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#1 (permalink) |
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Beserker biker woman
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Posts: 18,602
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"The Complete Idiot's Guide to Motorcycle Diagnostics"
While this is not a complete guide of every possible cause for each problem listed, it will help assist mechanics in troubleshooting some of the most common difficulties they will face. Engine Doesn’t Start, Starting Difficulty: Starter motor not rotating: Starter lockout or neutral switch trouble Starter motor trouble Battery voltage low Relays not contacting or operating Starter button not contacting Wiring open or shorted Ignition switch trouble Engine stop switch trouble Main fuse blown Starter motor rotating but engine doesn’t turn over: Starter motor clutch trouble Engine won’t turn over: Valve seizure Rocker arm seizure Cylinder, piston seizure Crankshaft seizure Connecting rod small end seizure Connecting rod big end seizure Transmission gear or bearing seizure Camshaft seizure No fuel flow: Fuel tap vacuum hose clogged Fuel tank air vent obstructed Fuel tap clogged Fuel line clogged Float valve clogged Engine flooded: Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high Float valve worn or stuck open Starting technique faulty (When flooded, crank the engine with the throttle fully open to allow more air to reach the engine.) No spark; spark weak: Battery voltage low Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted Spark plug cap or high tension wiring trouble Spark plug cap not in good contact Spark plug incorrect IC igniter trouble Neutral, starter lockout, or side stand switch trouble Pickup coil trouble Ignition coil trouble Ignition or engine stop switch shorted Wiring shorted or open Main fuse blown Compression Low: Spark plug loose Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down No valve clearance Cylinder, piston worn Piston ring bad (worn, weak broken, or sticking) Piston ring/land clearance excessive Cylinder head gasket damaged Cylinder head warped Valve spring broken or weak Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface)
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I am short enough and ugly enough to succeed on my own. - Woody Allen Last edited by A2rider : 12-28-2007 at 08:45 PM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Beserker biker woman
Forum Supporter
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 18,602
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Poor Running at Low Speed:
Spark weak: Battery voltage low Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted Spark plug cap or high tension wiring trouble Spark Plug cap shorted or not in good contact Spark plug incorrect IC igniter trouble Pickup coil trouble Ignition coil trouble Fuel/air mixture incorrect: Pilot screw maladjusted Pilot jet, or air passage clogged Air bleed pipe bleed holes clogged Pilot passage clogged Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing Starter plunger stuck open Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high or too low Fuel tank air vent obstructed Carburetor holder loose Air cleaner duct loose Compression low: Spark plug loose Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down No valve clearance Cylinder, piston worn Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking) Piston ring/land clearance excessive Cylinder head warped Cylinder head gasket damaged Valve spring broken or weak Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface) Other: IC igniter trouble Carburetors not synchronizing Vacuum piston doesn’t slide smoothly Engine oil viscosity too high Drive train trouble Brake dragging ____________
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I am short enough and ugly enough to succeed on my own. - Woody Allen |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Beserker biker woman
Forum Supporter
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 18,602
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Poor Running or No Power at High Speed:
Firing incorrect: Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted Spark plug cap shorted or not in good contact Spark plug incorrect IC igniter trouble Pickup coil trouble Ignition coil trouble Fuel/air mixture incorrect: Starter plunger stuck open Main jet clogged or wrong size Jet needle or needle jet worn Air jet clogged Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high or too low Bleed holes of air bleed pipe or needle jet clogged Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing Air cleaner duct poorly sealed Water of foreign matter in fuel Carburetor holder loose Fuel tank air vent obstructed Fuel tap clogged Fuel line clogged Compression low: Spark plug loose Cylinder head not.sufficiently tightened down No valve clearance Cylinder, piston worn Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking) Piston ring/land clearance excessive Cylinder head gasket damaged Cylinder head warped Valve spring broken or weak Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface.) Knocking: Carbon built up in combustion chamber Fuel poor quality or incorrect Spark plug incorrect IC igniter trouble Miscellaneous: Throttle valve won’t fully open Vacuum piston doesn’t slide smoothly Brake dragging Clutch slipping Overheating Engine oil level too high Engine oil viscosity too high Drive train trouble
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I am short enough and ugly enough to succeed on my own. - Woody Allen |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Beserker biker woman
