Track bike help

[JP 636]

I just picked up a 01 Honda CBR 929 that had been wrecked. The previous owner intended to make a track bike out of it but never finished. He had cut the wiring harness to the tail, no need for lights on the track. The problem is that now the bike will not start. No fuel pump, PC III has no power, and the motor will not crank over. I have good battery power, and can jump the solinoid to get the motor to crank. Any ideas of what could be wrong? I do have the wiring harness that has been cut out, just haven't tried to splice it back together. The bike did start and run before the hack job on the wiring. I heard that Honda has a lean angle sensor to stop fuel if the bike is on it's side but can not confirm this.

[RomSpaceKnight]

You will needa manual that has a wiring schematic. Or toss harness and fab up your own with minimal wiring to get it on track.

[mrbuell]

There is a bank angle sensor also ther may be a power realy shorted or missing, As stated need a manual

[JP 636]

I WILL NOT buy, have someone buy for me, or even go into the Honda dealership here. Even if the place was on fire and I had a chance to save a few bikes from fire I would not go in there. I guess I will take the time and splice the harness back together and see what happens. Other than that I will have to make a hours drive go get said manual elsewhere. Thanks for the input.

[RomSpaceKnight]

E-bay or other WWW sources and UPS or FedEx?

[wiredgeorge]

If you buy a bike in this condition, you had best learn to troubleshoot problems that you will likely encounter. A wiring diagram will help. Keep in mind I don't know a lot about Ho... errrr Hon... cough couch... I can't say the word... sorry but...

OK, ALL bikes work pretty much the same as far as the electricals...

1. IS BATTERY FRESHLY CHARGED? If it is, it doesn't make much difference the condition of the wiring as far as the alternator/stator and reg/rec. Bike should turn over when you push the starter button...

2. Check fuses. All OK? If you have a blown fuse, DC doesn't flow.

3. OK, power from the battery goes to the ignition switch. Find your ignition switch. Get a multimeter and see if there is power on the wiring GOING IN. This wire will be larger than the others (here is where the wiring diagram helps)... this is a large, 14 ga. wire on a Kaw but a Hon... errrr caugh, well who knows? This wire is HOT all the time.

4. Other wires OUT of the switch will be various colors. One or more will come out for lighting sub-circuits, one will come out for coil power (and Dyna 3 power) as well as for the trigger wire for your starter solenoid. OK... to find this wire, open your right switch gear and see what color wire goes INTO the kill switch. Find this color on your ignition switch and turn the switch on and see if there is voltage. IF NOT, then the ignition switch is dead. If there is, go put your kill switch in RUN position.

5. Two wires coming off the KILL SWITCH!!! One loops down to the button in the switch. With the kill switch ON and ignition switch ON, see if there is voltage on the internal wire going to the button. If there is, the kill switch is OK. If not, the kill switch is bad. The other wire coming off the kill switch is the power wire to your coils. It should also have 12VDC when the ignition switch is ON and the kill switch is in RUN position.

6. OK IF you have power coming off the Kill Switch, then trace the wire FROM the starter button TO the solenoid. Put your positive multimeter lead (meter in VDC scale) on the lug on the starter solenoid where this wire connects. Keep in mind your bike very likely has some safety interlock; either on the clutch perch or kickstand that forms a loop in this wire's connection to the solenoid and thus the kickstand may need to be up or the clutch pulled in in order for power to run... you did try and start it with the clutch in and kickstand up? Anyway, the meter positive probe is on the starter solenoid where this wire connects and the negative probe is on a ground. Turn the ignition switch on and make sure the kill switch is in RUN position. If you see no power at the solenoid, the wire is not connected or the possible safety interlock wiring is disconnected. The wiring for the coils should be on regardless of the safety interlock connection...

Hopefully I gave you some ideas on how to troubleshoot this type problem. Should not take more than 10 minutes or so to find the place where you are having problems even if the harness is whacked and hacked.