual filament bulb
RED, Running or Tail Light.
BLUE,(sometimes with a Red stripe) Brake Light Circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

LEFT FRONT TURN SIGNAL Can be an #1157 dual filament bulb
GREEN, Left front turn signal circuit.
BLUE, Left front running light circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

RIGHT FRONT TURN SIGNAL Can be an # 1157 dual filament bulb
GREY, Right front turn signal circuit.
BLUE, Right front running light circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

LEFT REAR TURN SIGNAL Can be an #1156 single filament bulb
GREEN, Left rear turn signal circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

RIGHT REAR TURN SIGNAL Can be an #1156 single filament bulb
GREY, Right rear turn signal circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

[MFolks]

I created this procedure in case you need to troubleshoot, and replace the alternator stator(the wire windings for the charging system):

Alternator Testing For the Older 4’s(Z1’s,Kz 900’s, Kz1000’s,Kz1100’s ,GPz1100’s
And possibly the 750’s).

To check to see if the alternator is working you need to follow these simple steps:

1. Fully charge the battery as this will be the power source during this test.

2. Disconnect the Regulator/Rectifier at the plug that has the six wires in it.

3. Start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature.

4. If you're worried about overheating, position a large fan for cooling the engine.

5. After the engine has reached operating temperature, have a helper assist you, and using a multi-meter, read the output at the three yellow wires (or the alternator output wires)at the disconnected connector.

6. Raise the engine speed to 4000 rpm, and see what the three YELLOW wire combinations(or any alternator output wires) are(1-3, 2-3 & 1-2). The output will be around 50 Volts A.C.(Alternating Current). BE CAREFUL, AS THERE IS A SHOCK HAZARD HERE!!

7. If any of the combinations are low or non-existent, the stator(wire windings) are bad and must be replaced.
Some of the older Z1’s and KZ900’s were reported to be phase sensitive, so check the wire colors carefully.

8. Using an OHMETER, Check the three wire combinations again, looking for a reading of 0.36 - 0.54 OHMS. If the readings are above or below, the stator may be bad and need replacement. Also check from any of the three YELLOW wires to ground, this will show if arcing took place. Check only with the engine off !!

9. Before ordering a new stator, check the connections from the stator as there are electrical "Bullet" connectors that may be damaged or dirty.
Inspect the wiring for signs of shorting or overheating too. Z1 Enterprises, Inc. - Quality New Parts for Vintage Japanese Street Motorcycles sells replacement rubber grommets for the alternator output wiring, they get hard and could leak oil after a while.

10. Check the wiring coming out of the grommet as there have been situations where the wires were damaged causing a short(I.E. twisted together with insulation damage).

11. The sprocket cover will have to be removed to access the electrical connectors coming from the alternator, the left foot peg assembly and shifting lever will have to come off also.



Alternator Stator Replacement On the Older 4’s
Source for replacement Stators

A. ElectroSport - Motorcycle, Dirt Bike and ATV - OEM Quality Stators, Regulator/rectifiers and CDIs resources/diagnosis-center/fault-finding-guide
B. CUSTOMREWIND.COM
C. http://www.rmstator.com/index
D. www.regulatorrectifier.com
E. Oregon motorcycle Parts Home Page (Rectifier/ Regulators Only)

1. If by testing either by checking the output voltage from the stator or by using and ohmmeter for resistance and the stator is determined to be bad, replacing the stator is not a difficult job.

2. The motorcycle owner should have on hand a replacement alternator gasket as it will tear on removal and leak if reused.

3. Put the bike on the center stand if possible and lean it to the right to minimize the oil volume that could come out when the alternator cover is removed.

4. Have selection of Metric wrenches and sockets along with Metric Allen keys to be able to accomplish this repair. ¼" and 3/8" ratchets and extensions may be needed along with Allen bits.

5. Remove the gear shift lever, the sprocket cover and possibly the left foot peg assembly.

6. A catch pan for what little oil will be lost should be positioned under the alternator on the left side. Newspapers will soak up any oil lost or some kitty litter will do as an absorbent.

7. Remove the alternator cover fasteners, some bikes use a socket head cap screw(Allen type) and others use the Phillips head type, the #3 screwdriver bit fits best for those. Use a small dish or can to collect the removed fasteners from the parts to prevent loss/damage.

8. The alternator stator is secured to the inside of the cover usually with three Allen headed bolts, Some bikes may have Torx style fasteners, Remove them and disconnect the three yellow wires that have bullet connectors on them from the bundled wires inside the sprocket cover.

9. If your bike has some color other than yellow for the alternator output wires, make note of what goes where as the older Kawasaki’s were phase sensitive in regard to the regulator/rectifiers.

10. When installing the replacement stator, clock or position the output wires and grommet so they fit into the small port under the alternator cover without being pinched or damaged.

11. Tighten the three Allen or Torx fasteners, securing the replacement stator to the cover. I like using the BLUE Loctite # 242 for hardware that can be removed with hand tools.

12. Remove the old gasket from the mating surfaces of the alternator cover and engine case by scraping with a piece of sharpened plastic like Lexan or Plexi-glass as these will not gouge the soft Aluminum Cases. Avoid using a metal gasket scraper for this.

13. Position the alternator cover, checking for pinched wiring and install the fasteners with a little silver anti-seize on the threads, tightening to the correct torque.