Forum Supporter
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Posts: 18,602
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Overheating:
Firing incorrect: Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted Spark plug incorrect IC igniter trouble Fuel/air mixture incorrect: Main jet clogged or wrong size Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too low Carburetor holder loose Air cleaner poorly sealed, or missing Air cleaner duct poorly sealed Air cleaner clogged Compression high: Carbon built up in combustion chamber Engine load faulty: Clutch slipping Engine oiHevel too high Engine oil viscosity too high Drive train trouble Brake dragging Lubrication inadequate: Engine oil level too low Engine oil poor quality or incorrect Coolant incorrect: Coolant level too low Coolant deteriorated Cooling system component incorrect: Radiator clogged Thermostat trouble Radiator cap trouble Thermostatic fan switch trouble Fan relay trouble Fan motor broken Fan blade damaged Water pump not turning Water pump impeller damaged Over Cooling: Cooling system component incorrect: Thermostatic fan switch trouble Thermostat trouble
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I am short enough and ugly enough to succeed on my own. - Woody Allen |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Beserker biker woman
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Posts: 18,602
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Clutch Operation Faulty:
Clutch slipping: Friction plate worn or warped Steel plate worn or warped Clutch spring broken or weak Clutch release mechanism trouble Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn Clutch not disengaging properly: Clutch plate warped or too rough Clutch spring tension uneven Engine oil deteriorated Engine oil viscosity too high Engine oil level too high Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft Clutch release mechanism trouble
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I am short enough and ugly enough to succeed on my own. - Woody Allen |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Beserker biker woman
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Posts: 18,602
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Gear Shifting Faulty:
Doesn’t go into gear; shift pedal doesn’t return: Clutch not disengaging Shift fork bent or seized Gear stuck on the shaft Shift return spring weak or broken Shift return spring pin loose Pawl spring broken Shift mechanism arm broken Jumps out of gear: Shift fork worn Gear groove worn Gear dogs and/or dog holes worn Shift drum groove worn Neutral positioning pin spring weak or broken Shift fork pin worn Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear splines worn Overshifts: Neutral positioning pin spring weak or broken Pawl spring broken
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I am short enough and ugly enough to succeed on my own. - Woody Allen |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Beserker biker woman
Forum Supporter
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Posts: 18,602
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Abnormal Engine Noise:
Knocking: IC igniter trouble Carbon built up in combustion chamber Fuel poor quality or incorrect Spark plug incorrect Overheating Piston slap: Cylinder/piston clearance excessive Cylinder, piston worn Connecting rod bent Piston pin, piston holes worn Valve noise: Valve clearance incorrect Valve spring broken or weak Camshaft bearing worn Other noise: Connecting rod small end clearance excessive Connecting rod big end clearance excessive Piston ring worn, broken or stuck Piston seizure, damage Cylinder head gasket leaking Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection Crankshaft runout excessive Engine mounts loose Crankshaft bearing worn Camshaft chain tensioner trouble Camshaft chain, sprocket, guide worn
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I am short enough and ugly enough to succeed on my own. - Woody Allen |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Beserker biker woman
Forum Supporter
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Posts: 18,602
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Abnormal Drive Train Noise:
Clutch noise: Weak or damaged damper Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive Clutch housing gear worn Transmission noise: Bearings worn Transmission gears worn or chipped Metal chips jammed in gear teeth Engine oil insufficient Drive chain noise: Drive chain adjusted improperly Chain worn Rear and/or engine sprocket worn Chain lubrication insufficient Rear wheel misaligned Abnormal Frame Noise: Front fork noise: Oil insufficient or too thin Spring weak or broken Rear shock absorber noise: Shock absorber damaged Disc brake noise: Pad installed incorrectly Pad surface glazed Disc warped Caliper trouble Other noise: Bracket, nut, bolt, etc. not properly mounted or tightened
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I am short enough and ugly enough to succeed on my own. - Woody Allen |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Beserker biker woman
Forum Supporter
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Posts: 18,602
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Oil Pressure Warning Light Goes On:
