500r valve adjustment - trouble

[cspan37421]

I've been following the procedures for valve inspection & adjustment that were originally posted in detail with pics on the ex500riders.com forum (which seems to be down more often than not these days).

I am at the point of valve cover removal, and the thing just won't come off. I have removed what was called the right reed valve cap, and when the cover wouldn't come off, I removed the left one too (why it only said to do one side, I dunno). Anyway it still is stuck. The cables are not really in the way. I'm wondering if there are other bolts besides those 4 for the reed valve caps and the 6 for the valve cover.

Thanks, Cspan

[Superfly]

The gasket is probably held in place with some sealant (RTV or something like that), and sometimes it takes a little force to break the seal.

[cspan37421]

Thanks - yes, I tried a rubber mallet and the plastic end of a screwdriver to tap around & loosen it - no luck. This would be the first time the cover's been off, so I doubt there's any sealant unless it came that way from the factory.

[kc6wfs]

I think there are the 2 coolent lines going through the heads/valve covers.. Did ya remove the screws for them???????

Dave

[kc6wfs]

VALVE ADJUSTMENT
FOR THE EX 500 AND NINJA 500
Bill F.O.G. Martovich 08/13/03

This procedure is very simple and applies to almost any rocker arm engine. Few tools are required and they are simple ones at that.

Why: Valves are adjusted to maintain some clearance between the operating mechanism and the valve seat, to assure the valve closes on the seat for a good seal. If this fails to happen the engine will run poorly and damage could result. The amount of clearance is determined by the design of the valve train and the mfg. Experience as to wear life. Wear will usually decrease the clearance. (tighten) as the valve sinks deeper into the seat.

Generally the settings are done cold and allowance for heat expansion is included in the recommended settings. Deviating from these settings is a bad move, unless you know more than the manufacturer does (you don’t)

Tools required:
10 mm box wrench
Medium flat blade screwdriver
Feeler shims .005 .007 .009 two of each recommended

Procedure for EX500:

Drain the coolant (oils ok)
Remove the tank, right side coil, coolant pipes (the hoses can be left on).
Note: the carbs can be left on but it’s a lot easier if you remove them too.

Remove the cam valve cover
Remove the two copper oil lines
Remove the plugs in the left side engine cover
Remove the spark plugs (put a wad of paper towel in the cavity to prevent dropping something into the plugholes (this is a bad thing).

Using a 14mm socket wrench turn the engine over in a clockwise direction until the “C” mark on the flywheel is visible in the small inspection port and the cam lobes on the #1 cylinder face away from the rocker arms. (#1 is the right side as on the bike).
Note at this point the cam wheels will show the “IN” mark and the “EX” mark level with the cam box outboard surface (approx.)


Now to adjust the valves check with the feeler gages the space between the Adjusting screw and the top of the valve Intakes between .005-.007 Exhausts .007- .009 if they are within that range your golden (footsing around to make the perfect will gain you nothing).

The next cylinder: Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the second piston is TDC and the cam lobes are pointing away from the valves. And check cyl#2.

If they are not: loosen the ten mm lock nuts (both) slip 2 feelers under each Screw and adjust hold the adjustment with the Screwdriver and tighten with the box wrench. This can cause the adjustment to change so check again. Using two feelers cancels any wear on the rocker arm to its shaft.

Turn the engine until the other cylinders cam lobes are pointing away from its valves and repeat steps above.


Recommended at this time to re torque the head bolts to 35 lbs.
Also remove and clean the “O” rings from the water pipes and the hole in the head they came out of. Reassemble with grease or RTV to prevent leaks

Tips: Setting the valves on the tight side will improve the engines performance and make it quieter, but shorten the inspection interval by ½

Reassemble.

Sources: Kawasaki manuals EN400 EN450 EX500 Supplement

[cspan37421]

Yes, I removed the coolant tubes going into the cover - the screws were tight and needed an impact screwdriver to get out w/o stripping. I also ended up taking the thermostat hoses off entirely - they were in the way of some cover head bolts plus the bolts for the reed valve cover. I didn't remove the cables but they aren't obviously in the way - there's vertical clearance. Either there are other bolts holding it on (I read of banjo bolts for oil lines on predecessor models like the 454), or the thing has just basically fused itself together. Tis a bugger. I have done valves before on a Nighthawk 250 and it was a piece of cake by comparison. Even so, I think I can do this if the thing would just come off. BTW, I am using a combo of the factory service manual and the pretty richly detailed posting at ex500riders.com by:

Description An Illustrated Guide by Tony Reyes
Author antrey Date Sat Jun 03, 2006 10:41 pm Type How-To
Keywords
Category Engine

FOG, I note in your writeup that you recommend removing the carbs too. Would this help in terms of getting the cover off, or are its advantages seen at another stage in the process? Thanks a bunch, cspan.

