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#21 (permalink) |
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Turtle Wax Taster
BTK Intermediate
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Harris, MO.
Posts: 164
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I only serviced one police bike that the Vallejo, CA. PD had. I remember the city mechanics thought they could do some work on it but screwed it up and after that I took care of it. So, it's hard to know what kind of maint. your bike has had. I sold my 900 and I don't have the book on it anymore, so I'm assuming your valves are adjusted. I'd pull the head off and have a look see in there. It will never start, much less run with the comp. you have. I only ever had one bad head gasket on a 900 or 1000 that came from the factory. Who knows, maybe someone had it apart and didn't assemble it right.. If needed pull the jugs off and examine the pistons. If you want to pull the valves apart and you don't want to purchase the Kaw valve spring compressor, you can make one using PVC pipe and a big c-clamp. JB weld the PVC pipe (cut to fit and use a dremel to cut out the slots so you can pull the valve retaining pieces out. If you need help email me.) I'd tell you to question your compression tester, but since it won't start at all, the readings you get are probably accurate. There might be a possibility that the cam timing is off but you probably should have noticed this when you checked the valves as the timing/cam marks would be off. But, my guess since none of the pistons have proper compression some body ran it with out oil and all the pistons are screwd up or scored. If you are lucky, it's just the headgasket. Just take the thing apart.
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#22 (permalink) | |
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Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 10
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Quote:
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#24 (permalink) |
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Forum Supporter
Forum Supporter
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welp, I got 18500 miles on myu 800 drifter, I figure ill check the valves next tire change, (about 28000 miles)
im sort of scared to do it, these engines seem impossible to really work on (chassis center in way and such) my ATV was no prize either to work on, but i adjusted those valves cause I did not care much if i screwed it up kenny
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2000 drifter 800 - lightly modded 2003 360 4x4 atv |
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#25 (permalink) |
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Finally Got Into First Gear
BTK Beginner
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Norway
Posts: 68
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my engine ticks like its threatening to spit the valves out - but i'm genuinly scared to open up the engine ... scared i wont get it to run after
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1981 Kawasaki KZ650SR |
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#27 (permalink) |
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Paul
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Fishers, IN
Posts: 8
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Looking for a little advise, after reading these threads regarding valve clearance.
#1) How or why might I have 2 valves (out of 4) one intake, one exhaust, slightly out of tolerance on the high side? My only guess is previous adjustment brought it out w/ new shim. I just bought it, 2006 KX 450F. #2) How much is too much? My exhaust is out on the high side by 0.03mm, spec is 0.17mm-0.22mm, actual is 0.25. Intake is out by less, 0.01mm or so. This seems very minimal to pull cams and measure shims and reorder shims, etc, etc. And these are out on the high side? Thanks, |
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#28 (permalink) |
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Old Skool rider
BTK Beginner
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 58
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Thanks for the info guys.
I'll be looking at my Concours this weekend!
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CDR Performance 317-445-3719-Robert Machine & Speed Shop-Domestic V-8 Turbo and ProCharged motors |
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#35 (permalink) |
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Obsessed by Z1's
BTK Expert
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Just to amplify ELR's information.
We get so many calls of people wrestling with bikes running rough. Many times these owners are attacking the carbs or ignition without even looking at the valve clearances. If you buy an older motorcycle, other than changing oil and filter, the first thing you should do is check the valve clearance. On some bikes like KZ550-KZ750 fours the clearnaces are often neglected as the adjustment shims are UNDER the valve bucket - this means the cams have to be removed to make valve lash changes... As ELR said - there's not too many situations where valve clearance increase (although a few bikes like bevel Ducati's do see this). Here's my quick list of things to do on a bike that's just been acquired. 1) change oil & filter 2) check valve clearance 3) check ignition timing (regap points & lube mechanical advancers) 4) replace any inline fuel filters 5) check spark plugs - regap or replace - make sure heat range is correct 6) sync carbs If you do use Seafoam or Yamaha's Ringfree in the fuel, recheck the valve clearances after you've run a tank full through the bike. The carbon removed off valves and seats can cause the clearances to change a fair amount. |
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#36 (permalink) |
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Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 1
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Hi folks, I'm a newbie to the site from the UK and a newbie in the land of Kawasaki Heavy Industries! I hope I can contribute to the site in the future and would be grateful if I could draw on your massive collective motorcycling knowledge!
I've got hold of a cheap ZX7R (20,000 miles on clock) and am a bit concerned as bike has not been cared for - I've got bills for the first crucial services but nothing for valve clearance checks - I took the head off last night and measured the clearances - three valves appear out of clearance - the valve that is most out of clearance is out by 0.04mm (intake valve measuring 0.13mm - tolerance range is 0.17mm - 0.25mm). Don't know if a valve this out of clearance has done damage or not? - I guess I'll have to do a compression test after reshimming to check for valve sealing issues? Thanks in advance for any advice. Kind regards, Sid. Last edited by Sid Throttle : 08-04-2008 at 07:52 PM. |
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#39 (permalink) |
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Ole650 rider
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: CT
Posts: 2
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Ive been reading your info on valve and the 650 is more complex to do as it requires removing the cams as the shims are under bucket, make sure you have a book handy to reinstall the cams properly. Also i worked for Yosh years ago and we found that if you go to the high side of the clearance it actually increased Compression from what i was told at the time it changes the valve overlap and or cam timing but that was years ago but again i saw it with my own eyes and it always worked Just my 2 cents
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#40 (permalink) | |
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Dazed and Confused
Extreme Forum Supporter
![]() ![]() Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: British Columbia Canada
Posts: 3,375
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Quote:
use a magnet to remove and replace the shims, less likely to drop them. Plug any holes with a rag(s) to stop parts falling down them. I have had a few bikes hauled to me over the years in pieces when a guy doing his valves at home dropped something inside the motor....could be a nut, shim, or whatever. I like making crap when its slow, or i need a stress break...so built a spring compressor that works on some bikes ( not all by any means) and then if i need to just change say 1 shim, can do it without popping the cams loose.
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Riding is good for ones soul. Riding amongst friends is even better. |
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