Engine oil pump damaged Engine oil screen clogged Engine oil level too low Engine oil viscosity too low Camshaft bearings worn Crankshaft bearings worn Oil pressure switch damaged Wiring damaged Relief valve stuck open O-ring at the oil pipe in the crankcase damaged Exhaust Smokes Excessively: White smoke: Piston oil ring worn Cylinder worn Valve oil seal damaged Valve guide worn Engine oil level too high Black smoke: Air cleaner clogged Main jet too large or fallen off Starter plunger stuck open Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high Brown smoke: Main jet too small Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too low Air cleaner duct loose Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing
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I am short enough and ugly enough to succeed on my own. - Woody Allen |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Beserker biker woman
Forum Supporter
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Posts: 18,602
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Handling and/or Stability Unsatisfactory:
Handlebar hard to turn: Steering stem locknut too tight Bearing damaged Steering bearing lubrication inadequate Steering stem bent Tire air pressure too low Handlebar shakes or excessively vibrates: Tire worn Swing arm pivot bearing worn Rim warped, or not balanced Wheel bearing worn Handlebar mounting bolts loose Steering stem head bolt loose Handlebar pulls to one side: Frame bent Wheel misalignment Swing arm bent or twisted Steering maladjusted Front fork bent Right/left fork legs oil level unbalanced Shock absorption unsatisfactory: (Too hard) Front fork oil excessive Front fork oil viscosity too high Tire air pressure too high Front fork bent (Too soft) Front fork oil insufficient and/or leaking Front fork oil viscosity too low Front fork, rear shock absorber spring weak Rear shock absorber oil leaking
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I am short enough and ugly enough to succeed on my own. - Woody Allen |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Beserker biker woman
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Brake Doesn’t Hold:
Air in the brake line Pad or disc worn Brake fluid leak Disc warped Contaminated pad Brake fluid deteriorated Primary or secondary cup damaged Master cylinder scratched inside Battery Discharged: Battery faulty (e.g., plates sulphated, shorted through sedimentation, electrolyte level too low) Battery leads making poor contact Load excessive (e.g., bulb of excessive wattage) Ignition switch trouble Alternator trouble Wiring faulty Regulator/Rectifier trouble Battery Overcharged: Regulator/Rectifier trouble
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I am short enough and ugly enough to succeed on my own. - Woody Allen |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Can't find time to ride
BTK Expert
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Anchorage, AK
Posts: 631
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Holy cow Tina, that took some time to put together. Can't say I've experienced most of these things but will now be ready and know what to look for.
Thanks ![]()
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If you're not the lead dog the scenery never changes. 82 KZ 440 LTD Project 85 Vulcan 700 |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Beserker biker woman
Forum Supporter
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Posts: 18,602
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Quote:
But it did take me awhile to copy and paste. As you can see, I'm spending waaaaaaay to much time here. This was kind of a knee-jerk reaction to all the "help me" posts. I don't mind helping if I can, but some basic info on the problem would be nice. Apparently no one has looked at the sticky at the top of this page before they post.
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I am short enough and ugly enough to succeed on my own. - Woody Allen |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Formerly a Kaw owner
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Location: Asheboro, NC
Posts: 3,482
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Quote:
Q: What year bike do you have? A: I dunno. It's blue. That about sums it up sometimes....
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Russ On an foot-draggin' 07 Yamaha FJR |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 1
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I have a 2001 1500 Vulcan Classic FI. It has a 5 gal. tank (standard). on the way back from a road trip the yellow "low fuel light came on, didn't make it to a gas station. there was still 1.1 gallons left in the tank. i was told there is no reserve because an FI. can you tell me what's stopping the extra gallon from being used?
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#18 (permalink) |
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Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2
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i have a klf400b 4x4 and was wondering what year thay made this atv. also when i ride the atv i put oil in the crank case as i ride the bike it blows the oil out of the over flow tube is it a seal i am stumped can some one in lighten me it would greatly apresated thanks tyler.
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#19 (permalink) | |
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Beserker biker woman
Forum Supporter
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 18,602
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Quote:
Somewhere on the bottom of your frame is the VIN #. If you can find it, post it up and we'll help you figure out the year.
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I am short enough and ugly enough to succeed on my own. - Woody Allen |
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