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Old 08-29-2007   #1 (permalink)
poison
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Default Key Registration special tool

Hi to all
I need the Key Registration special tool (P/N 57001-1582). I need to register another key on Kawasaki ZX-6R (2007). The problem is that this tool cost around 120EURO (150 USD). Can this tool be home made? I'll post some pictures. You can see that on one side the tool goes into the diagnostic port but I can't see what is on the other side (that little black thing). Does any one know what is inside the black thing? The same tool is used for registering keys for Kawasaki water crafts.
Thank you in front
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Old 08-30-2007   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poison View Post
Hi to all
I need the Key Registration special tool (P/N 57001-1582). I need to register another key on Kawasaki ZX-6R (2007). The problem is that this tool cost around 120EURO (150 USD). Can this tool be home made? I'll post some pictures. You can see that on one side the tool goes into the diagnostic port but I can't see what is on the other side (that little black thing). Does any one know what is inside the black thing? The same tool is used for registering keys for Kawasaki water crafts.
Thank you in front
That particular tool is tightly controlled by Kawasaki and you should be UNABLE to purchase it anywhere as it is part of the security system used by dealers...

If you can get hold of one then somebody's being naughty
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Old 10-17-2007   #3 (permalink)
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Hi to all.
I have a big problem with this bike. I purchased the Key Registration special tool (P/N 57001-1582). But I can't start the bike.
A little explanation of the problem.
The bike had a crash after which it was not possible to start it. When you turn the ignition key, the fuel pump does not start. I tested the pump by applying battery voltage directly to the pump and the pump is working. On the dash i see the "key" indicator blinking and the red diode on the right side is blinking fast when I turn the key. I check the fuses, they are all OK. I tested the relay box, it is OK.
I can't get reading from the ECU. When I connect the KDS tool it shows no connection. I connect the KDS on another bike and it is working. So the KDS is OK.
So what to do????????
I guess that the Immo is activated from the crash (I have no idea how) and I need to re-register all the keys to the bikes ECU. I have the red mster key and one spare black key.
But when I connect the Key Registration special tool to the ECU diagnostic port I can't get in to the Key registration mode.
HEEELLLLLLLLLLP
Does any one know what to do?
Or does any one have the Service Manual for this bike?
The bike is :
Kawasaki ZX-6R
chassis/engine code: JKAZX600PPA014590
Year: 2007
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Old 10-18-2007   #4 (permalink)
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Is this post remotely connected to your earlier post with regards to the Key Registration Tool ????

Are you using KDS 2 or 3?

Sounds like the crash may have damaged the Immobiliser Amplifier and now the Key is not being recognised by the ECU.

Additionally have you checked the Tip Over Sensor to make sure that is functioning as this will shut off the motor in the event of a crash and resets itself after you right the bike and cycle the Ignition key for the first time after the crash..

I would hold off with trying to re register your keys as this could cause you more problems than it cures as i am confident this is not the Issue at present..

You have mail with regards to a Manual
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Last edited by GREENISBEST : 10-18-2007 at 02:37 AM.
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Old 10-18-2007   #5 (permalink)
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Yes this post is connected to my earlier post.

I'm using KDS 3

I did check the parameters for the Immobilizer Amplifier and they were in the specified range.

I did check the Tip Over Sensor and the measured values were in the specified range.

Any suggestion what to check and what to measure?
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Old 10-19-2007   #6 (permalink)
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If your getting Error code 35 then the Immobiliser Amplifier will need replacing.

Fixing or Re-Setting the Immobiliser Amplifier is as far as i know not possible, So a new one is required..

Did the crash damage touch the area where the Immobiliser is situated ?
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Old 10-19-2007   #7 (permalink)
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Yes. It was a full frontal crash. The front mask with all the lights is broken, the front fork (the lower part of the fork, at the wheel) and the fuel tank are severally damaged. The immobilizer amplifier however is not damaged severally but there are some scratches on the casing.
So new Immo. amp. is the solution? Oh well, let it be. I'll order the new part and I'll post the information as soon as the bike is working again.
Thank you for the information.
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Old 10-20-2007   #8 (permalink)
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Is there a chance to start the bike without the Immo? Somehow to override the immo?
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Old 10-20-2007   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks, Greenisbest. This has been very informative reading. I hope he doesn't have to replace the ECU also.
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Old 10-20-2007   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poison View Post
Is there a chance to start the bike without the Immo? Somehow to override the immo?

None what so ever

You can't over ride the Immobiliser system as Kawasaki have spent a good few bucks on preventing this from occurring..

I will tell you that the Fault code 35 not only points you in the direction of the Immobiliser Amplifier but also states that i could be an open or short in the wiring to or from the Component, So careful checking of the associated wiring is advisable BEFORE replacing the Amplifier..
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Old 10-20-2007   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GREENISBEST View Post

I will tell you that the Fault code 35 not only points you in the direction of the Immobilizer Amplifier but also states that i could be an open or short in the wiring to or from the Component, So careful checking of the associated wiring is advisable BEFORE replacing the Amplifier..
That is something that I'm going to do Monday morning. I'll check all the wiring from the Immo Amp. since it was a frontal crash and there is a possibility that there is some damage to the wires.
I'll post updates because I see there are other members that got interested in this topic.
Wish me luck
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Old 10-20-2007   #12 (permalink)
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Good luck ...
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Old 10-20-2007   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A2rider View Post
Thanks, Greenisbest. This has been very informative reading. I hope he doesn't have to replace the ECU also.
Thanks, But i think he's in with a shot with the Imobiliser circuit
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Old 10-21-2007   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GREENISBEST View Post
Thanks, But i think he's in with a shot with the Imobiliser circuit

I hope so, ECU's aren't cheap!
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Old 10-22-2007   #15 (permalink)
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Well here are the results of todays testing. I've checked all the wiring from and to the Immo. Amp. and they are all good. No short or open circuit what so ever. All the wires are OK.
So what now? Can I do like this: can I use the Immo amp from another bike (the same model and production year and the same series as this one), for which I know that is working, and to put that Immo amp on this bike? Is that going to work? Just to check if the Immo amp is damaged.
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Old 10-23-2007   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poison View Post
Well here are the results of todays testing. I've checked all the wiring from and to the Immo. Amp. and they are all good. No short or open circuit what so ever. All the wires are OK.
So what now? Can I do like this: can I use the Immo amp from another bike (the same model and production year and the same series as this one), for which I know that is working, and to put that Immo amp on this bike? Is that going to work? Just to check if the Immo amp is damaged.
Yep that is doable as it's not part of the Matched system it only Amps the signal from the Ariel around the Ignition Barrel to the ECU..
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Old 10-24-2007   #17 (permalink)
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Hi to all
Here are the results of todays work. I used a Immo. Amp. from Kawasaki Z1000 that is working and guess what? The ninja started. HURAYYYYYYYYYYY. After that I put the Immo. Amp from the Ninja (the original one that I suspect that it is damaged) on the Z1000 and the Z1000 did not start. So the amp is damaged.
I'll order the part from the dealers tomorrow.
I also find a little problem with some loose wires at the ECU connectors. So if some one of you dear readers at some time face a problem like this, always check all the connectors and connection points and when you check them be sure that you twist and band the wires a little bit. When I checked the wires for the first time they showed no problems but after a more detail inspection 3 wires had bad contact with the ECU.
Thank you a lot GREENISBEST for all of your help and suggestions.
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Old 10-25-2007   #18 (permalink)
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Your welcome and glad your lady is running again
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