[UNDERTOW]

i have a 06 ex500 with 2000 miles and at the 500 mile the dealership said they were fine who will i know when it needs to be done

[cspan37421]

At 500 miles they're supposed to get an initial check. My dealer said they'd do it, but didn't, but on the plus side, they didn't charge for it either. They just said, "it doesn't really need it." I got the same message for the 7,500 mile service, that's why I'm trying it myself. Obviously they don't want to do it, but at least they're honest about it. Manual says that after those intervals, do it at 15k and 24k.

[UNDERTOW]

guy to take it to
there is this chopper place on the south side of town that said they could do work on it for me and i have seen all kinds of bikes in and out of there and they sell street gear but trusting some one is hard

[Nessism]

There are six bolts that hold the valve cover on - three on front and three on the back (the bolts have been removed in the photo below). Do not mess around with the bolts holding on the reed valve covers, you are just wasting time. After you get these off, the valve cover will come loose; nothing else to remove other than the coolant lines which you said are already off.

Regarding the need to adjust the valves, I'd do it. The rockers on the EX are forked and if the clearance is not the same right to left, the rocker will tilt slightly and cause uneven wear on one side of the cam/rocker. Side wear on the cams/rockers is VERY common on these motors - don't ask me how I learned about this. Take your time and make sure the clearance is the same side to side. The actual amount of clearance is not as important as having both the same.

Good luck.

Photo below is what happens to your cams when one valve it tighter than the other.

[cspan37421]

Thanks for the pics - the smaller one - yeah, that's the part that won't come off. I had all 6 valve cover bolts off, the coolant tubes out (why do they bother using phillips head screws for that? Those things are so prone to stripping...). Also the reed valve stuff, but yeah, once I got those 4 bolts out I could tell they weren't holding it on. Supposedly nothing holding it on.

Anyway I tugged and tugged, the thing won't budge. I fashioned a handle out of zip ties and twine to try and pull it straight up - no luck either. Even did the rubber mallet thing. No luck. All I have to show for all that disassembly is a change of spark plugs and a 75% change in coolant (I didn't dump the overflow reservoir).

I finally gave up. I'll have the dealer do it, if they convince me they will.

This bike performs very well but the servicing needs and difficulty are a real PITA. Also, IMO the Kawa factory manuals are quite inferior to those of Honda - both in photo clarity and in text organization/explanation.

[Commuter]

I have a 2006 EX500. I did the valve adjustment at about 2800 miles because it was ticking enough to bother me. The exhaust valves were freakin tight, intakes were perfect. Glad I did it because I just don't have the same confidence in underpaid beginner dealer techs. (No offense to any skilled dealer techs in the audience).

The valve cover on mine would not come off without gently prying it up. I applied upward pressure on the "bridge" piece near the spark plug on each side.

Once you get it free the fun really begins! You have to work the cover around for about 30 minutes to get it up and out of the frame. That part will have you thinking about taking it to the dealer too! Be patient and you will get it out.

Keep at it, you'll get it done.

Neal

[Nessism]

I believe Kawasaki uses sealer on the valve cover gasket to first glue it down to the valve cover itself, and second, to seal the half-moon shaped camshaft cutouts. Because the sealer glues down the cover it does not surprise me that some people have trouble getting it off. Gently prying will help of course but be careful.

[kc6wfs]

Mine took some work but not too much to remove.
Removing the carbs would not help any...
So the cover would not budge at all??? Strange..
Wish I could help more...

Dave

[wiredgeorge]

FWIW: Ticking is louder when you FIRST adjust clearances and they are greater rather than less. A clearance set that is too wide will make a real racket. Valves tend to QUIET when the clearances close up. Once the cam lobe is putting constant pressure on a bucket, there is almost NO noise.