14. Connect up the output wires to the mating female bullet connectors and while you’re in there, check the routing of the wire bundle that runs through there.

15. Inspect for signs of heat damage to the wire insulation and vibration damage too.

16. The side stand switch, neutral switch, and oil pressure switch wiring are all bundled with the alternator output wiring running above and behind the engine output sprocket. This bundle runs in a channel as it goes up toward the various electrical connections.

17. The regulator/rectifier plug on the 80’s bikes usually has six wires in it:

A. One (1)WHITE with RED stripe, this is the bikes main power wire usually 12 gauge in size.

B. One(1) smaller Brown wire, probably 18 gauge or so, the voltage sense wire for the regulator/rectifier, helps keeping it from overcharging the battery.

C. One(1) BLACK with YELLOW stripe wire, part of the ground circuits, maybe 16 gauge in size.

D. Three(3) YELLOW wires, maybe 14 gauge in size, the alternator output wires going to the regulator/rectifier which converts the Alternating Current(A.C.) to Direct Current(D.C.) using rectification, producing the power to run the motorcycle and charge the battery.

18. Reinstall the sprocket cover, again checking for pinched wires before tightening. Install the shifter on it’s splined shaft checking for proper location, and the left side foot peg assembly.

19. Except for the minor oil spill and reluctant fasteners, it’s not a very difficult job to do.

[humbug01]

I think you're right about pulling out the disconnected wires. I'll start there and start checking other things like alternator/stator later. I'm very slow!

Steve

[MFolks]

Slow is better on these old bikes, it give you time to consider wether or not to disable a circuit you may need in the future. There's a "Wizard" at KZrider.com named "Loudhvx", find him, or ask the forum there about a simplified wiring diagram for your old police bike. It might even be in what they call the "Filebase". Look in the far upper right corner of the home page, and click on it.You'll need to join the forum to be able to ask questions and post information.

Another helpful website is wiredgeorge motorcycle carburetors - Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Carburetor Sales, Rebuilding and Restoration - Home , he has a similar forum, answering bike questions. I'm there sometimes too.

[MFolks]

I just noticed your location, my wife and I moved here from San Diego(El Cajon actually) about 9 years ago, so I'm familiar with Palomar mountain, Dudleys bakery in San Ysabel, Julian,Otay lakes road, Pt Loma, and sunrise highway for motorcycle riding places(to name a few).

[martin-csr]

.

[humbug01]

Martin, You're right on the accessories. I removed the siren harness yesterday no problem identifying and tracing but there was unconnected accessory line in the fairing with an indicator light and toggle switch not in schematics. I'll poke around for the factory manual.

I did find 3 or so wires with bare wire showing so far and having even done the light/buzzer "wiggle test" yet but will do.

Hey Mike, you rode a mile past my house in Valley Center on the way to Palomar Mountain. Next time stop by!

Steve

[humbug01]

Update: After the bit of wire work earlier, I have not blown a fuse again. Crossing my fingers!

Now I'm on to doing valve adjust, balance carbs, and as much other maintenance stuff I can figure out. I've never done valves but info on the site and manuals make it seem do-able for a rookie like me.

Thanks again,

Steve

[MFolks]

The first time is always the hardest, as you're uncertain about the correct sequence of events, and wether or not enough of the right tools are there.
Don't rush measuring the valve clearances, being a little loose is far better than possibly burning a valve due to being too tight(minimum clearances).

These engine run better when a little loose, and if you have no noise, worry, as the valves may be getting too tight.

Some information about valve shim checking:

Kawasaki Valve Shim Checking Information
man-of-war wrote:

Thanks for the help guys!! I got a book but it's a supplement manual and does not give all the information.
My question is, should the cam lobe be pointing straight up away from the the lifter? The way that it's shown in the picture I posted in the link, I get a different reading every time.

Yes, point the lobe straight away from the bucket.

Anywhere on the base circle of the cam is an accepted point of measurement for lash, however, sometimes you'll get .0005 to - .00015" variance in measurements if you check several locations on the base circle.

In theory, if the cam is not worn and if the cam base circle is perfect, there would be no variance. In the real world, especially with aftermarket cams, there sometimes is variance.

Unless it's significant, don't worry about it, just point the lobe directly away from the bucket and go for max loose spec. In this case .015mm or .006".

Larry C.

man-of-war wrote:

READING FOR THE EXHAUST #1 .02mm #2 .06mm #3 .06mm #4 .06mm GAP
READING FOR THE INTAKE #1 .02mm #2 .02mm #3 .04mm #4 .04mm GAP
The book says 0.08 TO 0.18mm is within spec. The shims are so worn I can't see any numbers on them. I had to go buy a digital 4" caliper to get a reading off the old shim to reference the chart.

I ordered the correct shims today and I have to go pick them up tomorrow. The next problem is the timing chain tensioner has come all the way out. Please advise on how to retract that spring.As well as the cam bolts torque specs.
Thanks


Larry C Wrote:
Cam Cap Bolts - 8ft/lbs and no more. Oil the threads before you install them. Make SURE the dowels pins have the tapered end pointing up toward the cam cap. Drop of oil on them and inside the cap boss hole where the dowels slide in.

Remove the 17mm cap nut, spring and split plunger to unload the tensioner. You need to do that when ever the valve cover is removed to prevent over tight cam chain on “J” motors.

Do not re-install the split plunger, spring & cap nut until after you have the valve cover installed.