Cam Cap Stripped

[humbug01]

Another rookie question:

In another thread ("blown fuse") I mentioned that I'm now going to check the valve clearance on my 2001 KZ1000P. I've been very careful and read as much as I can first. The Clymer manual (I also have the factory shop manual) says to torque the cam cap bolts to 12 foot-lbs. It turns out 4 of the 16 are stripped (no I did not do it--on one of the caps someone even wrote "10" on the side of one where it's stripped). One of the bolts was even coming out when I first looked at it; i.e., not even finger tight.

Any suggestions appreciated. I've never fixed stripped threads and that aluminum seems soft....

Thanks in advance,

Steve

[MFolks]

Timesert kits

[MFolks]

The torque for the bolts should be 66 INCH Pounds, not 12 ft pounds. It's incorrect in the factory manual, and probably wrong for the Haynes,Clymer, and Chilton manuals too.

[humbug01]

OK, Timesert kit ordered.

Out of curiosity Mike, how did you know the torque specs are wrong in the factory (and Chilton) manuals? From 12 ft lbs to 5.5 is pretty significant amount....

Thanks,

Steve

[MFolks]

I found that out at KZrider.com. Somebody a ways back was complaining about stripped camshaft bearing cap bolts, and how his seemed to be over torqued. If you can find "Kopcicle" here on this forum, he can probably confirm the lower torque limit.

Another torque change is the two M6 x 1 cylinder head bolts , going from 104 INCH pounds to 94 INCH pounds.

[humbug01]

Good to know, Mike. Thanks.

[humbug01]

Another quick question: can I install the timesert repair without removing the cam caps? The stripped bolts are two on one cap and two on another. Do I need to remove the camshafts?

Sorry to old hands, just rookie jitters here.

Steve

[MFolks]

Due to maching operations, and chanced of getting metal shavings where they should not go, I'd suggest pulling the cams before any operation for the timeserts installation.

[humbug01]

You were right as expected Mike. I got the four timeserts in yesterday and seem to work quite well. When drilling out set of old threads, one came out in a big coil. Old Helicoils maybe? Anyway, waiting on some other things to arrive to adjust valves and put it all back together, but looks good so far. (Keeping fingers crossed!)

Thanks again,

Steve

[MFolks]

Yes, the old repair was using Heli-Coils, but if not done correctly(correct size drill bit and tap), it's worse than before. The drilling and tap work had to be done at 90 degrees to the surface,so it's better off having a machine shop you trust do the work.

[kopcicle]

In a pinch some of honda's drive chain adjustment bolts were 7mm so if there isn't room for or the repair interferes with the dowel or in the event of an imminent zombie attack just use the Helicoil tap for 6mm repair (actually a 7mm tap) or clean up the 7mm threads from a failed repair and install the 7mm capscrews .

In clean , lightly oiled , undamaged threads as little as 6 ft/lbs will hold , 7 is better , 8 is about max 10 is sure to cause problems . Most of the damage incurred is usually done by air fools (tools) and using one screw to to suck the camshaft down rather than a little from all the screws a bit at a time BY HAND . Even with care my street abused , multi-thousands of miles Gen III "J" head has thread-inserts all through it .

~kop

[humbug01]

Here's an update. I fixed the original four stripped threads and was putting the cam caps back on (carfully as Kop suggested) and two more stripped. That required buying more of the Time-sert inserts (only 5 come with the original kit). Finally got it all back on and it turns out the valves are all in spec (even a little loose: i.e., range from 0.14mm to 0.18mm). As I've read here they are better on the loose side.

Next is to get the valve cover on (the vacuum reed valve tubing all got misplaced somewhere and I'm just capping all that stuff off).

Then set balance the carbs and set the idle mixture and fix the slow leak in the rear tire (small nail visible). Hopefully I can ride this beast soon!

Thanks again for the help above,
Steve

[humbug01]

I thought I'd add a quick update. After fixing all above, I've been commuting to work without problems. The engine is indeed NOISY (I can hear the cam chain I'm sure), especially when I go up what we call "the Grade" (goes up 1300 feet over a 3 mile stretch). Thanks to all for the previous help. It really did help and the bike is much better now.

[MFolks]

Buy and install one of these: Krieger Cam Chain Tensioners It replaces the automatic tensioner on the cam chain, and should eliminate most of your engine noise. The maker of the tensioner is a forum member, and has supplied tensioners for many riders here.

[humbug01]

Thanks Mike. I ordered it yesterday on your recommendation. It's great for us non-mechanics to get this kind of help.
Best,
Steve

[MFolks]

It should greatly reduce your cam chain sound, but follow the instructions, as you don't want to over tighten the chain. Kawasaki's idea was sound in principle, but failed in actual use, as parts could get worn,affecting operation.