1982 Kawasaki 750 LTD. Is this sproket ok?

[1982Kawi750LTD]

Hello to all and thanks for your comments. This is my first bike and I have a question about the chain and sprockets. There is no adjustment left in the chain tensioner and the chain is very loose. The chain taps on the bike stand when I ride it in the backyard. I do know that I need to replace the chain. It looks poorly taken care of. Its a 630 type chain. I would like to know if the sprocket still looks ok to you guys? I've read on other posts that if replacing the chain you should replace both sprockets also. I've also read about doing a 630 to 530 conversion. I'd like some input from you guys about my options. Should I just replace the chain? Or replace chain and both sprockets? Or do the 630 to 530 conversion? Thanks to all.
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[GREENISBEST]

WOW Now that's what i call FOOKED

Replace both chain and sprockets, You replace just the chain and the worn sprockets will stretch it in no time and you'll be back where you are now...

The 630/530 conversion is what some people carry out to reduce the rolling resistance of a larger chain and sprocket set, It was a popular mod on the ZX7R P Models although they run a smaller chain size to start with some owners dropped a size for this gain

I can't see a benefit on your bike apart from some savings maybe on the parts..

Maybe someone here has done the conversion on your Model and can better enlighten you of the results

[WeBeToyz]

This will raise many different opinions, but it is my rule to replace the chain and front/rear sprockets at the same time. I don't see any reason to make the chain conversion.

And the fun begins...

[1982Kawi750LTD]

Been looking at Z1enterprises for these parts. Sprockets don't cost as much as I had thought they would. I will replace chain AND sprockets. Thanks for your help. Any other recomendations on maintenance or sites to purchase parts for my bike?

[Jeff.saunders]

I'm kinda biased as to my recommendation on a parts source...

The 530 conversion reduces chain weight by nearly 1lb - that doesn't sound much, but as it's rotating weight it has a direct bearing on power at the rear wheel - you'll see a very slight power improvement going to 530 chain. Don't worry about strength - ZX1400's and 'busas run 530 chain.

Generally you get a better selection of chain at a slightly lower price than 630 o-ring chain.

[metric sprocket]

change me ,convert me,yes

[1982Kawi750LTD]

Thanks Jeff and metricsprocket for your comments. I'm still thinking about the chain conversion. Looks like z1enterprises really knows their stuff.

[zedx11]

WOW Now that's what i call FOOKED

that is bad but, I have seen worse. I've seen them with little nubs, no pointy teeth at all.

[GREENISBEST]

that is bad but, I have seen worse. I've seen them with little nubs, no pointy teeth at all.

Prehaps i used to much WOW, We tend to get easily excited here in the UK, That's my excuse anyway

I will try to contain myself in future

[zedx11]

Prehaps i used to much WOW, We tend to get easily excited here in the UK, That's my excuse anyway

I will try to contain myself in future

the guy that had the one I seen thought his clutch was slipping, that was the bad part. LOL

[Jeff.saunders]

I bought a bike a few years ago - the chain was as tight as it could be to try and stop it from sliding over the abbreviated teeth... that was probably the worst bike I ever bought - the owner have used 3/8" bolts in just about all the metric 6mm bolt holes and killed the threads in everything...

[JimmyD]

I recently replaced my chain; the mechanic at the local dealer told me I didnt need a sprocket change even though the chain was worn out. However, in your case... yes. I've seen worse.

But the good news is a new set of sprockets will only run you about 50-60 bucks...ish.

[Roofgunner]

I have to comment on drive chains. When I've been out and observing motorcyles it's amazing on how many poorly maintained chains there are. Poorly adjusted and poorly lubed, etc. A poorly adjusted or lubed chain can result in your death on a motorcycle. It must be kept clean, lubed and adjusted. The bike will operate more efficently, shift easier and run quieter. I've been a fanatic on chain maint. Always replace chain and sprockets together and break them in properly because it won't hold adjustment until the chain seats on the sprocket. Once it does, a good o-ring chain shouldn't require much adjustment unless it's been run hard or not lubed. So use a good chain lube and keep it clean all the time. I've always believed that you can tell how an owner maintains his machine by the condition of the drive chain.

[Hopper]

Yes i have learned the hard way. I did not take care of my chain and now have a worn out chain and broken teeth on the rear sprocket. It is really noisy too.

