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Old 06-09-2008   #21 (permalink)
StarGate
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Diaphragms are expensive but you don't need to replace those unless they get torn or have a hole in them. They are somewhat fragile so treat them with care when you take them out to clean the carbs. I don't know what you're referring to when you say "plastic balance tube connecting the carbs together".
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Old 06-10-2008   #22 (permalink)
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Default Plastic Tubes

These are the tubes that connect the vacuum between carbs 1- 2 and 3-4 aparently it balances the vacume between them so that they can be tuned. thats just what i was told. with the diaphram i need to inspect them a little closer i saw one was mission some rubber in one of the creases but i dont know if it's leaking.
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Old 06-11-2008   #23 (permalink)
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Are you talking about the tube in red 92005B?
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Old 06-11-2008   #24 (permalink)
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i think the part is 92005 not 92005b. the Guy at the parts counter told me that that they were plastic. However the carbs look to be in good gondition, they still have most of the paint accept what i rubbed off when i was cleaning them. what does that tube in red go to. it apeared to me to be an overflow tube. the went between the airbox and the battery and dumped into nothing perhaps they go to something more important.
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Old 06-11-2008   #25 (permalink)
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The one in red is just a vent. The 92005 is the fuel line that connects to each carb. There is no vacuum that connects the carbs to each other. They each have their own separate vacuum. So I'm not sure if you misunderstood what they told you or what.
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Last edited by StarGate : 06-11-2008 at 07:16 PM.
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Old 06-11-2008   #26 (permalink)
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Default vacuum issues

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There is no vacuum that connects the carbs to each other. They each have their own separate vacuum.
humm interesting!?? so i have a vacuum line that goes to the #1 and the #4 carbs. i was informed that the vacuum travels between the carbs and balances the 4 carbs. which was why carb #2 and #3 was capped with rubber plugs. perhaps one line for the #2 and 3 carbs is missing all together. if that is the case then i will put splices in and activate the 2 non-vacuum carbs.
i hope i don't find that this bike was *******ized and made to look right.
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Old 06-11-2008   #27 (permalink)
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as i look it over, i see the vacuum runs the EGR valve. this vacuum may not necessarily have to be on all four carbs. the issue i am coming up against is that there is a large vacuum Leak somewhere. when i start the bike i can start it with the choke on but the rpm's hit 5000 when i open the throttle it sounds like i just opened a huge hole. now i am running this WITHOUT the air box hooked up to the carbs. could that be causing some failure? perhaps the air box creates back-pressure. i pulled the carbs off again to double check for obvious leaks. i was able to suck on the intake side and cup the aircleaner side and found nothing major some air creeping in through the overflow. so my only suspicion left is that the carbs are not sealing properly. what do you think?
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Old 06-12-2008   #28 (permalink)
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so i have a vacuum line that goes to the #1 and the #4 carbs. i was informed that the vacuum travels between the carbs and balances the 4 carbs.
Someone is jerking your chain. Most of the early 80's bikes had the same configuration with the smog valve setup. Mine included. I'd venture to guess that 90% + have been taken off thrown in the trash and the vacuum ports capped. The only reason the 2 lines were run to the T then to the valve was to operate the valve. I don't know who told you that "vacuum between the carbs balances them" crap but it's pure BS.

As for your problems, yes having the airbox off or the connectors not sealing good will affect the way the carbs perform. CV carbs work off of a pressure difference between the 2 sides of the diaphragm and the open/unrestricted air flow on the intake side messes with that. As for any other leaks, odds are that the rubber manifolds are hardened and have developed cracks. When you have the bike at idle take some spray carb cleaner and spray all around the manifolds. The flat surface that mates to the cylinder head is a common place for cracks to develop but not the only place. If you hear the rpm change while you are spraying you have found a leak. You can buy a new set of these so it's not a problem that can't be resolved.
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Old 06-13-2008   #29 (permalink)
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Update... sometimes i feel so lame. i re-installed the carbs and made sure they were sealed on the air Box. hooked up the vacuum lines. connected the fuel tank vacuum and all that. fired it up and it still ran like crap. my hunch this whole time was vacuum Loss on the diaphragms, and i suspected the EGR crankcase blow-by. turns out to be true. when i plugged the line going to it, this bike fired up like a drunk cowboy. purred like a kitten. I'm so dumb to over look something so obvious.

however this struggle goes on, now that it purrs like a kitten. I went to test ride it and it died when i went to pull out of the drive. it is not the switch because when i turned the bars it died and i lost all power. i straightened up the bars and lights come on. when i turn to the left no problems, when i turn to the right off. i wiggled wires under the cowling and would see some flashes but could not rule it to any Particular wire. I'll save that for tomorrow.
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Old 06-13-2008   #30 (permalink)
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I'm not sure what you are referring to when you say egr crankcase blow by. The egr/smog valve that some bikes had and the crankcase vent that they all have are different items. I guess it doesn't matter if you got it running though.
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Old 06-14-2008   #31 (permalink)
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well the Last updated on as for major issues. when i would turn the bars to the right the bike would stall completely. i removed the cowling and headlight with the bike running i would wiggle wires until i found the culprit. a wires on the ignition switch where there is a bracket to hold the wires was severed. being held only by insulation. which when turned to the right it broke contact. but i also found belew that there was another wire that was severed all together. I still have a flashing "warning" Light But i will find that when my book arrives. It rides nice. need wheel bearing Lube and chain lube. there is still a lumpy #4 cycender but it will have to do. stargate thanks for your help this has been great. i am glad that you could help.
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Old 06-15-2008   #32 (permalink)
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I'm glad you found one of my ramblings useful. Good luck with the rest of it. If any of what I said was helpful, you can return the favor by staying safe and enjoying the ride.
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