Need to check every last part of bike Help Wanted

[givmedew]

I just purchased a 04 Ninja ZX6R 636 Just got it this week

I need to check every last bit of the bike because the previous owner was young and seemed not to care to much about the bike or his life because when I picked the bike up the front brakes did not function properly and I dont think he even knew a problem existed. Also the bike died alot when I bought it and within an hour I noticed the little knob and adjusted the idle to 1100. Those 2 things coupled together made the bike very dangerous to ride as on my ride home from picking it up I was stugling to keep the bike from dying while stoping and strugling to stop period.

Here is my list

Bleed brakes and completly run out old fluid(done) lots of bubbles
Lube/Clean brake lever area (done) corrosion and grime was causing problems making the lever very CRUNCHY causing stopping to irratic NOT SMOOTH
Inspect entire braking system for problems (done)
Clean and lube chain (done) used simple green and PJ1 Blue Label
Inspect chain slack and adjust (done)
Adjust tire pressures (done)

not done yet
Radiator fluid change (what fluid is recommended)
Oil Change (what oil is recommended) purchased k+n oil filter since it was only $1 more than factory dont necisarily believe in a differance though but who knows


also do I need to
check valve lashing?
bike tics but I suppose this is normal to an extent (could not hear it over the timing chain on my last bike)
check any other systems?
what is the plastic bulb on the left side of the bike it is empty and dry is this some sort of catch can?

also is it common for
horn does not function
lap button does not function (do not care however could have something to do with the horn?)

I have all the plastics off and am going to go over this thing in full tomorrow

Any other sugestions while I have this baby stripped down?

air filter? stock or K+N? last bike k+n filters where well known for robbing power (honda RC51)

[StarGate]

Sounds like you intend to do most maintenance yourself so first line of business would be to acquire a good service manual for your bike. You can probably find a clymers on ebay or a local or Internet cycle supply business.
There are a few threads on the forums debating what oil to use but bottom line is it's your choice. Majority here seem to prefer a good synthetic or 10w 40 oil that has no additives. IE. Castrol GTX 10w 40 or if you operate in a hotter climate go to a 20w 50 for summer operations. I don't have a liquid cooled bike but have seen on here where a 60% water 40% coolant was recommended.

For checking other things I would suggest using the mileage on the bike and do scheduled maintenance. Check things like valve lash based on that unless you have symptoms that indicate earlier service/repair is needed. It sounds like you need to get a meter and track down the problem with your horns and you will have a schematic to aid in that with a service manual.

[givmedew]

just making sure but when checking oil level after replacing filter you check oil level, start bike, turn bike off, wait, add oil to oil level, start bike, turn bike off, wait 30 minutes, check oil level again. go ride and check oil system and level after bike cools down.

Sound right?

[JimmyD]

You don't have to be quite that meticulous about the oil change but that's the right idea. I change it quite hot so there's lots of oil on the top end when it's pumping the cold stuff through the filter. The less time you take to top up the bike, the less oil is running back into the crankcase.

As far as your valves go, it's better to hear them then not to hear them. I'd definitely put them on your to do list however, especially considering the state the previous squid owner had the bike in. He may or may not have checked up on them regularly.

+1 to star's oil explanation. Since you're in the states synthetic is cheap insurance. You'd probably be better off running 20w-50 in florida, at least during the summer, and switching it to a 10w-40 in the winter.