Does anyone know how easy it is to change the chain and sprockets? Is it something i can easily do myself?

[GREENISBEST]

They are easy enough to do with the right tools and a bit of common sense.

Hardest part is probably removing the front sprocket nut as there usually FT

I have heard stories told of people with 3/4" Drive breaker bars with 10ft lengths of tube attached and 15 of their mates all sitting on and holding down their pride and joy trying to loosen this nut
Only to end up shattering the output shaft bearing because of the stress applied sideways by said nut removing tactics

I use an 18v Cordless Snapon Impact Gun which applies zero stress to the bearing and pops the nut off without bother

I know one of these is not going to be in you tool kit (Or is it ?) so i would in your situation try first to see if the nut will come off without enlisting the help of extra leverage or mates ....You may be lucky, If not then you either need to find a friendly chap/Spanner man that can zip it undone for you or a dealer

Oh and by the way what bike is it ?????????????

[Roofgunner]

There's two ways to do this: One is use the factory tool that holds the front sprocket while you remove it. The way I do it is with an air wrench either a 3/8's or 1/2 inch-and this is the easiest. If it's got a locking tab device make sure you have it bent out so you can get the socket on the nut. Install a new one when putting the nut back on. If the nut is bad or in poor shape, put a new one on. Retorque the nut to the proper specs or you could mark the position of where the original is so you can get it back where it was after you put on the new front sprocket. The best thing is to torque it and I used to put on a little blue loctite just to be safe. The rear sprocket should be put on with the same care. Rear chains can be removed with a chain breaker. If you don't have one, and depending on the chain and type of master link it has, if it's got one, you will have to grind off the ends of the link pins and drive them out in order to remove the chain. Do this before you do anything as it's easier to do it while it's on the old sprocket. Also, depending on the tools you have you may want to bust the nut on the front spocket as the resistence of the back wheel will help hold it. If worse comes to worse you can have someone hold the rear wheel and with a sharp chisel break loose the nut on the front sprocket. That's as a last resort. But it will work and be careful what and how you hit if you do it. After you have both new sprokets installed put the chain on. Be careful if it's an O-ring when you assemble the master link. With chains nowadays, it may require you to crimp or spread the ends of the pins and install the cirplip, depending on the brand. Lube and adjust the chain at it's tightest spot and break it in properly- not real fast. I suggest a minimum of downshifting. Brakes are cheaper than chains and transmissions unless you are really running a road course. I think I've covered it. PS. I suppose you could use a cut off wheel and cut the side plates of one of the links but you'll have alot of metal dust flying around, which I don't like. Also check the seal on the output shaft while you have the front sprocket off. If it's leaking replace it. Clean associated parts and check the rear brakes, etc.

[Hopper]

Thanks for the advice. It’s a 2001 EX500. I have been looking around for a chain/sprocket set and came across a 520 conversion kit on ebay for $150 including shipping. Is this worth doing? I’ve been riding my 500 (my first bike) for about 6 months and want something a little faster but can’t afford a different bike now. I was just wondering if the kit would actually improve acceleration on the 500 and how much top end speed is lost. Any thoughts?

[Roofgunner]

I'm not sure what size chain your bike came with or the number of teeth that are on the front and rear spocket. I would tend to stick withthe stock set up. Remember: If you decrease the number of teeth on the front and increase on the rear you are lowering the gear ratio which means the motor will turn more RPM's at the same MPH than it did stock. If you reverse the situation, it will turn less RPM's at the same MPH. If you change too many things here, you may have to remove links out of the chain and your chain adjustment set up may be altered, etc. Too keep things simple, I would stay with the stock ratio's because the bike builder set it up to take advantage of where you motor makes the most torque, hp and is efficient. $150 for chain and sprockets is a reasonable price. A chian for my ZX-11 was $112.00 a few years ago. Make sure it's a good chain, like an o-ring type and a brand name. As far as chain size is concerned the smaller the chain the less power is lost to run the whole system but I doubt if you would notice anything, it makes littke difference in your case. Chain drive is actually more efficient than a shaft due to power lost through the system.

[Hopper]

Sticking with the stock set up makes the most sense I guess. Like you mentioned, I assume that Kawasaki's engineering team puts a lot of work into optimizing performance in their bikes. I guess I’ll just start saving money for a 600.

[Kawasaki ZX600r]

You should see my sproket it has no teeth just little nubs on it